Quest Grand Voyage around South America, 2023

[markham]

Dear cruisers,

 

We are now in Panama City’s port after 3 full sea days and a slightly on/off rainy Panama Canal transit which was terrific because we saw so much. We arrived at the Atlantic entrance later than I recall in past years so we could see the immense number of ships and scope of all aspects of the operation.

 

As far as I can tell the ship is full on this segment to Lima and it is mainly Americans, a hearty and friendly lot. No venue is crowded - which is testament to the balanced offerings in these well-designed Ody class ships. Chef Pascal is here, Chief Rajat and Michael Simon of Seattle are now leaving, we have a new chef Trevor, Jan is her most professional CD self, we have a new HAL-sourced captain Sybe, a newish jovial can-do HD in Klaus, and very thorough CSD Svenja. Dusan is MD MDR, Bruno is MD Colonnade, and a wilderness-loving and way too good-looking trauma specialising Dr Solomon is in the medical centre. I hope that will do for now.

 

And back to more vital matters eg the dress code. It is true that some of the passengers wear old favorite jeans to the MDR. I think this goes well enough with the idea that this is an expedition cruise of sorts, and we have seen this before on Quest to Antarctica and Silver Cloud. But at the captain’s formal night welcome party in the Grand Salon, and while some were dressed quite casually ie some did not even wear jackets, I lament to report that there were very few dinner jackets. In that there were more of them across the 6 officers on deck than in the pews. But still, the ambience was kinda there anyway, although I had to press to get more champagne service (I think that has been corrected now). Everyone demonstrated their enthusiasm and excitement. I mean you’re getting zodiac landings at Antarctica and South Georgia, and stops in Amazonia on this full service 450 pax ship without the eye watering prices of Venture!

 

Today is the restart of Seabourn fleet’s Howdy Doody Git to Know Yer Neyber Block Party! Since COVID’s scourge ended the most vaunted of all Seabourn’s Signature Events. How fabulous! More reports later…

Happy and healthy sailing!

Edited January 11, 2023 by markham

[RetiredandTravel]

Thanks for posting.  Enjoy your cruise.

[SLSD]

So--did you actually go to the Howdy Doody neighbor party?  I'm not holding my breath on that one.  I hope you will continue your reports!

[Fletcher]

3 hours ago, markham said:

 

 

Today is the restart of Seabourn fleet’s Howdy Doody Git to Know Yer Neyber Block Party! Since COVID’s scourge ended the most vaunted of all Seabourn’s Signature Events. How fabulous! More reports later…

 

We successfully avoided one of those super-spreader events on the Sojourn last September.  Great cruise you are on Markham.  Epic in fact.

[Mr Luxury]

1 hour ago, SLSD said:

So--did you actually go to the Howdy Doody neighbor party?  I'm not holding my breath on that one.  I hope you will continue your reports!

Markham was the one leading the Captain around the decks and knocking on doors. 😃 

[markham]

No, that was not Markham on that last Ody pre-Covid Block Party. It was Mel, and he is the one that likes cats.
 

BTW, I have it on good authority that Mel will be surprising and delighting Jan, the HD and the captain this evening at 18:00 on deck 10 when the formalities commence, and that Mel will follow them to each passenger deck to ensure that absolutely everyone enjoys this Signature Event.

 

Oh, yes.

 

Happy and healthy sailing!

[frantic36]

46 minutes ago, markham said:

No, that was not Markham on that last Ody pre-Covid Block Party. It was Mel, and he is the one that likes cats.
 

BTW, I have it on good authority that Mel will be surprising and delighting Jan, the HD and the captain this evening at 18:00 on deck 10 when the formalities commence, and that Mel will follow them to each passenger deck to ensure that absolutely everyone enjoys this Signature Event.

 

Oh, yes.

 

Happy and healthy sailing!

 

Oh No!!!😂

 

I hope you don't mind me contributing markham?

 

We enjoyed our monkey watch tour in Fuerte Amador today even with the rain and getting wet. Though some didn't enjoy the long bus ride or getting wet on the speed boat ride. We did manage to see some groups of Howler & White Faced monkeys, various vultures, a humming bird and Iguana though I was hoping for an Anaconda. 

 

After our sea day tomorrow we have two days in Manta, Ecuador where we will do a private food tour Day 1 and another Seabourn Tour Day 2.

 

For those who will visit Fuerte Amador in the future we docked and air conditioned buses picked us up. The new port buildings still have a long way to go and the road is partly graded sand based road. Our driver was careful and I didn't find it uncomfortable though it was a little bumpier than normal roads. It was only about 10 mins before getting onto normal road.

[florisdekort]

1 hour ago, frantic36 said:

 

Oh No!!!😂

 

I hope you don't mind me contributing markham?

 

We enjoyed our monkey watch tour in Fuerte Amador today even with the rain and getting wet. Though some didn't enjoy the long bus ride or getting wet on the speed boat ride. We did manage to see some groups of Howler & White Faced monkeys, various vultures, a humming bird and Iguana though I was hoping for an Anaconda. 

