Barely A Live from Escape May16-26 2024 Trieste (Venice) to Barcelona/10-Day Mediterranean: Italy Croatia Greece France Spain

[Sugar Magnolia]

Day 7 Civitavecchia (Rome) 

 

As I have visited Rome a few times and we were more than half way through our 10-day port intensive cruise, I gave myself a break and opted not to book any excursions for this port. Instead, I took the train into Rome and leisurely walked around for a few hours.

 

I wrote about my train ride experience in Posts #198 and #199. It was a good refresher course for me in case I sail out of Civitavecchia later this year.

 

[debenson0723]

I just love all your photos.  Thank you again for sharing with us. 

[aussierangers]

Great memories - Ravello is also a favourite of ours.  We took the ferry to Amalfi from Salerno, it was a Sunday and the whole Amalfi coast was chock full of visitors including Italian families on their day out.  We took a little bus up to Ravello, it took ages because of the traffic, but we were happy to look at the views during the ride.  After lunch in Ravello, we walked down to the next bay, through tiny villages and market gardens.  We saw about 2 other people, a nice change from the crowds.  We ferried back to Salerno, it was a magical day.  The ferry ride back was gorgeous as we stopped in at several other places to drop off and pick up passengers.

 

This time around, we're going to Pompeii from Naples, under our own steam.  We have done many non ship tours, we always research them thoroughly and make sure we have a Plan B for getting back to the ship. So far, no problems. Many tour operators will provide a guaranteed ship return, they know their reputation depends on it and we find they usually bring you back a couple of hours before last call.

 

We're also excited because our cabin assignment just popped up for Viva!

[ontheweb]

9 hours ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

Day 6 Naples, Italy - Small Group Private Excursion to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello with Di Sarno Car Service / 8 hours / $90

 

Some of the most popular excursions from Naples are to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius and for good reasons; along with the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill in Rome they are all ancient sites of historical significance in this part of the world. Since I have been to these places, some more than once, I felt no need to visit again and usually opt to visit the Amalfi Coast when porting in Naples.

 

Through the GetYourGuide app/website, I booked a small group excursion to visit the coastal towns of Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. Sorrento, Capri and Anacapri are also popular but Ravello is my favorite. Di Sarno Car Service was listed as the tour operator for this excursion so I did some quick research and found out that they have been in business for a long time and received good reviews. The other tour operator I noticed doing pickups at the port was WorldTours.

 

I appreciate that when booking through online agents like GetYourGuide or Viator, you usually do not need to pay for the excursion until two or three days prior and often cancelable within 24 hours of the excursion.

 

There have been numerous discussions about whether it is prudent to book non-NCL excursions, to which I reply...do your own thorough research and make your own decisions based on your own preference, priorities and comfort level. It is a simple fact that NCL cannot offer enough excursions to 4,000+ passengers, so many of us will need to book private excursions. Also, there have been many less than glowing reviews from my fellow passengers of the shore excursion operations. One of many complaints was about excursions canceling or changing at the last minute for Rome and Barcelona. I, myself, am not a fan of large coach tours offered by NCL.

 

When I booked this non-NCL excursion, I knew that there was always a possibility that I might not be able to return to the ship at the all aboard time for reasons beyond anyone's control. However, I did my research and found out that the tour operator was reputable, Naples is not far from our next port (Civitavecchia/Rome) with plenty of travel options in case I have to make my own way, and I always carry money, credit cards and passport because I travel solo and rely on myself when things go wrong. I understand that this path may go beyond the comfort level for others, but I know I am as well-prepared as I can be to deal with any unforeseen consequences. And I am insured to the hilt.

 

I shall now step down from my soapbox.

 

The Naples Marine Terminal is one of the more interesting port terminals I have visited...certainly more impressive than, say, the Manhattan Cruise Terminal. Built in the 1930s during the Mussolini fascist regime, the terminal reminds me of those massive older buildings in Beijing that appear to be devoid of any living beings because they are so big.

 

 

 

 

 

The private excursion operators are all waiting in the area as soon as you walk through this structure.

 

 

 

Ferries and hydrofoils are nearby for excursions to other coastal towns.

