Spirit from Valpo to BA January 2010 -- advice?

[seabournfan]

Hi --

 

We are experienced Seabourn passengers taking a new cruise (for us) -- Valporaiso to Buenos Aires on the Spirit, departing Jan. 23. Any advice on weather, packing, excursions?

 

Hoping to encounter past cruising friends, chiefly from east to west crossings on Legend the past 4 years.

 

Laurie

[wripro]

Be sure to pack some warm clothing because the weather gets much cooler as you go South.

[seabournfan]

Thanks ... pretty much what I thought. Layers will work best, I guess. I'm thinking hot and humid in Santiago for the couple of days we'll be there and then progressively cooler.

 

If you've gone, which of the shore excursions did you enjoy?

 

And how rough did it get around the horn? We've had people tells us it's horrible, but we're adventuresome and have endured rough transatlantic seas, especially on the 2008 Legend crossing a couple of days out of Florida. Can't imagine it would be bad on this cruise for very long.

 

We spent a week in Buenos Aires a few years ago and are looking forward to seeing that beautiful city again.

[jagi]

Read Granny Lorr's travelogue on cruise critic. She did the full round trip from Ft. Lauderdale to Ft. Lauderdale.

 

I was on the same trip. That year, we never made it around the horn. I have never encountered such rough seas and I've sailed a lot--including across the South Pacific. My friends were on the same trip the next year and the sea was totally smooth. You can never tell. It is a fantastic cruise, however. You should go.

 

 

[Host Dan]

I agree with Jagi, go ahead and do the voyage around the horn. I was lucky, experiencing calm seas...

 

Host Dan

[Observer]

Read Granny Lorr's travelogue on cruise critic. She did the full round trip from Ft. Lauderdale to Ft. Lauderdale.

 

I was on the same trip. That year, we never made it around the horn. I have never encountered such rough seas and I've sailed a lot--including across the South Pacific. My friends were on the same trip the next year and the sea was totally smooth. You can never tell. It is a fantastic cruise, however. You should go.

 

 

 

 

 

Could you provide a more precise reference to the travelogue? I can't find it. Thanks.

[jagi]

Go to "Search Forum", type in Granny Lorr, find her Baltic adventures post, look down the left hand corner and select the 2008 adventure-South American cruise. Good luck.

[seabournfan]

Thanks so much, Jagi. Granny Lorr's posts were very helpful, especially for shore excursion advice.

 

We are definitely looking forward to this cruise.

[westmount]

The trip is fantastic, and save for a few days on the way to BA the weather was great. If you are an active couple, try the canoe trip, the hiking in the mountains, and get out and around whenever you can. All in all, we went went from SA to Rio in 2008, and there was nothing bad to be said. I remember we rescued a few fisherman stranded on their boat in the middle of nowhere, a Seabourn moment, but honestly, 200 passengers for 24 days makes for a lot of friends and a great time, have fun.

Can't wait for HK to Dubai.

Westmount

[seabournfan]

Thank you, Westmount. We are thinking that after South America, our next Seabourn cruise will be fall of 2010 from Rome to Dubai.

 

Back to South America -- how cold (and wet) did it get? I'm thinking about packing for a cruise that leaves Santiago in the height of summer and hits winter within several days. BA will be warm too. We spent a week there several years ago (in their winter) and loved the city, so are looking forward to seeing it again.

 

But any packing advice you can offer will be most appreciated. Thanks!

 

Laurie

[Keith1010]

Hi --

 

We are experienced Seabourn passengers taking a new cruise (for us) -- Valporaiso to Buenos Aires on the Spirit, departing Jan. 23. Any advice on weather, packing, excursions?

 

Hoping to encounter past cruising friends, chiefly from east to west crossings on Legend the past 4 years.

 

Laurie

 

Laurie, I did this voyage on the Pride a few years ago. I have also done this on the Crystal Serenity.

 

A few comments;

 

Check the weather for Santiago a few days before you go as just like anywhere weather can range. When we were there it was in the 80's and not humid. Of course, it is summer so it could be warmer.

 

It will not only be cool as you sail south but very windy. If you do excursions such as the one in Punta Arenas to Ottway Bay which I highly recommend to see the penguins dress very warmly for that. I am talking about a hat, scarf, gloves, jacket and fleece or jacket and sweater and pants that will keep you warm.

 

Buenos Aires will likely be quite warm and probably wamer than Valparaiso/Santiago.

 

It is a wonderful cruise. The scenery is breathtaking.

