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Live from Ponant Le Laperouse, Intriguing Indonesia! March 7-16 2023


jpalbny
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20 hours ago, jpalbny said:

Korimako, it's roughly 50/50 this cruise. Bear in mind that this will vary by itinerary. For example, on our first Corsica cruise, there were fewer than 10 Anglophones. Which was great - we often got very small group tours. And they looked out for us very well.

 

Also, know that the Anglophone group is a big mixture. Besides the obvious American, Aussie/Kiwi, and British/Irish usual suspects, there are a number of German, Dutch, and Spanish speakers who use English as a second or third language. It's a fun mix!

 

But no worries about being in the minority. Have been there and it was lots of fun!

Thank you - but on re-reading my post, I think I may have not been clear. What I meant was I didn't want to be in a Francophone minority! I would prefer a Francophone majority.🙂

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22 minutes ago, Korimako said:

Thank you - but on re-reading my post, I think I may have not been clear. What I meant was I didn't want to be in a Francophone minority! I would prefer a Francophone majority.🙂

Then check for Ponant cruises on the Tauck website — and avoid those sailings!

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Monday, March 13th. Borneo! Tanjung Puting National Park. 

 

Since we were on the late expedition today, we slept in until 8:30 and then had coffee in the bar. We tried to fill out our Singapore electronic arrival declaration but apparently March 13th to March 16th is four days, not three. Hmm.

 

An early lunch at 11AM, in preparation for an 11:50 departure. The menu.

 

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We had dim sum and spring rolls to start, then the pork adobo. Tasty!

 

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We limited the wine and water intake because we will be on the zodiac for about five hours. 

 

There was some delay with the morning groups returning so we didn't set off until about 12:30.

 

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The ship's photography crew flew by.

 

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It was about five miles to the river mouth. Le Laperouse couldn't get closer as the water in the bay is very shallow. The river water looks like tea from all of the tannins.

 

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Lush and steamy. A beautiful landscape! 

 

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The reflections in the smooth water were really picturesque. 

 

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After a long voyage we arrived at the feeding platform. A mom with her baby. 

 

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Eventually she gave way to a solitary male.20230313_143243.thumb.jpg.bb9965cb01b51b25611ab22dd7fb3696.jpg

 

As she left, a long-tailed macaque jumped in for a quick bite.

 

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Eat while you can! The big guy is approaching. 

 

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We watched for a while from the zodiacs. It was hot, humid, and very sunny. Time to start moving before we melt!

Edited by jpalbny
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On 3/9/2023 at 4:45 PM, jpalbny said:

I played with the zoom on my phone. Can't believe this is a cell phone shot.

 

 

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I’ve been enjoying your photographs!  But on the moon shot you’re right to be skeptical, you’d need a giant lens to get that detail.  Do you have an Android phone, people have shown that they will substitute a stock image of the moon if it detects that’s what you’re shooting. 

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2 hours ago, SomeonesDH said:

I’ve been enjoying your photographs!  But on the moon shot you’re right to be skeptical, you’d need a giant lens to get that detail.  Do you have an Android phone, people have shown that they will substitute a stock image of the moon if it detects that’s what you’re shooting. 

 

That's both amazing and kind of creepy. Makes sense though, as most shots I've taken at that high of a zoom have much less detail.

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Monday March 13th, Tanjung Puting NP continued. 

 

After viewing the Orangutans at the feeding station, we headed back downriver to the ship. This was a pristine tropical river, with vegetation pressing in from both sides, and some tight squeezes.

 

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We were enjoying the trip regardless. 

 

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Someone managed to spot this crocodile along the river bank. Impressive! 

 

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As we drew nearer to the river mouth the vegetation got thinner. And the waterway opened up a bit. No shade, so hoping that the SPF60 works!

 

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From the river mouth,  it was a long choppy ride back to Le Lapérouse. Probably an hour to go five nautical miles. Our butts were sore! Though it looked stormy, the rain never came. So that was a plus.

 

Ponant have only offered this excursion for a few years. Our EL said that more people have summited Mt. Everest, than have visited this river. Hard to believe. But now you've read it on the internet so it must be true.

 

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Back on board finally by 5:45. We skipped the salsa lesson in favor of a shower, then rehydrated with a G&T in the lounge. Or two. We were really thirsty!