 

 

 

 

 

Castel Nuovo but seems old to me...built in the 13th century and rebuilt in the 15th century.

 

 

I met our tour guide Luigi at the designated area right outside the terminal exit along with 15 other travelers. Only four others were cruisers like me. It makes sense to keep the groups small as I can't imagine a large coach maneuvering through the small towns along the Amalfi Coast. We piled into a comfortable Mercedes minivan and started our journey by 8:00am. 

 

Our first stop was Positano but there were many interesting sights along the way.

 

Fincantieri, the ship builders for the Prima, Viva and Aqua has a location here, though the actual shipyard for those ships is located closer to Venice. I should have kept my antennae up for the Aqua when I was in the area a few weeks ago.

 

 

Town of Vico Equense

 

 

 

 

 

Luigi said that La Villetta Paradiso is known to be the most romantic place to propose marriage. I did not ask whether those marriages are known to last.

 

 

 

Seiano Train Station

 

 

Town of Meta

 

 

 

 

 

 

Positano is a popular seaside resort known for its vertical town and pebble beach. We spent one hour here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Le Sirenuse is a luxury hotel in Positano I was fortunate enough to visit many years ago when it was still affordable. Now I can only steal glimpses from afar.

 

 

 

Town of Praiano

 

 

 

 

Sophia Loren's former home in Conca Dei Marini

 

 

 

The Town of Amalfi was the busiest of the three towns we visited. We spent two hours here. We were hoping to take a 45-minute boat ride for a different view of the Amalfi Coast, but unfortunately the water was too rough to sail.

 

 

 

 

 

Lunch was a giant hero sandwich with grilled octopus and potatoes. I did not think I could finish it but it was delicious so I managed. At €10 I thought it was a typical tourist lunch price. Most people ordered the popular cone of mixed fried seafood but I was not in the mood for anything fried.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And to top off the visit to Amalfi...pistachio gelato

 

 

 

 

 

Ravello was a welcomed respite after the hustle and bustle of Amalfi. Set 365 meters above the Tyrrhenian Sea, Ravello is a resort town best known for its music festival in the summer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were back at the Naples Marine Terminal before 5:30 with more than an hour to spare before all aboard time at 6:30. It was  another long day but I was happy to be back for another visit to the Amalfi Coast. Arrivederci!

 

We did Herculaneum on our own from Naples. My most vivid memory of it was that it was very, very hot.

 

Very nice pictures, but do you actually get to experience things or are you just taking pictures? I know once we were on an escorted land trip and DW had us go back to an astronomical clock on our free time. I asked her why since we had already seen it on the escorted tour and why would we wait a considerable amount of time for something that happened only for I forget whether it was for only 15 or 30 seconds. Her answer was when taking pictures, she really did not get to experience it.

 

Another time we were in Edinburg on a British Isles cruise and when having dinner, she hung up her camera while in the ladies' room and it fell. The lens ended up broken. I have a feeling that she really got to enjoy the Scottish Military Tattoo a lot more than if she had been constantly framing pictures for herself to take. (Luckily onboard she was able to buy a new lens the same make as her camera and take pictures the rest of the cruise. I gave a write up as a crew member who really made our cruise more enjoyable for the crew member from the photography who really helped her out with the new lens and its features despite being busy selling photographs.) (WOW, I just remembered his name, Goran from Croatia, despite the fact that the cruise was in the summer of 2014, almost 10 years ago!)

Edited June 5 by ontheweb

[Sugar Magnolia]

7 hours ago, aussierangers said:

Great memories - Ravello is also a favourite of ours.  We took the ferry to Amalfi from Salerno, it was a Sunday and the whole Amalfi coast was chock full of visitors including Italian families on their day out.  We took a little bus up to Ravello, it took ages because of the traffic, but we were happy to look at the views during the ride.  After lunch in Ravello, we walked down to the next bay, through tiny villages and market gardens.  We saw about 2 other people, a nice change from the crowds.  We ferried back to Salerno, it was a magical day.  The ferry ride back was gorgeous as we stopped in at several other places to drop off and pick up passengers.

