Detailed travel log -- Zuiderdam Inside Passage -- May 31 through June 7

Vancouver ----Well, it is finally here! Our glorious trip to Alaska has begun. After hours of plotting and planning, we are setting off on the adventure of a lifetime! I wanted to thank all the members of the Cruise critic community who shared valuable tips with me. I've enjoyed reading through millions of threads! Our cruise will be the first for us since Disney's Big Red Boat when the kids were barely teens. We chose to sail on the Zuiderdam doing the Inside Passage with stops in Juneau, Skagway, Glacier Bay, and Ketchikan.

Now on to what will become the Not so live review of our trip!!!

We had a power outage due to storms the night before we left which left us scrambling with flashlights to finalize packing and do a final walk through of the house. Somewhere around 11:00 after we had gone to bed to try and get some sleep, the lights did come back. My biggest fear was the alarm clock. Being the worry wart that I am, I set the alarm on my iPad as a back-up to our regular alarm clock now powered by the battery. At midnight the alarm went off, a fluke from the power outage but it did NOT go off at 3:30. Thanks to the iPad, we woke up as planned. I know I am obsessive compulsive, but having all my ducks in a row days in advance was a blessing when the power went out, and the back-up alarm was a blessing! My husband, Lou, took a break from teasing me about packing days in advance, and sorting through my folder with all our printed docs. If he had his way, we would be wearing one blue sock and one black sock that we mismatched in the dark and we would have been running to print stuff at the last minute!!

We left the house at 4:10 and drove to the train station. When the conductor yelled all aboard at 4:25, the butterflies in my stomach were dancing around like crazy. Check-in at the airport at 5:30 was a breeze. I had booked our flights to Vancouver with air miles and had just enough to upgrade us going out to First class. We were able to use the US air lounge while we waited for our flight. I savored every mouthful of the cup of coffee and looked in my purse for the hundredth time to make sure my passport was still there. We made our way to the gate and boarding started right on time at 6:45. We enjoyed the extra room in our seats and were feeling a little bit like We had won the lottery.

The Captain made numerous announcements about the loading of the luggage and we sat on the Tarmac til 7:30 waiting to taxi to the runway. We were assured that all lost time would be made up in the air. Our flight took us from Philadelphia to Phoenix with only a thirty five minute layover and then we continued to Vancouver.

When we landed in Phoenix, we did the airport dash from one terminal to the next, found our gate and had just enough time to visit the restroom before boarding at 9:45. We left right on time at 10:15. I couldn't stop wondering if my trusty maroon suitcase was in the cargo hold. We had a pleasant flight, the snow capped mountains out the window had me dreaming of Alaska!

We arrived in Vancouver at 1:30 or 4:30 Philly time. My stubborn husband finally reset his watch. The whole trip, I had to practice my math skills because he was being an aft hole (we have an aft cabin) and wouldn't reset his watch multiple times.

It took a half hour to clear Immigration and Customs. the lines looked so much worse than they really were. We had the option of taking the Sky train which seemed super easy or a cab. Since we were still feeling kind of like Bill and Amanda Gates after our First Class flying, we opted to take the cab.

We weren't sure how tired we would be, so our only plans for Vancouver were to take a False Creek ferry ride, visit Ganville Island, and visit a few brew pubs. The location of the Best Western Plus Downtown seemed perfect.

Our cab ride proved to not be as big a splurge as we thought. The Sky Train fare for prime time with the airport fee of $5 would have made it $9 per person. Our cab ride was $28 pre-tip. We were happy with our door to door service and the ride was only a half hour.

The Best Western exceeded our expectations. Our room was ready and waiting for us. We had booked through Amoma dot com and got an incredible rate of $118.90. We had pre-paid and presented our voucher (the one I printed before the power outage) and James assured us that he had a nice 10th floor room for us. There were no problems or hidden costs. Our room came with two free ferry tickets and a great walking map, and free wi-fi. James answered all our questions and we set off to find our room.

The room was immaculate and had a nice bird's eye view of the city. It was laid out nice with Two double beds, a microwave, coffee maker and supplies, a refrigerator, and an iPod dock.

We set off with our trusty map and enjoyed the glorious sunshine and 66 degree temperatures. By 3:30, we were chugging along in our ferry ready to explore.

We loved Granville Island. The atmosphere was electrifying. Tons of people were enjoying a glorious day. There were lots of unique shops, a farmers market, public market selling flowers to fresh seafood, musical entertainment and a myriad of places for food and drink. Our mission was to people watch and reward ourselves with some freshly brewed beers. Our first stop was The Granville Island Brewing Company. It took minutes to feel like we were regulars. The bartender was happy to welcome us to Vancouver. We had a flight of beers that let us sample seven ounces of six different beers that they brew. The beers were super cold and a reward after a long day of traveling to get here!

Our mission continued and we headed for Granville Island Hotel which is home to the Dockside Brewery. We continued our tradition of getting the sampler which had six seven ounce beers. We had a front row water view seat that let us enjoy a magnificent meltdown. Joggers ran in front of us and locals enjoyed beers and wine all around us. We toasted days gone by and what the future will bring. We decided it was time to start back as this is just the beginning! We stopped and picked up a 650 ml bottle of beer for the room. Made a quick perusal of the food court in the public market and decided to get a seafood sampler from Celine's.

We didn't need our map any longer to find our way to the ferry and back to the hotel. We pulled two chairs in front of the window and drank our beer and feasted on oysters, shrimp, scallops, squid, calamari and halibut. it was a delicious end to a delightful day! Vancouver has some great beers, fresh seafood and awesome people!

I was asleep by nine o'clock and slept like a baby dreaming of Alaska til 6:15 this morning!i

Embarkation --In preparation for our trip I spent hours and hours reading the Holland America boards. It helped me plan and gave me a hint of what was in store when It would finally be my turn to live the dream! I thank the entire community for your tips and guidance. I was so prepared with advance knowledge and was able to hit the ground running.