 

We had dinner with a German couple who we'd met on one of the bus tours a few days earlier. A fun night! 

 

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The amuse-bouche was a "poultry" roll filled with guacamole. 

 

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I got a bottle from the wine list to go with the starters.

 

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Chris had the quinoa starter and I had the octopus carpaccio. I have mixed feelings about eating octopus because they are such cool animals. But this was delicious. 

 

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Our companions got a bottle of red to go with the main course, which was a delicious preparation of duck breast. Ducks are cute too. But I have no problem eating them.

 

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Dessert was an "exotic" pavlova, or chocolate. 

 

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We went to the dance show after dinner then unwound in the bar before calling it a night.

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Got my e-docs from Ponant today for our Azores cruise next month.  The Travel Book includes a statement that "wearing a mask is mandatory when moving in all public areas" – but the Health Formalities document says "Wearing a mask onboard is highly recommended.  It can be required either by Captain or local authorities, either on board or ashore.  Mask is mandatory when in contact with medical crew."  The Health Formalities doc is dated today (March 14), so I assume that it is the latest and the Travel Book text is obsolete.

 

I went back through this thread, but all the pictures of you onboard are holding a drink [😅] so obviously you wouldn't have been wearing masks then.  What is the mask regime on your cruise overall?

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Thanks JP ( and Chris) for the great review. I have a question please. We will be on Le Laperouse in the Kimberley in July - and wondering how many folk (approx) are on each zodiac and if they use all 14 zodiacs each excursion?

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3 hours ago, Host Jazzbeau said:

What is the mask regime on your cruise overall?

 

The Captain "recommended" that we wear masks when he gave his introduction. He and the rest of the crew were maskless when he said that. A small handful of people are wearing them.

 

Interestingly, Korean Air still "requires" masks on board. The requirement is somewhat lax.

 

2 hours ago, vada_9 said:

Thanks JP ( and Chris) for the great review. I have a question please. We will be on Le Laperouse in the Kimberley in July - and wondering how many folk (approx) are on each zodiac and if they use all 14 zodiacs each excursion?

 

Hi vada_9, thanks for following along! They put 8-10 pax on each zodiac. 

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1 hour ago, jpalbny said:

Interestingly, Korean Air still "requires" masks on board. The requirement is somewhat lax.

 

 

There are still pockets of this. Masks are required on flights *to* Australia, but not on flights leaving Australia. Qantas enforced this rule strictly.

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Tuesday March 14th. Pi day at sea.

 

Another relaxing morning. Coffee in the bar then some time out back for some fresh air.

 

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We got an outside table for lunch.

 

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i have been craving the steak, but the duck leg was too much to pass up. And it was as great as it sounded. 

 

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From our table we had a view of the small islands that we were cruising past. The expedition crew went out to scout for a snorkeling spot. We had more wine.

 

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Eventually I had dessert.

 

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It was cooked perfectly. Chris had some too.

 

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Snorkeling is at 3PM. So we didn't have a second dessert. Back to the room to get ready. Here's a photo of the entrance to the dining room, my favorite part!

 

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Sadly the team couldn't find a good spot, so no snorkeling today. Instead, a lazy afternoon. Just a disembarkation talk. And drinks in the bar before dinner.

 

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We had an outdoor table for two. We noticed that the ship was still moving slowly. Apparently we'd taken on some customs officers from Indonesia, who needed to clear us to leave. 

 

The amuse-bouche spring roll.

 

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Seafood salad and a goat cheese tart for starters. 

 

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We got a bottle from the reserve list for our salmon. It was surprisingly full-bodied for a Sauvignon Blanc. So am I, after all of this great food!

 

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Now the strangest announcement ever. Apparently the officials had "lost their boat" so another boat had to be dispatched to come pick them up. How weird! The captain said that he's never "lost a boat" before...

 

Anyway. The salmon was delicious. 

 

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Dessert was the sabayon.

 

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After dinner the dancers put on a show in the bar. It's their last show, as they disembark in Singapore with us.

 

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The ship is undergoing a 2-week drydock so it will be all fresh and clean for the March 30th cruise. 