 

The odds say it will be quite rough as you go around the Horn but one never knows. And the weather can change very rapidly. On our Seabourn cruise they had a lottery to select passengers who would go in a Zodiac out to the cape and up until a few hours before they were to go it looked promising. About one in three times they got to go. Well, in a blink of an eye the weather went from beautiful to quite bad and the zodiac was canceled and we had quite choppy weather for about 12 hours. The next time I was there the weather was quite good. But be prepared for rough weather. If you are prone to getting seasick then bring items to remedy the situation. And I would take it pro-actively a few hours before you go around the horn.

 

We took some very nice excursions. In Buenos Aires try to see the Tango show. During the day take a tour of the city and be sure to see the La Recoleta Cemetery.

 

In Punta Arenas consider going to Otway Bay to see the Penguins. You are there at the perfect time.

 

If you are considering others please let me know.

 

You may know this already but leave your jewelry on board the ship and if on a pre or post cruise for sure leave it all in the hotel. We felt safe in all of the ports of call. The places to watch out the most were in Santiago and particularly in Buenos Aires. I would say this about many areas around the world and think the world of South America but I highly recommend to keep valuables on the ship.

 

Keith

[seabournfan]

Keith --

 

Thanks for the specifics on clothing. That's what I was really wondering -- HOW cold? I thought it was as you say, so now will really plan that packing.

 

We have spent time in BA and couldn't agree more about the jewelry/valuable advice there and in Santiago. And Le Recoleta and the tango show are amazing.

 

Appreciate your advice ... you're obviously a seasoned cruiser. Have a wonderful time wherever you're off to next.

 

Laurie

[marazul]

Seabournfan,

 

I was on the Valpo-BA cruise on the Pride this January. It was windy until we got to Cape Horn. The ship anchored in front of the lighthouse and the weather was perfect!! Sunny, calm, even warmish. Passengers were not allowed to go ashore, but the ship purser did go and had all our passports stamped with the two-page Cape Horn stamp. We made up for it by enjoying caviar and champagne on the upstairs longe (I think it has been renamed the Midnight Lounge) while enjoying the view. We were there for about 4 hours. Some passengers went on the whirlpools. So, don't despair - you could get lucky too.

 

I agree on layers. All the passengers were on deck for the approach to Cape Horn while it was windy. I think I was wearing a turtle neck, light sweater, a North Face fleece and a nylon golf jacket. I also had nylon golf rain pants over my jeans. Wool hat and gloves. Everyone was dressed similarly unfashionably. That was plenty. Same gear (minus golf over-pants) to see the penguins in Ottway.

 

Santiago and BA were hot. Summer clothes. Iguazu Falls were hotter - shorts, short-sleeves and Keen sandals.

 

I also followed Granny Lorr's advice on many excursions, but did some on our own.

 

It was a wonderful cruise.

[seabournfan]

Marazul --

 

Hopefully you will return to this thread and read this. If I could have emailed you directly, I would have done so. You have been most helpful and both my husband and I say, "thank you." We were debating our golf rain suits but you made our decision. (I'm early on the "packing" issue, but we are shipping luggage ahead due to connections to Santiago. And we will be spending six weeks away from home base between Thanksgiving and New Year's, so will have only a couple of days when we return in January to deal with this ... thus thinking about it ahead of time.)

 

Also, you are the first person to describe a successful "around the horn" experience. Now we know what we can hope for.

 

Wherever your are (I think U.S.), have a great Thanksgiving.

 

Laurie

[surfersgirl]

Seabournfan,

 

I was on the Valpo-BA cruise on the Pride this January. It was windy until we got to Cape Horn. The ship anchored in front of the lighthouse and the weather was perfect!! Sunny, calm, even warmish. Passengers were not allowed to go ashore, but the ship purser did go and had all our passports stamped with the two-page Cape Horn stamp. We made up for it by enjoying caviar and champagne on the upstairs longe (I think it has been renamed the Midnight Lounge) while enjoying the view. We were there for about 4 hours. Some passengers went on the whirlpools. So, don't despair - you could get lucky too.

 

I agree on layers. All the passengers were on deck for the approach to Cape Horn while it was windy. I think I was wearing a turtle neck, light sweater, a North Face fleece and a nylon golf jacket. I also had nylon golf rain pants over my jeans. Wool hat and gloves. Everyone was dressed similarly unfashionably. That was plenty. Same gear (minus golf over-pants) to see the penguins in Ottway.