This trip was a bucket list adventure that I shared with my best friend and husband of forty years. I will enjoy my 60th birthday in a few months and it was an easy decision to celebrate by heading to Alaska on our second cruise ever! We had taken the kids on Disney's Big Red Boat over 30 years ago. So to say I was excited is an understatement for sure.

We had spent the night in Vancouver since we were flying from Philadelphia and I wasn't taking any chances on missing the boat. We woke up early due to the time change and just a wee bit of excitement. The hotel, Best Western Plus Downtown, offered a free shuttle to Canada Place at 10:00. It was a short ten minute ride and after dropping off a few Princess cruisers, we were handing our bags off to the stevedores. The lines at customs looked worse than they really were and we were standing at the HAL check-in desk after only thirty minutes. Our welcome packet included our stateroom keys and a map of the ship. We had booked aft cabin 5187 and turned down an upsell because we really wanted to experience life on board in that cabin. We were informed that boarding would begin at 11:30, so that meant we had an hour to wait. The time passed quickly, as I amused myself chatting with neighbors and snapping pictures, and studying the schematic of the ship. The waiting area isn't the most comfortable since you are sitting on metal chairs, but I looked at it as part of the total experience.

We didn't need to visit the table that was set up for declaring bottles of wine. We had the Signature Beverage cards as part of our package and figured that fifteen drinks a day would be more than we needed. My husband is primarily a beer drinker and I knew I would be able to find something to enjoy whenever I needed or wanted a cocktail.

As promised, boarding commenced at 11:30. People who needed assistance went first, then suite guests and then all the people like us! We were in the fourth row and we mooed a few times while walking up the gang plank. I marveled at how efficiently we were ushered onto the ship. Every HAL person we passed, welcomed us on board and asked if we needed any help finding our way. We walked the long hallway and opened our door for the first glimpse of our new home. I was so happy with our cabin. It was roomier than I expected and the verandah was perfect!! We had two loungers, two chairs, and two tables. It was perfect. Lou managed to stay out of my way while I snapped pictures of the cabin and our view. The air conditioner was cranking, the toilet was flushing, there was ice in our bucket -- Life is Good!

We had the Explore 4 promotion. Our signature beverage package cards were waiting on the bed along with an invitation to dine in the Pinnacle that night at 6:00 -- which worked for us! We figured our first dinner would be romantic and a good way to start our vacation. I stowed my valuables in the safe, grabbed my camera and set off to get acquainted with the beloved Zuiderdam.

We were hungry and decided to find the Lido dining room. Thanks to advice from Roger (Crew News), we knew to occupy a table and take turns getting our lunch. Crew News was kind enough to e-mail me countless tidbits of information which I dubbed my Rogerisms. The list was jam packed with info that kept even a novice HAL cruiser like me one step ahead of the crowd!

Lou set off to fill his plate while I activated our beverage cards. We had to give the server our room keys and beverage cards the first use but only needed the beverage cards for any subsequent ordering. There are six Alaskan Beers in bottles available: Alaskan Amber, Summer Ale, New Free Ride American Pale Ale, Alaskan White Ale, Icy Bay IPA, and Hopothermia Double IPA (priced between $5.25 and $6.25). The Summer Ale and Amber are available in draft also for $5.95 single or $19.99 pitcher. Buckets of beer (5 in a bucket) were priced $20-$22. Other beers we saw were Boddingtons, Guiness, Molson, Corona, Bud, Coors, Miller, Stella Artois, Amstel, Becks, Heinecken and Grolsch -- all priced under $6.95. Lou was one happy guy and looking forward to many tastes of Alaska. They had two non-alcoholic offerings Sharp's and Buckler for $3.95. There is a booklet with pages and pages of mixed drinks and fancy cocktails for $6.95 which all qualify as part of the SBP.

The Lido was pretty crowded but we were able to navigate and find lots of things pleasing to our tastebuds. Lou couldn't resist the pizza and enjoyed it enough to keep going back for more throughout the cruise. I loved the fried chicken and the tilapia but the menu changed each day so if you like something a lot be a bit of a piggy because chances are you won't see that entree again. There was always some sort of chicken, fish, pork and beef at the Bistro line. The Asian offerings varied each day and the made to order Italian dishes filled the air with enticing aromas. The deli had a sandwich of the day but you could order up your choice of meats and rolls and trimmings.

After lunch, we went to our cabin and at 1:15 found our luggage waiting for us. We spent a half hour looking in nooks and crannies to find secret places to store our belongings. There are two drawers at the bottom of the bed under the skirt. Drawers were also under the sofa. You can fit your suitcases under the bed and there are lots of hangers provided. I had brought a pop-up hamper that helped keep the room neat and a pop-up drawer that kept our desk top clear. I also brought a magnetic clip and kept our On Location Bulletin and invites handy right at the door.

Our first activity was meeting our Cruise Director Hamish for the ship tour. Hamish really made our trip special. He remembered our names and has a great sense of humor. By the end of the cruise we found ourselves enthusiastically finishing all good things with a WOO HOO! The tour was a fun way to meet our cruise companions and get a feel for where everything was.

We went to meet our On Location Guide Alana iin the Queen's Lounge. Her "Smooth Sailing Presentation" gave lots of tips about the ship and the ports we would be visiting. I recommend making time for these talks as they really helped us get to know the crew and be informed.

We returned to our cabin to get ready for the Muster Drill. It was pretty painless and luckily we knew NOT to wear our life jackets like some passengers. Our lifeboat crew did a great job and we were drilled and feeling safe in no time at all.