 

The show was followed by dancing in the bar. Then the party moved outside. Someone brought a Bluetooth speaker. We played music from our phones. More wine was found somewhere. And someone ended up in the pool. No photos, and names were changed to protect the innocent. 

 

We finally went to bed at 3AM. At least it's a sea day again tomorrow! 

Edited by jpalbny
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4 minutes ago, jpalbny said:

 

i have been craving the steak, but the duck leg was too much to pass up. And it was as great as it sounded. 

 

 

I definitely wouldn't choose steak over duck, but I notice that the Southern Fried Chicken Burger is offered on this ship -- it isn't always on the anytime list. If one can be a connoisseur of a fried chicken burger, this one beats Grandma's home cooked as well as Chik-fil-a and Popeye's.

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17 minutes ago, jpalbny said:

i have been craving the steak, but the duck leg was too much to pass up. And it was as great as it sounded. 

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Eventually I had dessert.

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It was cooked perfectly. Chris had some too.

 

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After seeing your success with duck, your praise of anyone else's carries much weight!

 

And I thought my admiration for you couldn't get any higher, but my hat is off to you for having the courage to choose Tarte de Rib-Eye for dessert!  [and to the Ponant chefs for cooking it a point!]

 

[I will send these pictures to the head chef of Windstar, to counter their latest announcement of a 'whole-foods, plant-based menu' – it had better not come at the expense of God's own animal-based protein!!!] 

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On 3/14/2023 at 11:05 PM, jpalbny said:

From our table we had a view of the small islands that we were cruising past. The expedition crew went out to scout for a snorkeling spot. We had more wine.   We got a bottle from the reserve list for our salmon. It was surprisingly full-bodied for a Sauvignon Blanc. So am I, after all of this great food!   After dinner the dancers put on a show in the bar. It's their last show, as they disembark in Singapore with us.   We finally went to bed at 3AM. At least it's a sea day again tomorrow! 

 

Appreciate, J.P., you sharing ALL of these amazing details about your sailing from Bali to Singapore.  Love the food, wine, adventure, etc., details and visuals.  Clearly, you are "suffering" so very, very much.  Such challenges??  Will you survive?   Look forward to any and all details from your visit to Singapore, what you loved most there, etc.  Keep up the great sharing!!

 

THANKS!  Enjoying!  Terry in Ohio

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We are having a great time in Singapore. Back to the cruise though! 

 

Wednesday March 15th. Sea day.

 

After the late night shenanigans we didn't get up until almost 9AM. We dragged ourselves to the bar for coffee and ran into some of the usual suspects. They looked a bit tired too.

 

At 11 we had a final recap, and briefing about disembarkation tomorrow. Basically, put luggage out by 6:30AM. Disembark between 8 and 9, clear immigration, grab bags, then clear customs. Our plan is to grab a taxi to the hotel and take it from there.

 

Lunch out back. Today's menu.

 

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I tried the Ponant burger and Chris had the steak. Both tasty. One end of Chris's steak was overcooked but the rest was reasonably medium-rare. Mine was done better yesterday. 

 

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We packed most of our stuff, and relaxed after lunch, trying to figure out a more detailed plan for Singapore tomorrow. 

 

At 4PM the captain had a reception out back on the pool deck, to thank the crew. Many are heading home after this cruise,  because the ship is undergoing a 2-week drydock. 

 

The "highlight" of the ceremony was when the captain tried to open a bottle of champagne with a saber. Here's the result of his first attempt. 

 

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Broken glass all over. The crew is cracking up. He eventually succeeded on try #3, and a toast was made.

 

Tonight's Gala Dinner was delicious. Here's the menu.

 

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We went with the classic menu as usual. The amuse-bouche, Parmesan cheese crumble with truffle cream.

 

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We used the last of our OBC to get a bottle of red. From Provence! How unusual. 

 

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Henry the sommelier knows his wines and we've enjoyed his selections. 

 

Two starters. Cold lobster tail with dill and apple-avocado creams. Then fried scallops with beurre blanc.

 

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A perfectly done filet. 

 

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Very dark chocolate for dessert, then mignardaises. 

 

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By now we are smart enough to avoid any last-night wild and crazy goings-on. We retired to our cabin immediately after dinner and went to bed. 

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Well, we are in the Changi airport getting ready to board in an hour or so. Sadly the trip is almost over.