 

This time around, we're going to Pompeii from Naples, under our own steam.  We have done many non ship tours, we always research them thoroughly and make sure we have a Plan B for getting back to the ship. So far, no problems. Many tour operators will provide a guaranteed ship return, they know their reputation depends on it and we find they usually bring you back a couple of hours before last call.

 

We're also excited because our cabin assignment just popped up for Viva!

 

I am very excited for you. Viva is a beautiful ship, and being in the Mediterranean in August you will be able to use the outside space. Be prepared for the heat and the crowds, though. My tolerance for both has dwindled as I aged, but I found gelato cures all.

 

When I first visited the Amalfi Coast years ago, English was still not widely spoken and Google translate was still 30+ years into the future. Between non-verbal communications, poorly published bus schedules, and a disdain for foreign travelers,  I only managed to get lost five times in three days.

 

[schmoopie17]

(Unfortunately) I decided to skip through your pictures of the Amalfi Coast, since we will be there in three months, making the same stops as you, and I don't want to spoil the surprise (oops...there's that word again).

 

Our group of four has booked a private tour for a total price of $450 euro...not bad for a private tour. We're using a very highly regarded and popular company (known for entertaining their customers on the ride) who has been doing these tours for years without incident. I get that it is a risk, but like you said, if worse comes to worse, our next stop isn't far. 

[Sugar Magnolia]

5 minutes ago, schmoopie17 said:

(Unfortunately) I decided to skip through your pictures of the Amalfi Coast, since we will be there in three months, making the same stops as you, and I don't want to spoil the surprise (oops...there's that word again).

 

Our group of four has booked a private tour for a total price of $450 euro...not bad for a private tour. We're using a very highly regarded and popular company (known for entertaining their customers on the ride) who has been doing these tours for years without incident. I get that it is a risk, but like you said, if worse comes to worse, our next stop isn't far. 

 

OK I won't take offense. We all love surprises! 

 

[Hogladyrider]

@Sugar Magnolia....WOWZA what fantastic pics and memories, looks FANTASTIC!

[Sugar Magnolia]

35 minutes ago, Hogladyrider said:

@Sugar Magnolia....WOWZA what fantastic pics and memories, looks FANTASTIC!

Thank you. It was a busy itinerary but I enjoyed it. Not really a vacation but more like a 34-day adventure if also counting my Prima TA. 
 

[CruisingSince1982]

We were on this sailing as well. Great trip! Outside of Italy, one of my favorite meals on the ship was the Seafood Linguine at Bayamo. I was just looking over the "sample" menu on the NCL website, and that dish is not listed. I hope this is because it's a sample menu, and not because they got rid of the dish. It was delicious! 

[Sugar Magnolia]

34 minutes ago, CruisingSince1982 said:

We were on this sailing as well. Great trip! Outside of Italy, one of my favorite meals on the ship was the Seafood Linguine at Bayamo. I was just looking over the "sample" menu on the NCL website, and that dish is not listed. I hope this is because it's a sample menu, and not because they got rid of the dish. It was delicious! 

That is good to know. I will order the seafood linguine next time I am at Bayamo on the Escape. Glad to hear you had a great time as well. 
 

[Sugar Magnolia]

On 5/26/2024 at 7:03 PM, debenson0723 said:

Or you could just @schmoopie17 us and show up at the Cavern Club bar on the Waterfront at 5:30. I promise I won't be mad for being surprised. 

 

I love how @schmoopie17 has entered the CC lexicon...as in how do we @schmoopie17 our dear friend for his upcoming birthday.

 

[schmoopie17]

12 hours ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

 

I love how @schmoopie17 has entered the CC lexicon...as in how do we @schmoopie17 our dear friend for his upcoming birthday.

 

You one has arrived when one is referred to as a verb.

Of course, at my age, it's not much of an action verb.

[graphicguy]

2 hours ago, schmoopie17 said:

You one has arrived when one is referred to as a verb.

Of course, at my age, it's not much of an action verb.

Or.....as...

 

"you've been schmoopied"...or, "have you been schmoopieing, again?"

 

 

[ontheweb]

5 hours ago, schmoopie17 said:

You one has arrived when one is referred to as a verb.

