Live from Bordeaux!

[editor@cruisecritic]

Los Pepes, I'm a big fan of Uniworld, and it's a different experience.

 

For instance, it offers the occasional active tour (cycling and such nad has bikes onboard) and I think that is a big thing. We did a hotel/mainstream cruse line comparsion to river lines piece -- the idea was to help you figure out which line best fit your travel and budget style -- and I'm hoping it will be posted here soon. And the price point is higher, but you get morei included. So it is up to individuals to do the math and see what works for them.

 

Having said that....

 

I will say that for the first time in all of the river cruises I've done, we opted for the drinks-all-inclusive on Viking. I've never thought it made sense on a river crusie, because it's not the same as an ocean cruise (you don't have a range of bars there's not a lot of time "at sea"). Viking's was intereresting. It was 150 euro per couple, and it incorporated a lot of interesting wines-by-the-glass from the region that you wouldn't have have if you relied on the wines poured, inclusively, with lunch and dinner.

 

On the other hand, I was not alone in being impressed with the wines poured each day at no extra charge. Frankie was the sommelier, and after Magalie, the-fab-chef presented the menu at the pre-dinner cocktail hour (just as many pax showed up for her presentation as for the rest of the info provided), Frankie would follow and explain why the choices of red and wite were picked. And they were terrific.

 

I think 150 euro, per person, based on two in a cabin is a steep price. However: This is for you to choose -- the list included a lot of Bordeaux wines by the glass that you might not otherwise be able to sample. So it just depends on your level of interest, in the end, If you really want to experiment, the package is worth it.

 

Carolyn

 

th

Carolyn- Based on your experience, does it make sense to use a company like Uniworld that is more inclusive in Bordeaux? I am thinking that there is so much good food and wine that it would be shame to feel tied down to the ship since everything is included. What do you think? I know the boat Uniworld uses is smaller and a little more opulent, but from what I am gathering from your review this trip is all about the location.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

PS I rhink I have a photo of the wine list but can't find itt!

Edited May 17, 2014 by editor@cruisecritic

[kathy9]

Thanks for your live river cruise blog! We have not yet done a river cruise but one in on our ever growing cruise bucket list.

Kathy

[Bet & Peg]

Once again Carolyn, you've proved invaluable! I thank you for your comments about the drinks-all-inclusive Viking package - I had forgotten to ask about it - I'm beginning to think you're a mind reader!!!

 

Our last ocean cruise we took the package and just about broke even. Two RCs we didn't bother and DH looked at the wine list last cruise - Rhine River -and wasn't really impressed but the selection, though it OK but just as happy with the included offerings.

 

But this year the guys have talked about getting the package and wondered if the wine selection would be better because of the area we're sailing. Sounds like they might be right and will be happy to hear your comments! It would be great to see the list! And I presume passengers can still purchase the package when they board - there was a sheet on our bed about doing just that when we got into our room last cruise.

 

Thanks again!!!

[tipsygirl]

Once again Carolyn, you've proved invaluable! I thank you for your comments about the drinks-all-inclusive Viking package - I had forgotten to ask about it - I'm beginning to think you're a mind reader!!!

 

Our last ocean cruise we took the package and just about broke even. Two RCs we didn't bother and DH looked at the wine list last cruise - Rhine River -and wasn't really impressed but the selection, though it OK but just as happy with the included offerings.

 

But this year the guys have talked about getting the package and wondered if the wine selection would be better because of the area we're sailing. Sounds like they might be right and will be happy to hear your comments! It would be great to see the list! And I presume passengers can still purchase the package when they board - there was a sheet on our bed about doing just that when we got into our room last cruise.

 

Thanks again!!!

Another thing to keep in mind before purchasing the "all inclusive"drink package is that you can bring your own wine onboard with no corkage. There were many couples with their own bottles in the lounge at various times during the day, fewer at dinner. Since there is lots of access to wonderful wine onshore at good prices, and since wine is our drink of choice, the drink package didn't appeal to us.

My husband asked Franck for a copy of the wine listed with notations as to which wines we had a dinner each night, which he provided. All but 3 wines on the menu ranged between 19.5 and 36.5 Euros onboard, with per glass prices from 7 to 12.5 euros. There were 3 "Speciaties from the cellar" that ranged from 75 to 98 euros, not poured by the glass.

[Bet & Peg]

tipsygirl ~ thanks for your info about the wine list! Any chance of getting a copy? Might help in our decision! Maybe you could scan it or take a photo?

 

The package seems like an unjustified added expense but the guys are still thinking about it. All this ifo will help in the final decision!

 

Thanks much!!