 

After our sea day tomorrow we have two days in Manta, Ecuador where we will do a private food tour Day 1 and another Seabourn Tour Day 2.

 

For those who will visit Fuerte Amador in the future we docked and air conditioned buses picked us up. The new port buildings still have a long way to go and the road is partly graded sand based road. Our driver was careful and I didn't find it uncomfortable though it was a little bumpier than normal roads. It was only about 10 mins before getting onto normal road.

Would you mind sharing some information on your private food tour? That sounds interesting! 

[frantic36]

14 hours ago, florisdekort said:

Would you mind sharing some information on your private food tour? That sounds interesting! 

 

Hi Floris, It is a local company and here is the link to the description.

https://www.narwelltours.com/producto/manta-food-tour/

 

They were responsive to emails and in fact we are a party of four and they told us about another Seabourn party of four and asked if we wanted to join up tours which reduced the price from$145pp to $100pp. So I will let you know how it goes.

 

I misspoke in my earlier post and on the second day we are doing another private tour organised by a roll call member to the Pacoche Rainforest.

 

It is in Lima we are due to do a private food tour one day and Seabourn tour the next.

 

By the way Mel's visit was a highlight for me of the block party and we did meet some other nice people.

 

Cheers, Julie

[florisdekort]

2 hours ago, frantic36 said:

 

Hi Floris, It is a local company and here is the link to the description.

https://www.narwelltours.com/producto/manta-food-tour/

 

They were responsive to emails and in fact we are a party of four and they told us about another Seabourn party of four and asked if we wanted to join up tours which reduced the price from$145pp to $100pp. So I will let you know how it goes.

 

I misspoke in my earlier post and on the second day we are doing another private tour organised by a roll call member to the Pacoche Rainforest.

 

It is in Lima we are due to do a private food tour one day and Seabourn tour the next.

 

By the way Mel's visit was a highlight for me of the block party and we did meet some other nice people.

 

Cheers, Julie

Thank you!  We’re 4 days behind you on Sojourn. Will have a look 🙂 

 

[frantic36]

We had a sea day yesterday and crossing the Equator event. There were quite a lot of Polly Wogs, I think 23 was the count including a few crew. Jan the CD did an excellent job of keeping everyone moving through and the jokes coming.

 

Our Hotel Director is new to the Seabourn brand but has worked as Manager for Dorchester, Claridges and Belmond brands. He was a Polly Wog and joined in the event in good spirit. His entry into the pool was enthusiastic.

 

 

We tried the TK Crispy Chicken at Colonnade last night. We had tried it last in 2018 but was disappointed as it wasn't as crispy as we had at tried at Ad Hoc in Napa. Last night was very good and we enjoyed it with friends we had made on this cruise.

 

We do our food tour today in Manta so @florisdekort I will report back.

 

[Mr Luxury]

Julie,

Whats the name of the HD

Edited January 13, 2023 by Mr Luxury

[FlyingScotSailors]

4 hours ago, frantic36 said:

Jan the CD

Posted before Mr. L changed his post from "Who is the CD".

Edited January 13, 2023 by FlyingScotSailors
edit by previous poster.

[frantic36]

The Narwell Food Tour was excellent and all eight of us enjoyed it. We caught the port shuttle to the terminal a short 5 minute ride. Our guide Maria was waiting. We boarded a newish 10 seater bus that was very comfortable. First we went to Casa Rosa, a lovingly restored dwelling which is now used as a cafe, bottom floor, lovely restaurant and high end conference room and rooftop bar.  We had fresh roasted coffee and an empanada classic breakfast. We were shown how they roast the raw beans in a special machine.

Our guide with the barista and a bowl of raw beans as the discuss temperature setting.

 

The house was fascinating with lots of historic photos and we returned to eat to see the ceviche made and for lunch after the fish market.

 

The fish market was very clean and we weren't hassled. We got to see also them pulling some nets to shore and the swarms of various seabirds. It was amazing chance to see birds of all descriptions from pelicans to white egrets and migratory birds.

The cats were obviously well fed.

 

After buying the Dorade fish we returned and Chef Nicolas demonstrated the method of Ceviche which was chopped into small cubes and served with plantain chips and was delicious. Our main course was grilled fish with a shrimp sauce, salad and rice. The meal was served on the rooftop terrace under cover.

 

To be continued but hopefully this is helpful @florisdekort.

[markham]

Mr L,

His name is Klaus Kabelitz. He doesn’t know you.

 

On another note, everyone here agrees that the complimentary wine list is vastly improved. Credit then to Marco and Simon of head office.

 

Happy and healthy sailing!

[florisdekort]

20 hours ago, frantic36 said:

The Narwell Food Tour was excellent and all eight of us enjoyed it. We caught the port shuttle to the terminal a short 5 minute ride. Our guide Maria was waiting. We boarded a newish 10 seater bus that was very comfortable. First we went to Casa Rosa, a lovingly restored dwelling which is now used as a cafe, bottom floor, lovely restaurant and high end conference room and rooftop bar.  We had fresh roasted coffee and an empanada classic breakfast. We were shown how they roast the raw beans in a special machine.