Of course, at my age, it's not much of an action verb.

Hang on Schmoopie, hang on.

 

Or should that be Hang of Sloopy? I guess I am also showing my age,

[JIMESOPUS]

What does Schmoopie mean on Seinfeld?

 

Schmoop is used to describe fanfic with a very sweet romance between two characters. Some fans see schmoop as a further escalation of fluff.[1]

The term may have originated with the faux term of endearment "schmoopy" used on an episode of Seinfeld;[2] in the show, both halves of a nauseatingly cuddly couple referred to one another as "schmoopy," thereby annoying everyone around them. Schmoop stories are sometimes characterized (by the author or by readers) as being so sweet as to be barely tolerable. Generally, this interpretation is considered good-natured, however.

[schmoopie17]

1 hour ago, ontheweb said:

Hang on Schmoopie, hang on.

 

Or should that be Hang of Sloopy? I guess I am also showing my age,

You're the real McCoy.

Oops...now I'm showing my age.

[Sugar Magnolia]

4 minutes ago, JIMESOPUS said:

What does Schmoopie mean on Seinfeld?

 

Schmoop is used to describe fanfic with a very sweet romance between two characters. Some fans see schmoop as a further escalation of fluff.[1]

The term may have originated with the faux term of endearment "schmoopy" used on an episode of Seinfeld;[2] in the show, both halves of a nauseatingly cuddly couple referred to one another as "schmoopy," thereby annoying everyone around them. Schmoop stories are sometimes characterized (by the author or by readers) as being so sweet as to be barely tolerable. Generally, this interpretation is considered good-natured, however.

 

@schmoopie17 do you consider yourself nauseating or cuddly?

 

[schmoopie17]

Just now, JIMESOPUS said:

What does Schmoopie mean on Seinfeld?

 

Schmoop is used to describe fanfic with a very sweet romance between two characters. Some fans see schmoop as a further escalation of fluff.[1]

The term may have originated with the faux term of endearment "schmoopy" used on an episode of Seinfeld;[2] in the show, both halves of a nauseatingly cuddly couple referred to one another as "schmoopy," thereby annoying everyone around them. Schmoop stories are sometimes characterized (by the author or by readers) as being so sweet as to be barely tolerable. Generally, this interpretation is considered good-natured, however.

Mrs. Schmoopie and I met the old fashioned way...on the internet. 

 

In my internet dating profile I included the requirement that any prospective dates be a fan of the "Seinfeld" show. To my surprise, Mrs. Schmoopie (she had a different name at the time) was able to engage in back and forth dialogue from practically every episode. The famous "Schmoopie" episode included the lines. "You're a Schmoopie". "No, YOU'RE a Schmoopie". Somehow, I began calling her Schmoopie.

 

The rest is history.

[schmoopie17]

6 minutes ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

 

@schmoopie17 do you consider yourself nauseating or cuddly?

 

I'm cuddly until you get to know me. Then I'm nauseating.

[Sugar Magnolia]

9 minutes ago, schmoopie17 said:

Mrs. Schmoopie and I met the old fashioned way...on the internet. 

 

In my internet dating profile I included the requirement that any prospective dates be a fan of the "Seinfeld" show. To my surprise, Mrs. Schmoopie (she had a different name at the time) was able to engage in back and forth dialogue from practically every episode. The famous "Schmoopie" episode included the lines. "You're a Schmoopie". "No, YOU'RE a Schmoopie". Somehow, I began calling her Schmoopie.

 

The rest is history.

 

It frightens me that I know what you are talking about.

 

[Sugar Magnolia]

Day 8 Livorno (Florence/Pisa) - NCL Shore Excursion: Discovering the Ligurian Coast by Rubber Boat / 8 hours / $189

 

When was I looking at my photos taken on the day we ported in Livorno, I noticed that “Leghorn” showed up on my phone as the destination. I started laughing because I was thinking about Foghorn Leghorn, that zany Looney Tunes character. Sure enough, Livorno is known as Leghorn in English, but no relation to the giant rooster. That little tidbit was not on the Freestyle Daily.