 

(Edited to add: now it is. I couldn't finish this post before take-off, and there's no Wi-Fi on Korean Air. So I'm home.)

 

We've had a great time in Singapore but we are exhausted after three days of non-stop running around in the 88-90 degree heat. Time to catch up on the rest of the journey!

 

Thursday, March 16th. Disembarkation day.

 

I was up around 5AM and put the suitcases out. We were both up for good by 7 to watch us sailing in from our balcony. 

 

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We finished packing our backpacks and said goodbye to our suite a little before 8.

 

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Breakfast in the restaurant, then we waited outside on the pool deck. Our tags were called about 8:55 and we walked to immigration. The port building was a bit reminiscent of an airport. Lots of walking! 

 

About 15 minutes wait to clear immigration, then we walked some more to get our bags and join the customs queue. Another 10 minute wait and we were through. 

 

We exited the terminal and found taxis waiting. We were at the hotel before 9:40. A very efficient process! Our room wasn't quite ready of course so we had a coffee and then went out exploring. The hotel looked nice as we headed out. 

 

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We walked along the marina for views of the Fullerton Hotel,

 

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And the very famous Marina Bay Sands. An impressive structure! 

 

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We meandered slowly along the marina until we got to the Merlion statue.

 

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After crossing the Jubilee Bridge, we turned inland and walked by a war memorial. 

 

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We explored the mall at Raffles City. A little before 11AM we got a message that our room was ready. Great service! 

 

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On the way back, the Victoria Concert Hall.

 

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We checked in and found that we had been upgraded to a Bay view room. Sweet!

 

We basked in the AC for a bit to cool down, then headed out again to explore before our late lunch reservation. We took the Metro to Fort Canning Park and did a brief wander but we'll return there later. Time to eat!

 

Ron and Ann had recommended a restaurant and we were excited to try it. Whitegrass, in a historic old building called "CHIJMES."

 

We arrived right on time at 1:45 and were promptly seated. They serve two fixed menus. We had the executive lunch.

 

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There were several amuse bouches. Prawn sashimi and beluga caviar in the first picture. Unagi and a herb Madeleine cookie in the second.

 

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Both entrées were served. First, Hokkaido scallops over broccoli rabe with hazelnut sauce. Paired with sparkling sauvignon blanc from South of France.

 

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Then the braised beef tongue over red cabbage, with sautéed onions and microgreens with a Marlborough Pinot noir. It was very tasty, but a real challenge to not think about what it was.

 

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The market fish was some kind of snapper over Japanese clam and abalone cream sauce and Japanese parsley. Paired with sake. It was a tasty sake, though still not my favorite flavor profile.

 

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We had one of each main so they split them in half and served a mixed plate to both of us. 

 

Wagyu beef with grainy mustard seed on the left, paired with 2010 Italian red from Pecorino. So rich. Duck breast with port wine sauce and black miso was paired with a baby Amarone. 

 

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For intermezzo, cola sorbet over pineapple bits.

 

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Dessert was fresh strawberries on a biscuit with pistachio sorbet and foam. Rose petals, and raspberry sauce. The dessert wine was a Brachetto d'Acqui.

 

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Finally, mignardaises. Almond, honey, browned butter, and coffee cakes. Sweet green tea shortbread cookies. 

 

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That put us over the top. Time to move before we fall into a food and wine coma! An expensive lunch for sure, even with the favorable exchange rate (the Singapore dollar is about on par with the Canadian dollar so the price looks less painful in USD.

Edited by jpalbny
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Thursday, March 16th. First evening in Singapore.

 

After lunch we grabbed a bus that took us right to the hotel. I should mention that we'd purchased 3-day transport passes for S$30 each, and they are good on buses, trains, and the Metro (called MRT here). Not a bad deal for unlimited transport, including to the airport.

 

So we took the Metro to the Botanical gardens. Nice lighting as the afternoon progressed.

 

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We had to get to the zoo around 7:15 for the night safari, but we decided to try to get to the orchid garden first. Of course it was about a 15 minute walk from the Metro station. Should we go for it?

 

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Getting closer.

 

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So of course we did. If we're a little late to the night safari, no big deal. Quite a jungle here in the orchid garden!