We went out on deck for a glorious sail away. The sun was shining brightly as we passed under Lion's Gate Bridge -- the HAL Cats were playing sail away songs, flashbulbs were flashing, laughter filled the air, and we watched the ever changing scenery pass in every direction. I had to pinch myself and make sure that this was real and I wasn't dreaming.

Lou had to pry me away from the railing so that we could get ready for our Pinnacle dinner! We showered and got fancy and arrived for what would be a culinary delight! We feasted on a grilled to perfection scallop compliments of our server while we perused the menu. We started our fine dining experience with Lobster bisque. Our waiter spooned chunks of lobster meat in the bowl and then poured a delicate broth over it. Next course, Dungeness crab cakes that were full of crab and no filler. My husband and I usually try to agree on two entrees that interest us and share them so we get more tastes. We shared a grilled shrimp and halibut for our surf and split the 23 ounce porterhouse steak for our turf -- cooked to a perfect medium. It was tender and delicious. We finished with Creme brûlée, chocolate lava cake, Irish coffee and Mexican coffee. Service impeccable and food that dazzled our taste buds and eyeballs. It all looked so pretty -- almost too pretty to eat -- almost!

We had checked sunset time --9:08. We headed to the Crow's nest for our bird's eye view. Mary is the guitar player in the evenings and she has an amazing voice -- I could hear Stevie Nix in her voice. She was quirky and accommodating and happy to take requests. We were mesmerized by the colors on the changing horizon. The sun sank into the water and I'm not ashamed to confess that I cried. The beauty of that moment is forever etched in my mind. I will never forget that first sunset!

There are so many entertainment options that our heads were spinning. Hamish had suggested going to the "Listen to the Music" Show, and he did not steer us wrong. We were able to get a taste of what entertainers would be with us throughout the week.

After the show, we went to the piano bar to listen to Jeremy. He played and encouraged singing along. We had a nightcap -- grabbed a to go drink and headed back to our room.

The stars were twinkling ever so brightly. I made a wish and said good night to the moon. My dreams tonight were filled with reliving a day I had waited my whole life for.

The end

Sea Day -- North to Alaska. Woke up for our first day at sea. The boat was rocking pretty good so we put on our sea bands and as a precaution, I took a Dramamine. The view from our aft balcony was of beautiful rolling white caps. I loved sitting out there in my own private oasis. I was nice and cozy in the robe provided by HAL. The sound of the sea was calming and the whir of the wake very relaxing. I could look down on the balconies below and view our neighbors but our balcony was completely covered and was great in the rain and afforded lots of privacy. Our neighbors below did smoke on occasion but I never smelled it and they were really careful with their ashes and butts.

We dressed casually for enjoying the decks and headed out to breakfast. Our cabin steward came and introduced himself to us. His name is Diding and he was observed the rest of the cruise always working hard but always pleasant. He worked around our times out of the cabin and kept our room in tip top shape. Small tasks were completed in timely fashion -- he made sure our refrigerator got emptied and brought fruit for our bowl. I particularly liked that our mail was always brought into the cabin for us. I asked for two On location bulletins that he always remembered to leave for us.

We went to the MDR for our first dining experience there. The room is really pretty and as a people watcher, there was plenty to watch! I found myself humming "Be our guest, be our guest, put our service to the test." Coffee cups were filled to the left, juice delivered to the right. Cakes and Danish, sweets galore passed in front of me. I tried the Spanish omelet and Lou went for eggs and bacon and sausage. The thing that I really enjoyed was the sounds of song birds chirping that was piped in. It was a nice way to wake up.

After breakfast, we went to check that everything was running smooth with our ship board account. Our expected $100 per person credit was there for our use. We were able to use the funds to cover our daily service charge which amounted to $11.50 per person per day. In one of his talks, Hamish explained that 35% goes to the cabin stewards, 35% goes to dining staff and the other 30% to all those working behind the scenes such as laundry, and kitchen personnel.

The way they worked the Signature Beverage Package was that they credited each card $735 to begin with which would cover fifteen $7.00 drinks each day for our seven day cruise. Every time we had a drink, the date, place drink was ordered and cost of drink was noted. They kept a running total for each card. We never exceeded fifteen drinks in a day. We did use the card for specialty coffee, bottles of water from the bar, and both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. The only problem we had was deciding what to order. There were plenty of bar staff members happy to get you a drink and although we tipped along the way, it is not expected as the card value includes a 15 percent gratuity. We were able to order drinks for each other -- two cards equals two drinks. We were always given a receipt when our card was returned to us. My husband was able to ask for beers that were unopened to carry back to the room and put them in the refrigerator.

Our first activity of the day was a cooking demonstration. One of the chefs, Mani, cooked Papardelle with Shrimp, cedar Planked Halibut with Shrimp Scampi which just so happened to be what I ordered the night before in the Pinnacle, and Creme Brûlée. It was fun watching Mani work his magic. The food and beverage events coordinator, Meredith, narrated and answered questions. We even got to taste the Creme brûlée and we were given recipe cards to take home. There were place settings set up for each dining room and the setting for LeCirque too. It was great entertainment and the Culinary Arts room is state of the arts and sponsored by Food and Wine magazine.

All that cooking, made us hungry and we headed to the Lido for lunch. People seemed to be using the hand sanitizers before entering all the dining areas. I tried the Asian station and enjoyed a noodle bowl with shrimp, chicken and beef and a bowl of Miso soup. Lou had them construct a hoagie at the deli. There was water and lemonade and coffee and tea available and servers walking around for bar drinks

We headed to the Crow's Nest to meet Colin and Dawn from our roll call. It was great to enjoy a drink with them and share a few stories and laughs. We would bump into each other throughout the cruise and it was quite nice to chat with them and compare notes.