[tipsygirl]

tipsygirl ~ thanks for your info about the wine list! Any chance of getting a copy? Might help in our decision! Maybe you could scan it or take a photo?

 

The package seems like an unjustified added expense but the guys are still thinking about it. All this ifo will help in the final decision!

 

Thanks much!!

FotoPeg, I scanned to wine list and tried to upload it, but got an error message saying the file is too big..exceeds the size limits set by Cruise Critic. If you wouldn't mind giving me your email address I could try sending it from my email.

[editor@cruisecritic]

Hi, FotoPeg -- thanks for the nice words -- I felt like you were along with us!

 

We went to a seafront place called L'Escale. I thought it was a very fun brasserie, food was fine. The caveat is that by Friday, lunch I just couldn't eat anymore. I think my body started rebelling on Thursday dinner and never has quite gotten over it :)

 

Frankly I'd have been happy to stay in the little village of Canon, where the oyster guy was, but this was nice too. There were two choices of entrees (fish or duck confit), two choices of starters (egg mayonaise/deviled eggs or calamari) and lemon meringue pie for dessert.

 

I think we were there about 1.25 hours, max. Very efficient, well organized, and I loved taking the boat from place to place. That made the adventure for me. And again, it was just such a different day and ambience from any others, it was a change, and good to see another part of the area. Attached is my photo of the final restaurant.

 

I've also included a link to TripAdvisor's reviews... http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1079358-d2201549-Reviews-L_Escale-Cap_Ferret_Lege_Cap_Ferret_Gironde_Aquitaine.html

 

I'll ultimately do a Bordeaux basics feature -- but you guys have heard it all here, first :D

 

Carolyn

 

PS the trickiest thing about Air France check-in machines is that only a handful (down the left side) have space to input a US passport. Our guide was so helpful (I was trying to shove it in various wrong-sized slots on unfriendly French terminals). I don't think it was so important to have someone actually on the bus -- though she was lovely -- but really nice to have someone at the airport.

 

 

Carolyn ~ right now - as your cruise ends - I'm sad for all of us! Same feeling I have when I'm physically there!!! It's been great following you on this post - makes me more anxious to be there in person - hope our weather and the tides are as good! From the comments I think many feel the same way!!! Hope your tripe home is a safe one and easy one!

 

Archachon ~ thanks SO much for your complete review! Do you remember the name of the restaurant? I did laugh out loud about wine included and not soda!! Did you feel you missed a lot of Bordeaux by taking this optional? Still on my list - but in pencil!!! Wish I had "fought" harder to stay a few days post-cruise in Bordeaux - still sure DH will be sorry!

 

Airport ~ could you explain more about the tricky check in machines? Also interesting comment about a "hosted" transfer. Last December was first time we used Viking air and departing in Amsterdam was handled nicely as to time - we didn't have to leave the ship until about 10am. No one rode the bus with us but at the airport a Viking rep got on to tell us which number line to use but never came into the terminal. Maybe its a new service justifying the cost. Still thinking if we should use Viking's Bordeaux transfer or just a cab - got our own air since we'll be in Paris pre-cruise.

 

Thanks once again for all your time on this thread - I'll miss it and YOU!!!!

[editor@cruisecritic]

In the For Whatever It's Worth category, as I'm home now, having a wine-free dinner and feeling super-exhausted, there's a chance to contemplate what I might do differently on a Bordeaux cruise had I known more. Please feel free to weigh in with your own lessons learned!

 

1. More time in Bordeaux. What an amazing city and there just didn't seem to be as much time as I expected. I'd definitely go in a couple of days early next time to explore it leisurely.

 

2. The ship's ambience was just terrific and perhaps that is a part of why, at night after dinner we could have certainly strolled down to the fabulous Three Graces fountain at the Place de la Bourse, or maybe had dinner off-board, but we didn't! I'm a cruise person at heart and I loved the ship. However, the regret on this end is because there was so much to see and do (and admittedly, I was working, too, so didn't have much down time in the end), I would have loved to spend time on the sundeck reading one of tantalizing books (whether novels or non fiction) that Viking's stocked in its small but really quite excellent library. There was one on the WWII resistance effort in the region that I borrowed at the beginning and I barely got to read the back cover. There was another on a guy who went to cooking school in Paris, and a third, a novel about the life of famed chef Escoffier, called White Truffles in Winter, that I simply downloaded on my iPad.