 

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Just a few of the amazing selections on display here. The profusion of colors and forms was overwhelming.

 

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Some were on display outdoors and others were indoors in a cooler environment.

 

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Wait, this isn't an orchid! It's an Oriental Pied-Hornbill! That beak sure looks unwieldy.

 

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Now it was time to make haste back to the Metro station. We had to take two trains and then catch a shuttle bus to the zoo. Hope we can make it!

 

We got the trains easily. It was challenging to find the shuttle bus though! Eventually we did (at the third bus stop that we looked at) but we still arrived right on time at 7:15. We saw a gaggle of folks ahead of us following a lollipop - and realized that they were from the Viking Ocean ship that was docked next to us this morning!

 

We made haste, following two local girls who seemed to know what they were doing, and passed the large group before they clogged up the admissions lanes. And we were in!

 

The Night Safari was really cool (despite the hot, humid weather). There are several walking paths and a tram which takes you all around the park and gives you a nice overview in about 25 minutes. We went for the tram first before it got too crowded.

 

No pictures from the tram though, as the dim lighting and motion make that impossible. Once the ride was over we started along the four walking trails. They are laid out so that you can do them fairly sequentially, and end up back at the starting point. 

 

A few pics - this Fisher Cat was posing while its partner was prowling the river bank, chasing fish. The fish were all clustered on the opposite bank.

 

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The Clouded Leopard was having a nice snooze. So that made for an easy picture.

 

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We had seen the spotted hyena from the tram, on the prowl. When we circled back on foot the hyena was chilling out. Despite the nice pose, in the dim lighting this is the best I could get.

 

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A very pleasant evening! We spent about 2.5 hours here and could have done a little more. The only animal that we couldn't find was the Fossa, which disappointed Chris greatly. We tried to see one in Madagascar but came up empty there as well. So for now, it remains (to us) the "elusive" Fossa.

 

Back to the shuttle bus then the Metro. Racing against the clock to see if we can get back in time for last call at our rooftop bar at 11:15!

 

Made it with time to spare and even had a minute to shower and change first! Here's the view from our rooftop. With or without the tourist?

 

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We had some fries and fried chicken and some NZ Sauv Blanc before calling it a night around midnight. The rooftop pool looks inviting but I doubt we'll have time for that!

 

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3 hours ago, jpalbny said:

Thursday, March 16th. First evening in Singapore.  After lunch we grabbed a bus that took us right to the hotel. I should mention that we'd purchased 3-day transport passes for S$30 each, and they are good on buses, trains, and the Metro (called MRT here). Not a bad deal for unlimited transport, including to the airport.

 

Great updates, visuals, details from Singapore, etc.  We are considering a February 2024 Mumbai to Singapore sailing/adventure and am considering the amount of time best for that staying at the end in this amazing City-State. Been doing much reading to consider the various options for Singapore.  Would be our first time to visit there.  Look forward to seeing more of your postings, pictures and details from Singapore.  Glad you are home safe, but, yes, those were long flights back home to Albany, NY.  Appreciate the excellent sharing!!  Keep it coming. 

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

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Hi JP and Chris🙂, JP, just caught up reading and looking at the beautiful pictures. Sounds (and looks) likes you had a fantastic time.  Thanks for sharing your adventure with us!

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Thank you for all your hard work on this thread.  I don't think Indonesia will be for me despite the cool dragons (don't snorkel or swim anymore, and I cannot tolerate very high heat with high humidity for very long  -- I am no longer healthy as a horse, like you two apparently are!). But I took notes on other things as DH and I have a Ponant trip coming up very soon, and I am still considering another trip what would include Singapore (despite their requirement to declare and approve certain prescriptions medications I bring for personal use). 

DH has been to Singapore a couple times, but only for work so this would be a new experience  (he warned me that there is no point in showering in the morning  because I will be soaked with sweat head to foot as soon as I walk outside; so maybe just 2-3 nights  after a cruise would be long enough). 

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Thank you, @Catlover54. Indonesia was indeed beastly hot, mostly high 80s with high humidity and super intense sun. We were right near the equator, and almost at the Spring solstice, so the sun was directly overhead. 

 

I actually got some photokeratitis early on in the trip because I must not have worn my sunglasses enough,  while lounging in the shade at the resort. My eyes were killing me for a day and then took another day to feel close to normal.