We returned to our cabin for a power nap. We were still feeling the effects of the time change and we were keeping so busy. After our nap, the relaxing continued in the movie theatre where they were screening "Gravity". I was glad we arrived early as every seat was taken. We brought drinks in with us and sat in big comfy stadium style seats. There was even freshly popped popcorn in individual bags. Lots if people stopped in to grab popcorn to go.

After the movie, it was time to get ready for dinner. It was the first of two formal nights. Walking about everyone looked so pretty all gussied up. There were lines of people getting photos taken and chatter of happy cruisers filled the corridors.

We stopped in the Explorer's Lounge to listen to the beautiful music of Adagio. The piano and violin duo performed sophisticated classical music. They were very serious but the music was comforting. I noticed a few people were sleeping in comfy seats throughout the room.

We had "As you wish Dining", so we arrived at 7:15 and because we wanted a table for two, we waited a short ten minutes. People were dressed for the occasion and it was very festive. There were a few tuxedos, lots of suits and ties, and very few men with just dress shirts. The dining room was transformed with chair covers and beautiful flowers throughout. The escargot were scrumptious, and Alaskan crab legs were offered as an appetizer. Every course, the wait staff asked if you wanted more of a certain item. We both had the Beef Wellington. The beef was perfect but the pastry was a little soggy but we still licked our platters clean. We had tried the Proseco that was offered and it was just fine for our tastes. We finished dinner with Bailey's Irish Cream and coffee and headed to the Crow's Nest. Our dinners in the main dining room were never rushed. There was ample time in between courses and no rush to move you out after dinner was served. Our average time all week was about 90 minutes.

We did always finish with desert and coffee and replayed the day together.

We missed Captain Turner's Welcome Toast because we were enjoying our dinner at that time. We were able to view it on our stateroom TV the next morning when we were relaxing. I liked that you could play catchup by tuning in to the HAL Information channels.

One thing about Alaska cruises is you have plenty of daylight. We listened to Mary on the guitar and watched the world go by. The scenery from the Crow's Nest is the next best thing to being outside. The windows are floor to ceiling and the seating is super comfy. There are flowers on every table and a very attentive wait staff to fetch drinks for you.

I wished I could have created a clone for this trip. It is impossible to do everything on the program. So we tried hard to not be on a schedule but we carried our perforated On Location activities agenda with us. We would look at it through the day to see if there were any don't miss things coming up. The sunset time listed was 10:19 -- we had to miss it if we wanted to see the show.

The show "In Concert" featured the Zuiderdam Singers and Dancers. The talented young people were able to bring number one hits to life on the stage. When we entered the Vista Lounge each guest was offered a glass of champagne. Captain Turner wasn't there, but we still enjoyed toasting each other.

The shows averaged about an hour in length. When the show was done we had time to visit the piano bar and listen to Jeremy's last set. It was approaching midnight and I was afraid I might turn into a pumpkin so we decided to stroll the decks on the way back to our room. We went out to the balcony and said good night to the moon. The clock went back one hour tonight. We were happy to get an extra hour of sleep. It will help to be well-rested for our first port day in Juneau!

Juneau --We wanted to try the Lido for breakfast since we ate in the MDR the day before. Lou had pancakes, bacon and sausage and I had scrambled eggs, bacon and sausage. Breakfast was just okay. The food was lukewarm and the atmosphere was much more hectic with people scrambling for tables and long lines to get juice or coffee. We had brought insulated mugs with us, so we grabbed a coffee to go.

Our first stop was the excursion desk where we purchased tickets for the Mount Robert's tram. We came back and packed our gear bag for Juneau. We had a back pack that always had an umbrella, small hand towel for drying and plastic bags for keeping cameras dry in case of a storm. We were going to follow advice and dress in layers. The backpack also was an easy place to store peeled away layers.

We attended On Location Guide Alana's lecture entitled "Feathers, Fins and Furs". The slide presentation was informative and got us excited visualizing all the creatures native to Alaska. Alana answered any questions and was always on the gangway handing out maps or giving directions. She was always interested in hearing what you did and what you saw.

It was exciting being outside and watching the sail into Juneau. We had a Coast Guard escort. We were docked at AJ dock which is about a mile outside of town.

We grabbed a quick lunch in the Lido. Lou made a hoagie and I had an Asian noodle bowl with chicken. It was a quick bite before going ashore. We were in the first wave of people getting off and it took about ten minutes to disembark. Every time you get off the ship they scan your cabin key so it's important to carry it with you. it took about ten minutes to disembark with the crowd.

Although we could have walked to town, it was easier to purchase a $3 per person pass that was good for riding the shuttle bus all day. You just pay at the shuttle kiosk and away you go. The bus drops you outside the visitor center right next to the tram. We wandered over and were happy to find we had paid $1.00 less each for our tickets to the tram on the ship. The cost was $31.00 per person. It was super cloudy so we decided to wait and ride later with the hope for clearer skies.

There are booths set up selling tickets for the shuttle to Mendenhall Glacier. They run about every 30 minutes. Our wait was only ten minutes. The tickets cost $20 roundtrip per person. Your driver will point out things during the twenty minute ride. He gave history facts and was a genuinely nice person. I was happy we had the same driver on the way back. When he was done answering questions, he shared some stories about local life in a humorous manner. Joe dropped us off right across from the park entrance and showed us where to get the bus back.

We paid $3 each to visit the National Park Service center. there was a beautiful 15 minute movie, "Landscape of Change". Ranger talks, a chunk of ice you could touch, interactive exhibits and bear and goat furs helped us learn a lot about the glacier. It had started raining really hard so we appreciated the indoor viewing and photography areas.