Our guide with the barista and a bowl of raw beans as the discuss temperature setting.

 

The house was fascinating with lots of historic photos and we returned to eat to see the ceviche made and for lunch after the fish market.

 

The fish market was very clean and we weren't hassled. We got to see also them pulling some nets to shore and the swarms of various seabirds. It was amazing chance to see birds of all descriptions from pelicans to white egrets and migratory birds.

The cats were obviously well fed.

 

After buying the Dorade fish we returned and Chef Nicolas demonstrated the method of Ceviche which was chopped into small cubes and served with plantain chips and was delicious. Our main course was grilled fish with a shrimp sauce, salad and rice. The meal was served on the rooftop terrace under cover.

 

To be continued but hopefully this is helpful @florisdekort.

Thank you! 🙏🏻

[Mr Luxury]

On 1/14/2023 at 2:07 AM, markham said:

Mr L,

His name is Klaus Kabelitz. He doesn’t know you.

 

On another note, everyone here agrees that the complimentary wine list is vastly improved. Credit then to Marco and Simon of head office.

 

Happy and healthy sailing!

I know Klaus Kabelitz from Claridges.

He a was also the manager at the Cadogan Hotel in London when it reopened.

Our mutual TA also knows him

I never thought he would leave established land based hotels and run away to sea

[frantic36]

Some updates from our cruise. As you know the second day in Lima all Seabourn excursions and the shuttle into Mira Flores was cancelled. The shuttle to the port gate wasn't. I had spoken to my Haku guide and they reassured me they were not going to be near any protests ( or manifestations as they called it) as these were likely in the Historical Centre near the government buildings. So four of us went on our tour.

 

We started and a local fish market where we had a freshly cooked crumbed herring burger with salsa, this was my favourite so far. Sorry it is upside down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we went to a large street market where many different fruits were purchased. We then went to restaurant where these were served followed by a pouch of a seafood a rice soup, fish ceviche, seafood fried rice and fried fish.

 

 

We then went to see street art which was very colourful

 

As I mentioned a few days ago, while we were out we saw no evidence of road blocks or protests as our guides kept us away from any problems. It was very sad the next morning to hear of what happened in the evening as this impact of lack of tourists will hurt the local people the most. A market we stopped at to buy a t-shirt we were the only tourists there.

 

We were unable to leave Callao till 2pm the next day and any further ports in Peru were skipped and we headed straight to Chile. 

[florisdekort]

And I’m sure you already know that when Sojourn was in port the next two days, it became a technical stop only… no shore leave at all for guests and crew. You arrived and left just in time! 
 

[frantic36]

 

 

2 minutes ago, florisdekort said:

And I’m sure you already know that when Sojourn was in port the next two days, it became a technical stop only… no shore leave at all for guests and crew. You arrived and left just in time! 
 

 

I was very glad you were able to get your supplies and pick up the Galapagos passengers and also Captain Hamish's wife.

Edited January 24, 2023 by frantic36

[Sunviking]

Once again your food pictures look very good.  It's very sad that whenever a place that relies heavily on tourism has political unrest ("manifestations"), the ordinary people who make a living off of visitors are hurt the most.  It sounds like you had a lovely time in Callao and Lima despite the situation. 

[frantic36]

Arica, Chile was our next port of call. This has great significance to Chilean history as it was the site of a battle in the War of the Pacific. The day is commemorated as a National Day on 7th June.

 

The Peruvian army was stationed at the top of the great hill and three garrisons surrounding it. The Chilean army led by Colonel Lagos (now General) knew they had to take it swiftly so they took that hill in ~55 minutes and then the garrisons. This was one of the turning points of the war which Chile eventually won.

 

The hill with the flag on top is where we climbed and as you can see in the second photo it was steep. I will admit to some tenderness in my calf muscles the next day.

 

 

Seabourn used this as an opportunity to set up a welcome back party with drinks and some local dancers. They also went to a local market to get some fresh fruits.

 

Edited January 24, 2023 by frantic36

[Mr Luxury]

Keith's looking well with his gun.

[lincslady]

I posted a query on the other Quest thread - I wonder if it is  possible to visit the Atacama desert from Antofagasta?   I spent a couple of nights there some 30 years ago, but didn't get to do that, although my DH had on a previous longer business visit, and found it fascinating.

[markham]

I have no first hand knowledge although a google search would show any options. Yesterday in Antafagasta we simply walked around the square and waterfront to stretch our legs. The highlight was back onboard with a dance party starting at 19:30 for the entire evening with both bands and various pop singers belting them out to the delight of dozens on the patio for the 23:00 sailaway. “Oh, what a night” comes to mind.

About  the desert, we took a train from Iquique, a Seabourn excursion, when we were there 5 years ago.

 

We have a sea day today and on Friday a big passenger turnover in San Antonio (for Santiago). It is cloudy and cool but we are rewarded with hundreds of dolphins just now and before the Galley Market Lunch. I will keep an eye on frantic36 to ensure she does not overeat.

 

Happy and healthy sailing!

Edited January 25, 2023 by markham