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The river Moselle infos and river cruising experiences


notamermaid
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2 hours ago, notamermaid said:

Had not thought to post this before, perhaps this is a helpful for those bicycle excursions. There is a signed cycle route along the Moselle: https://en.visitmosel.de/cycling/mosel-cycle-path

 

notamermaid

 

Yes, we cycled a lot of it on my bike and barge trip. It crosses the Moselle a number of times, and most of it was quite scenic. 

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More and more river cruise ships are sailing the Moselle. What has been a small hindrance so far has been the old infrastructure. The towns need more or stronger landing stages. Traben-Trarbach will have one updated so that then 135m ships can dock on both sides of the river. The mayor is happy, some townspeople are not. There is a Bürgerinitiative, a citizens' interest group, campaigning against it. They prefer it "quiet" as it is now. Townspeople in Bernkastel-Kues are also sceptical about the modernized landing stage area. But there the main reason for the investment is the connection to electricity supplied from on land. This will eliminate noise at night but some people seem to think it will attract more ships. Again, their mayor is fine with it. It is a constant debate how much money river cruise tourists spend in a place and whether it is worth putting up with more of them, not just on the Moselle. Here is the German article on the topic: https://www.swr.de/swraktuell/rheinland-pfalz/trier/buergerinitiative-in-traben-trarbach-fuerchtet-massentourismus-wegen-mosel-fluss-kreuzfahrten-100.html

 

notamermaid

 

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I grew up in a summer tourist town and can understand their concern. We knew that the town could not survive without them but these places are different. Perhaps the docking fees or length of free time that cruise lines should give passengers to independently tour the towns should be a condition to dock there? Last fall we had quite a bit of free time in Passau and Regensburg and plenty of people from the ship sought out local restaurants, pubs and came back with high end souvenirs. Tour guides were well paid and tipped, as well as entry fees for historical places we had guided tours. Each town will need to perform a cost benefit analysis and decide for themselves if a river cruise ship does not provide the same benefit as land based visitors. 

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I was watching this travel show (great series, narrated by Bill Nighy) on the Mosel just after reading this thread.

 

The scene in Bernkastel, the town looked pretty busy, not sure if a river boat was docked.  For some of the wine towns, probably enough is enough. Maybe they sell a lot more ice creams and coffee than I realize, but I would think that people driving buy a lot more wine, stay overnight, etc.  If those people stay away at all due to the increase in river visitors, not a good outcome. 

 

Notamermaid, I do vaguely remember the small diesel running, Vantage had the second dining lounge above the engine and the small seating area was basically unusable with smell.  Definitely a tricky balance.

 

We were fortunate that when we docked, we stayed overnight.  I doubt Vantage was doing it with any regards to the town coffers, but it is a nice idea.  On this cruise,it was a misty/foggy November evening, perfect atmosphere.  But I don't think much money was spent in town, Vantage skewed to an older crowd.  Found a quiet wine bar and listened to 'The Blue Danube' on the radio.  Got the barman to chuckle when I said it was the wrong river.  Wandered back to ship happy. 

 

On the way back to the Rhine, we stopped in the afternoon, a Carnival festival was starting, the place was jam packed, we got to see the parade to start the day, music, lots of costumes.  The town has a lot going for it.

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I must admit that I am in two minds about the updated infrastructure and the increase in the size of the ships. Well, they showed the Viking landing stage... But it is not just Viking. It used to be only 110m ships that were allowed on the river, then some years back they said 135m ships are okay, now most of them are the 135m maximum length. It is not that many more people per ship of course. So on the one hand I would say "what are they moaning about?", but on the other hand I can see where they are coming from, i.e. the passengers come in a bulk, have a guided tour, an ice-cream, and disappear. I do not fully agree with that assessment, though. It is a mixed thing. As a day tripper in Bernkastel-Kues I strolled along, had a quick lunch in a café and disappeared. And a pittance in parking fees. Almost any river cruise passenger leaves more money directly and indirectly in town. But I also do not fully agree with the mayor saying that people that have been on a river cruise very often become a repeat visitor on land (with more money they will leave in town). Again a mixed thing. Depending on the individual, the country of origin, the budget. I doubt a person from (insert US State of our choice) will tell ten friends how great Bernkastel-Kues is and five of them turn up at a café in Bernkastel-Kues a month later... Anyway, I hope they find the right balance, and do not turn the place into "Rüdesheim-on-the-Moselle". 😉