We put on our rain gear and hiked the photo point trail. We did not walk to Nugget Falls but still had good views of it. It is important to have rain gear. There are lots of people and it is hard to navigate with umbrellas. I just put on my rain coat and pulled up the hood. I was dry and out enjoying authentic rainforest weather. We enjoyed the glacier for a little over two hours and then headed back to town. On the way back, the sun came out, we saw a rainbow and the day got warm enough to peel a few layers.

At Mount Roberts, we looked up and could see the top so we headed up. The views were spectacular. The trails were easy to navigate and offered some beautiful photo ops. Lady Bsltimore, the resident eagle is amazing. There was a nest that you can climb in. The movie, "Seeing

Daylight" chronicles the Tlingit way of life. The Alaskan string band, a family group played a variety of music for our enjoyment. I was glad that we were able to have sunshine while we were at the top.

We still had plenty of port time to follow a walking tour and stop at the Red Dog Saloon. We shopped for our grandchildren along Franklin Street. We were getting tired and hungry so we decided to head back to the ship. The shuttle bus back was easy to board. We had to show photo ID and our cabin key to get back on the ship. All our bags went through an x-ray scanner.

We showered and dressed in our smart casual outfits and headed to the MDR. Tonight, I fell in love -- Not just with the food but our wonderful servers Heru and Sumerta. We had a nice table and Heru and Sumerta were so welcoming and enjoyable. They guided our menu choices and gave us service with a smile. We feasted on crab fritters and smoked salmon and mackerel. We tried Potato soup. We shared Seafood salad with shrimp and scallops and Scallops and Manilla clams with pasta. The meal was outstanding. We finished with the celebrated bread pudding and Spanish coffee. On the way out, we reserved our same table for the rest of the cruise with our new friends.

We were just in time for sail away in the Crow's Nest. Mary greeted us by name and played some sailing themed songs. It had been a fantastic day in Juneau.

Ash was hosting request night in the Northern Lights Disco. We dusted off some of our old moves and danced til the magic hour. We were back in our cabin saying goodnight to the moon by midnight. I had to pinch myself to make sure this was not a dream!

Skagway --Woke up today and we were already docked in Skagway. We headed to the Lido for breakfast. We went to the omelet station and ordered our eggs cooked just the way we wanted them. We had some V-8 and coffee and were fueled up for our day exploring Skagway.

Klondike Gold Rush National Park office is located at 2nd and Broadway. Whenever we travel, I love to take ranger led walks and talks. The Skagway office offers a walk at 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 2:00, and 3:00. They give out a limited number of tickets for each session. We arrived early enough to secure a ticket for the 9:00 talk. The ranger led us to the Mascot Saloon, past the Golden North Hotel and the Arctic Brotherhood Hall, we stopped at Jeff Smith's Parlor, and the Moore Cabin. Her talk was rich in the history that surrounded the gold rush. The session to covered four blocks of the historic district and lasted 50 minutes. When the tour ended, we doubled back and completed our own walk through town. We shopped in a few of the stores before heading back to the ship for lunch. We ate in the Lido but once again it proved hit or miss. The Stromboli was just okay and the ribs were outright horrible.

I had booked a White Pass Summit Excursion with Chilkoot tours after reading lots of good reviews on the Alaska boards. I really liked the idea of taking the bus one way with stops and the train the other way. We met our guide Kevin at the end of the gangway just past security. He informed us that my husband and I would be the only passengers up but a full van back down. So off we went with our private tour. our stops included: Pitchfork falls, the Tormented Vally, Bridal Veil Falls, William Moore Bridge, the White Pass Trail of '98, and the Welcome to Alaska sign. We were off and on the van in the rain. We were ahead of schedule when we crossed the border, so Kevin asked if we wanted to look for a bear. Low and behold, he knew where to look and we saw a black beer feasting on dandelions along the tracks. It was amazing! We got to the station in time to watch the train pull in. Kevin got us situated on the right side going down for optimum viewing. We warmed ourselves by the wood burning stove and dried out a big. As we pulled out of the station, the sun came out and we enjoyed a glorious ride down the mountain in perfect viewing weather. Our total tour lasted four hours and cost $126.00 per person before tip.

We got back and went directly to Explieations Cafe for a couple signature coffees. Mary was playing in the Crow's Nest. So, we chatted a bit and she looked through my pictures. We were asked to leave the Crow's nest because they were hosting a private party. I grumpily gave up my window seat and we headed back to the room to get ready for our dinner with Heru and Sumerta at our reserved table.

Once again, our dinner crew did an amazing job welcoming us by name, keeping our wine filled, and suggesting the best items on the menu. We had shrimp cocktail, smoked salmon, and sausage soup for starters. We shared crab cakes and beef rouladen. Heru chose a plate of cheese for us -- the Stilton was delicious. We enjoyed the cheese plate with a couple of glasses of Proseco.

We arrived in the Vista lounge in time for the "Stage and Screen" done by the Zuiderdam singers and dancers. the costumes were designed by Bob Mackie. It was really enjoyable.

We stopped in the Northern Lights Disco for Country night. I know how to do a few line dances but Lou doesn't so we just enjoyed watching all the people enjoying the dance floor.

Country hour ended and we went back to our cabin to get a good night's sleep in preparation for Glacier Bay Day.

Skagway was a fun and interesting stop. I learned a lot and have a new appreciation for the dreamers who came tomAlaska in hopes of striking it rich.

Scenic Cruising in Glacier Bay -- I kept peeking outside because I was so excited. There was something special about standing on my private balcony waiting for the sunrise and my first glimpses of Glacier Bay. This was my chance to see all that is possible in nature. Since this is a National Park, we were lucky to have a Park Ranger and a Huna Cultural Interpreter join us for our cruising in Glacier Bay.

I woke my sleepyhead husband at 6:45. We swung by the the Lido buffet and grabbed the nicely wrapped bacon, egg and cheese biscuits and a cup of coffee to go. We headed for the Crow's Nest to meet our special guests. The Ranger and Huna guide gave us a hint of the wonders that we were about to experience.