 

The intense sunshine, heat, and humidity in this region are not to be taken lightly. We drank so much water, and still had trouble keeping up. Too bad that wine doesn't count!

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Friday, March 17th. St. Patrick's in Singapore.

 

We slept in until after 8 then went for breakfast at the hotel. An amazing buffet! So many different foods to try. And they serve nice strong coffee, which we needed after the late night.

 

We got ready for another day in the equatorial sun but unfortunately we kicked the last tube of sunscreen that we had brought before covering enough of our exposed skin. So we had to find more soon. Out we went into the blazing sun.

 

We walked around the Harbor to get a view of the Fullerton Bay.

 

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Found an underground mall (part of a Metro stop) and hopped in to look around. Nice AC and a respite from the sun. We found a drugstore with sunscreen, and bought some.

 

Suitably protected, we continued along the waterfront, passing in front of the huge mall connected to the Marina Bay Sands.

 

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So many large buildings! Our hotel (right side of the picture) looks dwarfed by them. The round building in the foreground is an Apple store. Most of the taller buildings are bank buildings.

 

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At the far end of the Harbor, the Helix Bridge. Neat structure. Its support beams are twisted into a double helix, like a DNA molecule.

 

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We went into the mall, then climbed to the roof and walked around outside, following signs to Gardens by the Bay. We walked nearer the Marina Bay Sands on this approach.

 

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The walkway passed through the hotel and after another short skybridge, we were in the Gardens. Here is the Dragonfly Bridge. And our first good view of the supertrees!

 

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Gardens by the Bay is free to enter, but for some of the attractions you need to buy tickets. You can take an elevator to the top of the tallest supertree for an overview, so that's what we did first.

 

From here you can see the two glass conservatories, and the top of another shorter supertree. In the distance, the Ferris wheel (which is closed for maintenance at this time).

 

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Next we went on the elevated walkway which connects two of the supertrees. The walkway is lower down than the observatory so the views are different. But while we were waiting for the elevator, a couple walked up behind us - and they were one of the couples we'd had dinner with on the cruise! Nice to see them again.

 

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The supertrees are interesting structures. Metal frames, tons of plants growing up the "trunks," and solar panels on top.

 

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Back on ground level, this odd statue called "Planet" is a baby boy, perfectly balanced on one hand.

 

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A leisurely stroll through different groves along the edges of the Gardens. The supertrees are always visible.

 

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We made it to the conservatories, and visited the Flower Dome. They had many nice groves within, with flowers and trees from all over the world arranged geographically. And a few surprises - like Pokemon characters. All the kids were posing for pictures with them.

 

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A nice cactus garden. This specimen looked beautiful in the sunlight.

 

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Fierce!

 

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We finished up and decided not to visit the second conservatory for now. Instead, we went back to the hotel to cool off, then took the Metro to Chinatown. Here we went to the Chinatown Complex to try our luck at the hawker center. We needed a little lunch.

 

Found some beef noodles and shared a bowl for S$7. Delicious. Not quite up to the level of yesterday's lunch, but also cost about 1% of the total. No wine, though.

 

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At the other side of the complex, the Temple of the Tooth.

 

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We slowly wandered the streets from temple to temple. Here's Thian Hock Keng Temple.

 

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After a few more temples we were looking for a rest stop, so we found a wine bar and sat inside with a glass of rose. And lots of water! This heat is exhausting.

 

Home for a shower and then dinner. We had arranged to meet one of my former students, who now lives here, for dinner. Since he'd finished training in 2021 during the height of the pandemic, it was the first time I'd seen him without a mask in more than 3 years!

 

He took us to another hawker center and we all shared a bunch of dishes. An amazing variety of food here, and nothing is very expensive. The place was packed on a Friday evening but we enjoyed the atmosphere and had a good chance to catch up.

 

Finished a very enjoyable evening with a drink and a photo opportunity at our rooftop bar before letting him go, since he has to work for a few hours on Saturday morning. 

 

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So not a bad day - only 24,000 steps today as opposed to yesterday's crazy total of 31,500. I'm going to need a vacation to recover from this trip! Unfortunately it's back to work on Monday for both of us.

 

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