 

I also wished I'd spent more time on the Aquavit Terrace and/or the lounge, soaking up the sun and just...chillin'

 

3. You can't do all of the optional tours, but you may want to! The markets tour with chef Magalie conflicted with Aracachon, and the truffle hunting as well with Chateau Suirac. But the thing to know about the optional tours is that they're not simply marked up versions of a standard tour. All the standard tours seemed solid (one I did not do, because by Thursday I was kind of wiped out, was Sauternes, and I heard a lot of raves about it, and whatever you do, don't miss the dinner at Chateau Kirwan). What the optional tours did was offer experiences you'd be hard pressed to organize yourself or via some other kind of tour guide.

 

I encourage you to check out this slideshow, which just was launched a few weeks ago, about what Viking River went through to pull this itinerary together. It's here: http://www.cruisecritic.com/articles.cfm?ID=1617 .

 

4. Okay, there's a fourth. Bordeaux has a lovely bike share program, and it certainly would have been really easy to get some exercise while there but I just didn't get that done. As well, the concierge can also book bikes from a private cycling operator in the city ($40 apiece, I believe) and have them delivered to the ship. I encourage you to consider this. However, don't consider this at the town of Cadillac, as I did, when I decided to skip that Sauturnes tour and had a rare morning free. Bastien, the concierge, did his best but there just wasn't a cycling lease company in that area.

 

I think that's everything -- if you have any further questions, please shout 'em out. If I've forgotten to address something, let me know. And thanks to all of you -- you were amazingly fun to travel with, and you inspired me. All I ask from you in return is to hear about your trips so I can relive 'em along with you.

 

Carolyn

[editor@cruisecritic]

Okay, so I'm not quite finished :)

 

One thing we did that we've never done on a river cruise (why would you, you're fed so well), is pick up little bits of food at very shops along the itinerary. We were inspired in Pauillac, at the little gourmet cave I mentioned many posts ago. We picked up foie gras (not everyone's taste, admittedly), a bottle of Bordeaux rose (not my favorite, a little tart, but it fit), some gorgeous apricot chutney and, inexplicably some lovely handmade soaps.

 

In other ports we picked up chocolate (our pal Sara bought some gorgeous chocolate covered cherries at the famous, and historic Badoit, in Bordeaux and come to think of it, we never got to taste one!), there was cheese, and on the last day I bought a baguette from a patisserie in Cadillac. What we did spend, maybe 25 euro altogether, for a lovely spread, and the ship's restaurant team insisted it take our treasures and lay out them out beautifully. Lesson learned: If you're going to do it on the way from Cadillac to Bordeaux, an afternoon we spent motoring along quite a beautiful river scape, stake out a table on the Aquavit terrace (we had planned to do it up on the sundeck but because the bridges are low on this stretch it was closed).

 

I can't imagine what other passengers were thinking when they saw the spread ("wait: Is this on the menu?) :) and we certainly didn't need to bring our own food onboard, but gosh it was almost as much fun to gather our treasures as it was to eat them.

 

Carolyn

 

PS Here's a pic.

Edited May 19, 2014 by editor@cruisecritic

[magellan2022]

Carolyn,

I am so going to miss hearing from you every day. I feel like we've been on vacation together!

Thanks for all your suggestions and advice and thanks to everyone else (FotoPeg, tipsygirl, theresab113, nana541, loge23 and id4elizabeth) who have added to this conversation!

I just got off the phone with our travel agent who was able to book the Chateau Suirac optional tour for us. After reading the descriptions and experiences of those who loved it, I am sure it will be worth the $230 for both of us! So now Mike and I don't need to storm the concierge desk as soon as we board!

Regarding the airport transfer, I was also told that we could book the Viking airport transfers. The charge would be $240 for both of us round trip. We booked our own air/train and will arrive from Paris via the TGV. I am assuming it would be $120 one way. Though it would be lovely to have a representative accompany us safely through the checkin process, I think we're quite capable of taking a cab and figuring it out ourselves, especially for a 12:25 pm plane. We can spend that money on wine!

I am so ready for July 5th to come so that we can experience our own adventures!

Again Carolyn, thank you, thank you and Merci.

Jackie

[Bet & Peg]

Carolyn ~ thank you for your added info about the Arcachon trip - sounds fantastic!!!!

 

And also a "heads-up" about the machines and US Passports!

 

Your story about your little "picnic" onboard brought such a smile to my face!! We are kindred spirits!! On our first cruise - over 25 years ago! - we sat on the pool deck eating the most fantastic take-out fish chowder from a local restaurant as we sailed out of Bermuda! And the year we sailed up the St. Lawrence, we took the train back to NYC, just for something different - and bough lunch at the Montreal Station - it left everyone wondering where the delicious food had come from!

 

You may be giving a new name to such an event - A Carolyn Picnic!!!! Will let you know if we follow your lead on our cruise!!!