We were extremely blessed to have plenty of sunshine that magnified the beauty that surrounded us. We wanted to spend the first portion of the journey in the solitude of our balcony. We had our TV channel set to 43 so that we could hear the commentary whenever we stepped inside. Our eyes peered through binoculars and our fingers stayed busy pressing the shutter button on our cameras. At 8:00, we were passing by Gloomy Knob checking every movement in hopes of seeing some mountain goats climbing on the rocks. There is a thrill beyond compare when you get the chance to see wild life in their homes.

Our first glacier sighting was the Lamplugh Glacier. I hugged my husband feeling like a giddy teenager. This was a moment that I had dreamed about my whole life. The beauty I witnessed was just a preview of what was to come. John Hopkins Glacier was magnificent. The sunlight bounced off the glacier and the water mirrored the image. It was a sight to behold. The jagged peaks provided a postcard perfect scene.

Holland America has a tradition of serving pea soup on the outside decks. We weren't really hungry but wanted to experience the tradition. The decks were a bevy of activity. Amateur and professional photographers snapped pictures in every open space. We decided that we would join our fellow cruisers and wander the decks to savor every bit of the breathtaking gift from Mother Nature.

At Marjerie Glacier, the Captain stopped the ship so that we could stand and be mesmerized by her beauty with the hope of witnessing the glacier calving. This is a sight to behold. Sapphire hued chunks of iced broke off the face of the glacier into the sea. The sound goes right through your body. It is unlike anything you have ever experienced before. It was my best oooh aaah moment. The Captain slowly turned the ship so that everyone had a chance to take in the splendor that was Marjerie.

As the ship turned, we decided our eyes needed a break from feasting and it was time to feed our bellies. We went to the Dive-In restaurant and ordered a few gourmet burgers to accompany our Alaskan brews. I found myself humming "Cheeseburger in Paradise" as I munched on my delicious Gouda burger.

Since we were in an aft cabin, we went back to our cabin to experience the sail through Tar Inlet and keep the glacier in our rear view mirror for as long as pissible. When the Ship approached South Marble Island, we headed to the Crow's Nest to search for wildlife. We were fortunate to be sitting near two kids who had eyes like an eagle. With our spotters working at peak performance, we were able to see one whale, lots of otters and a whole island of sea lions.

At 3:30, the rangers prepared to leave the ship. It was fun watching them leave and enthusiastically wave to a satisfied crowd of happy gawkers.

We went to the sea view bar and grabbed a cocktail as we passed into North Inian Pass.

I was exhausted after the most peaceful day in my life. It had truly been the best day ever. My senses were on overload and it was time to retreat to my cabin for a power nap.

Tonight, is the second formal night. It seems only fitting that the beauty of the day should continue into the night. We got glamorous and headed to the MDR. The meal was festive and delicious -- Shrimp cocktail, Caesar Salad, Five Onion Soup, Surf and Turf, Hot Molten Cake and Spanish Coffee.

We went to see the show Sean O'Shea who provided music, impressions, and comedy that I didn't quite get. I guess Glacier Bay was a hard act to follow.

We went to the Sports bar and grabbed cocktails to take back to our cabin. We stood on our balcony and said goodnight to the moon. I laid in bed that night and thanked God for a day of magnificent splendor that will forever be etched in my heart and mind.

Enjoying your trip report.

Keith

Looking forward to our trip and your posting only heightens the enthusiasm. Great job!

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Really enjoy your writing style.

Thanks for taking us along on your cruise.

And thanks for adding your link to the 2014 Trip Report List !

Thanks for writing your trip report! Our Alaskan cruise is in 12 days and we couldn't be more excited! Love reading all of the trip reports, June 23rd can't get here quick enough...

BTW, we're practically neighbors. My wife and I live in NE Philly (Mayfair) and my brother lives up the road from you in Abington. I liked the hoagie references! Too bad they don't have scrapple or TastyKakes on board...

Jim

Thanks for writing your trip report! Our Alaskan cruise is in 12 days and we couldn't be more excited! Love reading all of the trip reports, June 23rd can't get here quick enough...

 

BTW, we're practically neighbors. My wife and I live in NE Philly (Mayfair) and my brother lives up the road from you in Abington. I liked the hoagie references! Too bad they don't have scrapple or TastyKakes on board...

 

Jim

It's a small world -- we moved from Juniata a few years ago. Loved growing up in the city but the lure of our grandkids brought us to Glenside. now, enjoying retirement in Abington Township!! I'm working on Ketchikan next.

Ketchikan -- After an exhilarating day in Glacier Bay, we slept like babies. We relaxed and took our time getting ready for our day in Ketchikan.

We went to the MDR and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. I had the Eggs Benedict with V8 and coffee. Lou chose the Danish Breakfast which had eggs, Gouda cheese and ham on thick bread with a side of Bangers, V8, and coffee. We finished our breakfast and went back to our room to experience our arrival in Ketchikan. It was a treat to see the quaint little town pop into view on the horizon.

We were pleasantly surprised to have the bluest skies welcoming us and temperatures that allowed us to walk around in T-shirts and Jeans. I loved the looks of the walking tour map and we decided to skip any excursions and enjoy the town at a leisurely pace.

As we passed under the "Welcome to Ketchikan" arch, we immediately felt like this lively little town was embracing us with the promise of a good day ahead. We followed our map up Mission Street past St. John's Episcopal Church, the oldest standing church in Ketchikan. In Whale Park, we posed for a picture at the Billingsley clock. The replica of the Chief Johnson totem pole was colorful and rose into the sky with the mountains in the background.