 

As for Traben-Trarbach: when I went I found it a bit quiet and so far I have not seen that many ships dock there. I understand the townspeople trying to keep a bit more of that "sophisticated" approach to tourism which is well becoming to this once famous wine centre, but a bit more should not do harm. But as always, just a bit more may turn into a lot more and better complain now than when it is "too late". I can understand the citizens looking at other places, we know Passau is struggling, and saying that they do not want this. Traben-Trarbach is too small for hordes.

 

By the way, on this topic. Beilstein. The village is quaint and popular and if a Viking river cruise ship docked there the passengers would more than double the head count in town. Beilstein only has 149 inhabitants but a landing stage for ships. The place is no hidden gem.

 

notamermaid

 

 

notamermaid

 

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It is cold in Germany with the clouds bringing rain from the Baltic. A return of snow brought by "Väterchen Frost" from the Baltic (and Russia). This so far has not made the river rise, most of the rain has stayed over the Rhine while the snow is retained in the Vosges mountains. These will then drain their water mostly into the Moselle when the temperatures rise.

 

Here is a webcam of Metz, the square at the Cathedral: https://metz.fr/decouvrir-partager/webcams/place_armes.php

 

notamermaid

 

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On 4/15/2024 at 12:15 PM, ural guy said:

I was watching this travel show (great series, narrated by Bill Nighy) on the Mosel just after reading this thread.

There is some really nice footage in this. I did not know just how many wine cellar are in Traben-Trarbach! I have been into four. One of the things they cover in the narration is the replica of the wine ship found carved as a tombstone for a Roman wine merchant. Found at Neumagen-Dhron they called it Stella Noviomagi. Noviomagus Treverorum is the Latin name of the town.

You can book a seat for one of the sailings or even hire the entire ship. Website in German only unfortunately: https://www.neumagen-dhron.de/weinschiff-stella-noviomagi/

 

notamermaid

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

After uneventful weeks as regards river levels the Moselle is now seeing a fast rise. The Saar river has risen already and this additional wave will very much feed the Moselle from the confluence at Konz and from there Trier and the Middle Moselle, starting from tomorrow afternoon. Warning level for flooding will be reached but a bi-annual flooding level is as of now not very likely.

 

notamermaid

 

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Both the Saar and Moselle have been put on flood vigilance, meaning an update to the situation is issued every 15 minutes. This is what it looks like, you can follow along:

https://www.pegelonline.wsv.de/webservices/zeitreihe/visualisierung?ansicht=einzeln&pegelnummer=26100100&pegelnummer=26500100&pegelnummer=26900400&start=2023-11-10T00:00

 

Trier gauge is now at 755cm. That is flooding and above HSW M III (river traffic ban).

 

notamermaid

 

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I believe the Moselle locks are due for their annual maintenance 3-12 June 2024.

 

https://moselkommission.org/en/downloads/lock-closure-times-and-traffic/lock-closure-times-on-the-moselle

 

One Scenic cruiser has reported receiving a letter from Scenic advising of this and the actions they will take re alternate berthing and excursions etc

 

Jo

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1 hour ago, Wombat706 said:

I believe the Moselle locks are due for their annual maintenance 3-12 June 2024.