 

Santiago and BA were hot. Summer clothes. Iguazu Falls were hotter - shorts, short-sleeves and Keen sandals.

 

I also followed Granny Lorr's advice on many excursions, but did some on our own.

 

It was a wonderful cruise.

Marazul,

thanks for the info on clothing, I think the thermals will be getting packed too especially since we are leaving an Australian summer behind.

With DHs 60th in 3 weeks plus housguests right up until the day before we leave, I have just started looking at SB tours and have noticed that Ottway Bay & The Emerald Lake are missing from the offerings this year so I would appreciate advice on the tours you did on your own.

J

PS Looking forward to the "new look" Spirit.

[marazul]

Laurie and J,

happy to help. I wish I were going again!

 

Thermals - we brought light weight thermal pants but didn't need them. Still, it would be a good idea given the unpredictable weather. Golf rain suits are ideal for the top layer since they are windproof and light weight.

 

Excursions:

Easter Island pre-cruise on our own. Booked the flights using the LAN South America Airpass for both EI and Iguazu Falls. Stayed at the hotel Otai just like SB does. Booked the hotel and excursions through visit-chile.com according to their 4 day/3 night package and paid a little extra for private excursions. Total price was about one-third SB's.

 

In Santiago, booked day excursion of Santiago, full day wineries and Maipo Valley through hotel concierge, but could also have done it through visit-chile. Also the transfer to Viña del Mar with sightseeing en route to Isla Negra and Valparaiso. Again, all private excursions.

 

Sorry about the Emerald lake, we did take SB's excursion there and it was excellent. Look in the South America board for recommendations for tour guides there if you wish.

 

In Chiloe island we hired a taxi (we are fluent in Spanish) and combined the two suggested excursions by SB. There is a travel agency on the island (do a google search) which could arrange a private tour. I agree with Granny that the ship's excursions might not be the best.

 

Puerto Chacabuco - we took the ships' excursion to Coyhaique and up the mountain.

 

Torres del Paine - we joined with another couple in their private tour that covered a little more around the Grey glacier (mostly by skipping the SB lunch). Other passengers enjoyed the ship's excursion.

 

Punta Arenas and Ottway. There are plenty of taxis and tour guides at the ship's terminal. Hire one. At the end, stay in town and go to Sotito's for lunch and have crab.

 

Ushuaia. we took the SB excursion to the train ride, etc. Stayed in town for more crab at Tante Nina's

 

Puerto Madryn. We hired a taxi at the end of the pier to take us to the see the sea lions and the Ecocenter. Decided to skip the tea at the German village with SB. Then we walked the town a little.

 

BA - ship's city tour and tango show.

 

Iguazu falls on our own. Stay at the Sheraton. All excursions can be booked at the hotel desk when you arrive. Do not miss the boat ride under the falls (you will be soaked, so the golf rain suit could be handy) and do walk the trail on San Martin island.

 

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Happy Thanksgiving to you both. One of our best ever was in Sydney!

M

[jagi]

For Iguazu Falls--depending on how much luxury you want--I would recommend a guest house in town called The Secret Garden. The owner treats his guests as if they are just that--guests. He serves cocktails and snacks on the terrace before dinner, introduces guests to one another, suggests places to eat that are all excellent, and makes arrangements for private tours. He is environmentally concerned and his "garden" is a veritable arrangement of native plants. The accommodations are few--three individual private cabins on his property-comfortable but basic. We stayed 2 days. Spent a full day at the Argentinian side, hired a car for the Brazilian side (which is definitely worth seeing) spent half a day at the Bird Park on the Brazilian side--an amazing place--and spent a fraction of the price SB charges. If you are interested you can find his information and review of this place on the web. Google The Secret Garden Iguazu. Oh yes, he also arranged to meet our plane and return us to the airport for a small fee.

[marazul]

I agree with jagi about visiting the Brazilian side if you can stay a second day. However, one of the advantages of staying at the Sheraton is that you can walk to the Falls and to the excursions, and that when you return soaking wet you can just go to your room instead of driving to town.

 

The sheraton.com website may have good deals, such as 4 pm checkout, room upgrades, etc. I would check them first. A late checkout did let us see a lot more of the falls in the morning. There are several flights out after 4. You can book it all on your own for much less than SB's prices, plus you get to spend more time at the Falls. Only a carryon is allowed on the flights to Iguazu. If you are concerned about your luggage after the cruise, simply take a taxi to whatever hotel you will be staying at after the falls and leave your luggage with the concierge. Then take a second taxi to the airport.