The Thomas Basin is a small boat marina and there was a bevy of activity as fishing boats and yachts navigated the waters. On the far side of the basin, a wood plank street built over the water contained many historic buildings which were once part of the New England Fish Company.

The trail along the Ketchikan Creek provided a peaceful stroll with the sounds of waterfalls and the rolling clear water. Outside the Totem Heritage Center is a massive totem with very detailed carvings. At the City Park, we found a quiet bench and rested for a few minutes. The park contains pretty ponds surrounded by flowers and fountains.

Our rested legs carried us down Deermount Avenue past St. Elizabeth's Church which is now the Ketchikan Mortuary. We passed through the entrance to Creek Street. The former red-light district is now occupied by restaurants and shops all housed in historic buildings. Dolly's house preserves memorabilia from Ketchikan's most successful madam. Cape Fox Lodge Funicular ($2) whisked us up the hill for a nice view of the harbor. As we made our way back, we stopped at the footbridge where we could observe the uniqueness of Creek Street perched on pilings over the stream.

We needed a break and headed down Dock Street and returned to the ship for a late lunch. We had really worked up an appetite, so our Mahi Mahi, Pot Roast and chicken were extra delicious.

Our bellies were full and we were ready for more exploring. We walked along Water Street towards Newtown. The waterfront promenade allowed us to get up close to the various ships in port that day. We doubled back and walked through the tunnel. We shopped in Tongrass Trading Company and found gifts for our grandchildren. After a satisfying day experiencing the charm of Ketchikan, we called it a day and returned to the Zuiderdam.

The Ocean Bar was the perfect place to reward ourselves with a few cocktails before heading to the movie theatre for a screening of "Jack Ryan, Shadow Recruit". We really enjoyed the movie.

The Crow's Nest was our venue of choice for the sailaway from Ketchikan. Our guitarist, Mary was providing some soothing entertainment but once again the room was going to be used for a private party and everyone was asked to leave. We watched Ketchikan's charming little hamlet disappear on the horizon from the Lido Bar.

We retreated to our cabin and got ready for dinner in the MDR. Lou had the French Onion Soup and I enjoyed my bowl of Italian Wedding soup. We shared an anti pasta plate and buffalo mozzarella plate before our entrees arrived. As is our habit, we created a surf and turf by splitting the Sirloin steak braised in Sam Adam's lager and corn flake crusted rainbow trout. Our server had gotten to know our habits during the week and paced our wine and courses perfectly. Lou had to try his first ever pinched pear and I shared my cheese plate with him.

We checked the time and found the nearest deck to watch the sun set after an exhilarating day of exploring.

Although we were tired, we didn't want to miss "Recycled Percussion". As you enter the theatre you are given a drumstick, an instrument and assigned to a team. The group encouraged us to let our inner rock star loose. Whether playing on buckets, ladders, grinders or sinks, Recycled Percussion’s boundless energy and creativity blew us away. We were lucky to be able to sail with these winners of "America's got Talent."

The contagious energy from the show inspired us to look for Regina and the HALcats in the Queen's lounge while we sipped on a nightcap.

We returned to our cabin stepped out on the balcony and said goodnight to the moon. I sank into bed sure that I would dream the night away. However, we were rudely awakened at 3:30 am by the fire alarm. There was a report of smoke in the aft stairwell -- hey, I'm in an aft cabin. We listened to Captain Turner's reassuring voice as he kept us informed throughout the investigation and resolution of the problem. There had been a malfunction with a ventilation fan and at 4:00 we were told to go back to sleep. Yes, it had been quite an exciting day!

Sailing to Vancouver -- as they say, "All good things come to an end". Today, will be our last full day on the beautiful MS Zuiderdam. We woke up at 8:00 wondering if the overnight alarm was a dream. We decided not to dilly dally since we wanted to enjoy our last day at sea to the maximum.

Our delicious breakfast would be enjoyed in the MDR. Lou enjoyed his Belgium waffles with strawberries and whipped cream and declared this was the best breakfast of the cruise. I also really enjoyed my "As you wish" omelet with all my favorite ingredients. We shared some bangers, a treat we don't get at home. It was nice to savor a cup of coffee and gaze out the window at the endless horizon.

After breakfast we headed for the great outdoors and wandered the nearly empty decks. Most people were sleeping in after the alarm scare. We wandered the ship taking photos of all the venues that had provided the memories that will last the rest of our lives. Merideth, the culinary arts hostess was having a recipe exchange. I was delighted to take home the secrets to many of the dishes we sampled on board. It will be fun to try and recreate these delicacies once we are home.

The Lido Pool deck smelled amazingly different than any other day. There was a salmon bake at sea! People carried plates heaped with grilled salmon and steamed mussels and clams. The bar staff featured all the Alaskan beers both in bottles and on draft. We proceeded to stuff ourselves fearing the damage all this feasting had done to our waistline. Fear not, Planet Fitness, you will be seeing way more of us!!!

On Location hostess, Alana, presented "Gold Rush Dreams". The lecture provided a great historical summation of the places we had visited. We followed our own dream to a place many had visited before us in hopes of fulfilling their dreams.

There was an unwelcome task waiting in our stateroom, packing to go home. I collected most of my clothes and neatly folded them and put them in the suitcase. As I placed each item in my bag, I couldn't help thinking about where I was and what I was doing when I wore that outfit. Simple clothes had new memories attached to them. Lou used the time to sneak in a catnap. I warned him that he better make time to pack. He lives by the motto, "why do today, what you can put off til tomorrow." The long honey-do list he has back home is a testament to this philosophy!

My work was done and I started to drag Lou's suitcase to the bed. He opened an eye and declared happy hour wasn't packing time. He would do it later. This was our last chance to enjoy -- no argument from me. So off we went.