[Bet & Peg]

tipsygirl ~ will happily send my e-mail ~ my screen name at aol dot com.

 

Thanks SO much for scanning the wine list - DH really looking forward to seeing it!!!!

[editor@cruisecritic]

Smiling, FotoPeg, you're amazing.

 

Carolyn

 

Carolyn ~ thank you for your added info about the Arcachon trip - sounds fantastic!!!!

 

And also a "heads-up" about the machines and US Passports!

 

Your story about your little "picnic" onboard brought such a smile to my face!! We are kindred spirits!! On our first cruise - over 25 years ago! - we sat on the pool deck eating the most fantastic take-out fish chowder from a local restaurant as we sailed out of Bermuda! And the year we sailed up the St. Lawrence, we took the train back to NYC, just for something different - and bough lunch at the Montreal Station - it left everyone wondering where the delicious food had come from!

 

You may be giving a new name to such an event - A Carolyn Picnic!!!! Will let you know if we follow your lead on our cruise!!!

[notamermaid]

Hello Carolyn,

 

good to hear you had such a great time. May I renew my question regarding the cruise:

 

how many kilometres did you actually sail?

 

I only knew the kilometres of my Danube cruise because the captain told us, it was over a thousand. Quite a distance, which we covered for a great part at night. Nevertheless we saw almost all stretches of river during the day as it was a Passau return trip.

 

Another question, just for curiosity, if you are happy to give it away: as there was a Uniworld sailing around the same time, why did you chose the Viking sailing? This is really a neutral question.

 

Thank you.

 

Looking forward to your next report from a river cruise. :)

 

notamermaid

[editor@cruisecritic]

Hi, notamermaid. My bad -- you did ask about the kilometers and I forgot at the end, so am checking with Viking. Will get back to you.

 

I love Uniworld as well -- and happy to share why we went to Bordeaux with Viking first. About, gosh, a year ago I was having a conversation with a fascinating guy at Viking who is part of the team that plans out itineraries. He was telling me stories about some of the preliminary ideas and experiences in building the new route, and I thought it would be fascinating to actually go out with Viking on one of those road trips.

 

The company was really open with us about out, and my colleague, Jamey Bergman, made the trip. And opened our eyes to Bordeaux to the point where we wanted to see what the end product looked like!

 

Jamey's story is here, by the way, and my story is mostly tied up in posts here, but I'll be writing a slideshow as well with some fresh insights. Link: http://www.cruisecritic.com/articles.cfm?ID=1617

 

Hope that answers your question, Notamermaid, and I'll get back to you about the distance....

 

Carolyn

 

 

Hello Carolyn,

 

good to hear you had such a great time. May I renew my question regarding the cruise:

 

how many kilometres did you actually sail?

 

I only knew the kilometres of my Danube cruise because the captain told us, it was over a thousand. Quite a distance, which we covered for a great part at night. Nevertheless we saw almost all stretches of river during the day as it was a Passau return trip.

 

Another question, just for curiosity, if you are happy to give it away: as there was a Uniworld sailing around the same time, why did you chose the Viking sailing? This is really a neutral question.

 

Thank you.

 

Looking forward to your next report from a river cruise. :)

 

notamermaid

[Los_Pepes]

Thank you Carolyn for your replies to my questions. We have a Rhine cruise booked next year with Uniworld, but might look into Viking in 2016.

[editor@cruisecritic]

Viking tells us that the route covers 320 kilometers. So you're not covering as much distance as you might on a Rhine or Danube cruise but you are getting a more concentrated experience in the region surrounding Bordeaux. I addressed this in our "hits and misses" blog. Pluses mostly to this type of cruise....

 

Carolyn

 

Link: http://www.cruisecritic.com/blog/index.php/2014/05/16/live-from-bordeaux-hits-misses/

 

Hi, notamermaid. My bad -- you did ask about the kilometers and I forgot at the end, so am checking with Viking. Will get back to you.

 

I love Uniworld as well -- and happy to share why we went to Bordeaux with Viking first. About, gosh, a year ago I was having a conversation with a fascinating guy at Viking who is part of the team that plans out itineraries. He was telling me stories about some of the preliminary ideas and experiences in building the new route, and I thought it would be fascinating to actually go out with Viking on one of those road trips.

 

The company was really open with us about out, and my colleague, Jamey Bergman, made the trip. And opened our eyes to Bordeaux to the point where we wanted to see what the end product looked like!

 

Jamey's story is here, by the way, and my story is mostly tied up in posts here, but I'll be writing a slideshow as well with some fresh insights. Link: http://www.cruisecritic.com/articles.cfm?ID=1617

 

Hope that answers your question, Notamermaid, and I'll get back to you about the distance....