 

https://moselkommission.org/en/downloads/lock-closure-times-and-traffic/lock-closure-times-on-the-moselle

 

One Scenic cruiser has reported receiving a letter from Scenic advising of this and the actions they will take re alternate berthing and excursions etc

 

Jo

Since the schedule begins in 2021, Scenic has known these dates for at least 3 years, and shouldn't be adjusting schedules now.

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gnome12 that’s really interesting, it just seems a weird time of year to do maintenance almost full season and looking at the chart all bouncing around that time of year. Maybe it’s to miss hopefully any high or low water issues, but a strange toss up between money making and money costing months. Although yes it looks like someone at Scenic Switzerland has taken their eye off the ball.

 

One year we missed the early morning call to photograph the confluence because our Captain had been advised at midnight to leave Moselle because the river level was rising fast. Yet another reason to repeat that cruise!

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Uniworld doesn't start on the Moselle until June 27 this year, must have added some extra days to be sure the work is completed. Next year it starts June 21 on this new and interesting itinerary:

https://www.uniworld.com/ca/river-cruise/central-europe/rhine/rhine-moselle-and-belgium-grand-discovery/2025-basel-to-brussels

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Thank you for mentioning this topic, it had come up before but it is good to be reminded why cruises do not run in that time frame. Which strikes me then as you say

18 hours ago, Wombat706 said:

One Scenic cruiser has reported receiving a letter from Scenic advising of this and the actions they will take re alternate berthing and excursions etc

and as gnome12 said, this should not (have to) happen.

 

notamermaid

 

 

 

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The Moselle at Trier peaked at 960cm (!) late this afternoon and is now on the way down. This means the level is still rising at Cochem and the wave is also reaching Koblenz. The peak at Cochem should be early on Sunday (around 6am). Trier will not return to normal before Monday lunchtime (that is where the forecast ends).

 

notamermaid

 

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Trier gauge is now at 833cm, the situation should further ease during today so that likely we will see figures under 800cm by midnight. The peak of this wave is just passing through Cochem. Do have a look at the webcam at Koblenz, you can see the force of the rivers at Deutsches Eck, with the Moselle "ferociously" draining into the Rhine, the Moselle rather brown compared to the larger river.

https://www.feratel.com/webcams/deutschland/koblenz.html

 

Oh, and busy with river cruise ships at the dock.

 

notamermaid

 

Edited by notamermaid
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21 hours ago, Canal archive said:

Ural Guy it’s on YouTube search Bill Nighy or Worlds Most Scenic River Journeys.

 

The only one I found on YouTube is a 1.26 second bit. However I did see the Canadian Smithsonian channel is re-broadcasting the series, and after a lot of searching found it being shown next week. We saw it already, but I'm recording it again to see what to expect. 

 

Thanks for the mention, I had forgotten he did a show on it.

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Brief update. More rain is challenging the Saar valley and hills which is of course more work for the Moselle. The weather pattern is similar to a few days ago in that the East is seeing little rain:

image.png.9a10a0dce5c0395d6a87c748c157f6fb.png

But for now things are looking promising for the river. Trier is down to 557cm, Cochem to 519cm. At Koblenz the Moselle is also well past the peak as well.

 

notamermaid

 

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A tanker has hit the old bridge at Cochem. Earlier this evening the ship drifted too far to the left towards one of the arches and suffered considerable damage to the wheelhouse. One crew member sustained a mild injury, the captain seems okay. No leakage. It is no yet clear how much damage there is to the bridge.

 

notamermaid

 

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More details. The tanker first collided with a ship sailing downstream and then hit the bridge arch with the wheelhouse. Thankfully, it was confirmed that there was no leakage but the tanker was deemed unsafe to manoeuvre, the radar and instruments having suffered damage.  The bridge is under structural investigation, as I understand it, but I do not read that it is closed.

 

The river is of course still high so navigation under bridges is more tricky.

 

With embankment roads partially closed and some low lying villages and streets flooded, the tourist regions of the Moselle have suffered great losses over this past holiday weekend.

 

notamermaid

 

 

 

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