We barely had time to get situated in the Crow's Nest when a private party chased us to the Ocean Bar to finish our cocktails. We got there in time to sit in on a Mixology Class. We listened in while amateur bartenders learned how to prepare a few of the exotic cocktails of the week. Meredith, our culinary Arts hostess came over to talk with us. We asked lots of questions about the Signature Beverage Package and other things we wondered about and she chatted with us. She was heading to the Pinnacle Bar for Sip and Savor so we followed along with her. Glasses of select wines were available for $4.00 and were paired with a shrimp bruschetta.

We went back to the Crow's Nest since Mary was scheduled to play her guitar for pre-dinner listening pleasure. It was a great place to be as a special surprise awaited us. Sailor Jerry Higginson, a self-appointed Ambassador raced his power boat to keep pace with the ship. Jerry keeps the cruise schedules and when they arrive near his home at Alert Bay, he greets them. We scrambled to an open deck in time to hear this talented trumpeter play "O, Canada" and "The Star-Spangled Banner".

The haunting sounds of the trumpet wafting across the water brought a tear to my eye. I looked around and realized this simple act of kindness by a lone trumpeter summed up the camaraderie I had felt while sailing on this magnificent voyage.

After Jerry's entertainment, it seemed fitting that the theme in the MDR for the evening was "International Night". Lou had Guiso Soup (Argentinian soup) and I had Scandinavian Seafood Chowder. We shared Vietnamese Spring Rolls and Brie in Phyllo with apple chutney. Our salad course was a ****ake Salad with Sesame Ginger dressing. We created surf and turf to share with Shrimp Provençal and Bourbon Glazed Beef with portobello mushrooms. We shared a slice of Big Apple Cheesecake.

We realized this would be our last dinner with Heru and Sumerta and in an effort to prolong our time with them we had a cheese plate and some Proseco. We took pictures of our new friends and shared a few last laughs and stories. They seemed genuinely grateful for our extra gratuity.

Lou had not packed yet, so it was back to the cabin we went. I offered to help but Lou said he had it under control. I laid on the bed and low and behold I fell asleep. I woke up to some pretty loud snoring. I fumbled for my glasses so I could check on the time, and tripped over a pile of clothes and shoes. I made my way through the rubble and saw it was 2:00 a.m. YIKES -- our bags were supposed to be in the hallway by 1:00. I wheeled my suitcase into the completely empty corridor to make some room, gently nudged Lou awake HaHa and watched Merlin the Magician magically make piles disappear into the suitcase. It was the quickest pack, I had ever witnessed.

I laid in bed praying the night elf would come get our bags and we would not be departing the ship wearing HAL bathrobes! Good night moon wherever you are!

Last installment

Woke up at 7:00 and ran to the door. Our luggage was gone! Now, I had to hope that it would be on the dock waiting for us and not in a naughty room somewhere. Luckily, in the frenzy of the night before, what needed to be packed was, and the clothes we needed to wear home were still in our cabin! We did have our carry-on luggage a little overstuffed with lots of last minute items.

We were in the Pink 2 group to disembark at 9:00 so had plenty of time to go to breakfast in the MDR. It was quieter than usual as lots of groups had begun to disembark as early as 7:00. I had a Denver omelet made with three cheeses, peppers, onions, and ham. Lou had two eggs easy over with rye toast, bacon and hash browns. We both had V8 and coffee. We looked out the window, listened to those piped in song birds and realized this was that bitter sweet moment when you realize the most wonderful vacation ever was coming to an end.

We bid adieu to the wonderful wait staff who took good care of us throughout the week. I stopped in the doorway and took one more look at the MDR. We walked along the corridors that we had traversed time and again during our cruise. It always seems like just when you start to really know where everything is, it is time to go home!

We wanted to spend our last moments on board in our cabin. Our steward came by to wish us a safe journey. I was glad we could give the ninja his envelope in person and express our thanks for keeping us comfortable all week.

Too soon, our number was called. I took one more walk onto our balcony. Diding had stripped the bed and made it up for the next guests, so when we moved into the hallway and glanced back, it was like a flashback to a week ago. We walked down the long hallway, boarded the elevator, made our way to the scanning station, and left the Zuiderdam for our last time.

There was a bevy of activity as items were being loaded onto the ship in preparation of the next voyage. We walked into the terminal and saw our suitcases waiting for us. Our Holland America cruise was officially over. Goodbye, Zuiderdam, thanks for the memories.

Nice review!

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Thanks for taking the time to do a review.

Goodbye, Zuiderdam, thanks for the memories.

Just booked Vancouver R/T for May 2015. It's a cool, rainy day here, perfect for doing a little research for our own adventure. Your report pretty much covers it all! It was entertaining, extremely informative and so well written I was actually sad FOR and WITH you when it got down to that last paragraph! :o Thanks for your report!!

Thank you for posting such an enjoyable and comprehensive report. We are scheduled on this same shop the last week of Alaska's season on 9/20. I'm even more excited after reading your posts!

Very nice travel log. Well done.

Keith

Thank you for a very interesting, and easy to read, detailed trip report. Enjoyed it very much.

We are going to Alaska next year. I was looking at the Best Western Plus in Vancouver. I'm glad you liked it. I'm going to book that hotel.

P.S. I'm originally from Reading, PA and have family in Abbington.

Just booked Vancouver R/T for May 2015. It's a cool, rainy day here, perfect for doing a little research for our own adventure. Your report pretty much covers it all! It was entertaining, extremely informative and so well written I was actually sad FOR and WITH you when it got down to that last paragraph! :o Thanks for your report!!

If you booked the Noordam the first two weeks of May, I encourage you to join your roll call.

If you booked the Noordam the first two weeks of May, I encourage you to join your roll call.

Thanks, Crew, but I'll be on the Volendam 5/27/15. BTW… LOVE your site and thanks so much for sharing! :)