 

Carolyn

[pacmom]

Carolyn, would love to see you go back to Bordeaux and take Uniworld's trip. Then we could see a real comparison. My trip with Road Scholar on CroisiEurope was very wine intense and was more educational than vacation. Or if you don't want to go, send Jazzbeau. Pat

[Host Jazzbeau]

Carolyn, would love to see you go back to Bordeaux and take Uniworld's trip. Then we could see a real comparison. My trip with Road Scholar on CroisiEurope was very wine intense and was more educational than vacation. Or if you don't want to go, send Jazzbeau. Pat

 

It's a tough job, but I would do it!

[notamermaid]

Hello Carolyn,

 

both questions answered fully. :)

 

Although it is a short trip in distance I sounds a very intensive coverage of the area, which I am sure, does appeal to a lot of cruisers. Including me. :D

 

Good to hear you enjoyed it so much.

 

notamermaid

 

Weather update: after days of beautiful rather warm days, extensive rain and winds in the Rhine valley today.

Edited May 23, 2014 by notamermaid
spelling

[Bet & Peg]

I think what Carolyn said about the Bordeaux cruise (any RC line) puts its perfectly - it doesn't cover much distance but its a more concentrated experience.

 

The main reason we chose this RC was because of the itinerary. DH became seriously interested in wine in the late 60s - yes, we're ancient!! In those by gone days, in the US it Bordeaux was THE wine to drink. It always intimidated me - too many rules (i.e. red with meat, white fish, etc) and too intimidating! I was SO happy when we began drinking world-wide wine with an any-thing-goes attitude! I enjoy a strong fish taste and a good body red wine! But Bordeaux has always held the top spot for DH and I'm not sure why we never thought of just traveling there!!

 

We took the Rhone River cruise mainly for Chateauneuf-du-papa. We SO enjoyed the RC!! Returning Viking had announced this new itinerary so we booked ASAP. But again - our choice was itinerary driver not the distance we're be sailing. The fact that the sailing part would be limited I felt was obvious from the map! Perhaps Viking should incorporate Carolyn's excellent quote in their advertising!!!

 

We have a land trip to Ireland in June but now I can't wait for October's cruise - except once here it'll be over too quickly!!!

[jojocmcla]

Carolyn, I loved your little impromptu picnic with the local goodies you picked up. Sounds like our biking tour of the Loire Valley in 2008. When we got hungry for lunch, we would stop in a little village at the patisserie and buy baguettes of French bread. Then, we would head to the charcutrie for meats, pate', and cheese. Then, fruits and veggies at local stands. Then, we would go picnic on the lawn of quaint little cottages...like the Chateau Chambord!:) My motto is "Live, Love, Laugh, and Make a Memory!"

[mwest]

We have just returned from this cruise, spent a few days on our own in Paris after. I believe we were on the boat the week after Carolyn and I would basically echo what she said, our experience was pretty much as she described. The one thing I would expand on though is that there is not much cruising in terms of scenery and that you do spend a fair amount of time on the bus. I also think we spent too much time in Bordeaux docked but it is a lovely city. The market tour was a great experience with the chef and they actually added it as a bonus at no charge because of some problems we had during the cruise.

If you go, take full advantage of the deck meals for lunch for sure, its the best part of the cruise. We never went to the dining room for lunch, always sitting in the sun or shade on the deck with a view of wherever we were docked.

I will try to answer any questions that anyone has.

[Host Jazzbeau]

The question I have is whether there is an alternative that would duplicate this experience without the boat, since there is so little sailing involved anyway. Could you stay at a luxury hotel in Bordeaux and arrange day trips to the places that the cruise visits? Given the high price of river cruises, you should be able to use private guides and still come out at about the same cost. That would avoid buses and also allow even more tailored itineraries.

[Bet & Peg]

One thing I forgot to mention about us choosing this cruise is that I really do believe that Viking - or any large RC line - can make arrangements for tours that just aren't available for a couple or a small group. Last year on the Rhine River cruise there was an optional WWII tour & museum visit in Colmar France. A check on the internet showed that the museum was closed in December except for groups. And, yes, indeed the tour took place with the visit to the museum - DH really enjoyed it.

 

I think that example is a small one compared to what we've been reading regarding this cruise. Could a small tour group - even 8 or 12 people - make arrangements to eat dinner in a Chateau? make their own cognac? have lunch and a private chateau visit? Perhaps they could but I'm not sure!

 

We usually don't enjoy ships excursions and rarely take them on ocean cruises perfering to go in smaller groups. But sometimes a large group is needed for certain experiences!