 

However, the Freestyle Daily did mention that walking is not allowed at the pier in Livorno as it is an industrial pier. If you did not book a NCL excursion that picks you up at the pier just as you step off the ship, then you must take the shuttle service to the city center offered by the Livorno Port Authority for €7 roundtrip. It is a 10-minute ride to the city center.

 

If you have an independent tour, you can meet your tour operator “inside the terminal building or at the pier area.” That is verbatim from the Freestyle Daily but I do not know exactly what that means. This may or may not be the terminal building. Perhaps someone with experience can tell us.

 

 

I did not have to use the shuttle service because I booked a NCL shore excursion…"Discovering the Ligurian Coast by Rubber Boat," which I highly recommend. However, I like to suggest to NCL to rename the excursion to Poets and Pesto…two words that succinctly capture the essence of this captivating region that also happen to be anagrams.

 

The Ligurian Coast, commonly known as the Italian Riviera, is the area of Italy along the Ligurian Sea from La Spezia in the east to the French border in the west. This beautiful coastal area is dotted with colorful picturesque villages including Lerici, Portovenere, Cinque Terre, Portofino, Sanremo and Genoa, the capital city of Liguria. I visited the area a few years ago on an organized hiking trip but was able to really appreciate Liguria this time at a more relaxed pace.

 

On this excursion, we visited the villages of Lerici and Portovenere, each located on the opposite sides of the Gulf of La Spezia, romantically known as the Gulf of Poets which inspired bards such as Lord Byron and Mary and Percy Shelley as well as other writers, thinkers and artists. Some scholars also believe that Botticelli’s painting “The Birth of Venus" was inspired by a woman named Simonetta Cattaneo Vespucci from Portovenere…port of Venus.

 

There were 16 of us on this excursion. We boarded a minibus that took us from Livorno to Lerici with one comfort stop. During the comfort stop at a very nice gas station that served the best looking breakfast sandwiches, our driver was randomly searched and tested for blood alcohol by the police. Our tour guide mentioned that this was not unusual. Fortunately, our driver passed and we were on our way. 

 

After arriving in Lerici, we walked from the minibus to the dock while admiring this view. It was difficult not to immediately be drawn in by this alluring yet unassuming town.

 

 

That imposing and impressive structure is the Castello di Lerici, first built in the 12th century with improvements and additions made up to the 16th century. The commanding presence of the Castello strikes a powerful message of warning to maritime rivals.

 

 

Soon we board these rubber boats for an exhilarating ride to Portovenere.

 

 

The skies looked foreboding, but fortunately for us, the rain gods were not at work that day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Portovenere

 

 

 

High on the hilltop are the San Lorenzo Bell Tower and the Doria Castle. The castle, built between the 12th and 14th centuries, was a strategic stronghold for the Republic of Genoa.

 

 

 

The Church of San Pietro was built on the site of a 5th century church and consecrated in the 12th century. Romanesque in style, the black and white bands were added in the 13th century. Unfortunately, I was unable to enter the church that day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

They must know that bare legs are too risqué for church.

 

 

 

 

 

 

"This grotto was the inspiration of Lord Byron. It records the immortal poet who as a daring swimmer defied the waves of the sea from Portovenere to Lerici.” Ironically, his good friend Percy Shelley drowned in a boating accident during a storm off the coast of the Gulf of Poets.

 

 

Lord Byron's Grotto...haunting and hypnotizing

 

 

 

Church of San Lorenzo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was lunch time so I headed back to Via Giovanni Capellini, the main thoroughfare through town.

 

 

 

 

The trofie al pesto was delicious at La Medusa...so simple so scrumptious. They do not overuse garlic in Italy so even after eating pesto for lunch, I did not have garlic breath for the rest of the day. The pasta, large bottle of sparkling water plus the Italian cover charge was just under €20. 

 

 

Trofie galore

 

 

 

 

 

 

Liguria is well-known for its pesto focaccia but I will have to return another day to sample that delicacy. But while I was here, the cornetti were calling for me.

 

 

 

Cornetti, or the singular cornetto, are the Italian version of the croissant, except the cornetto pastries have a crunchier texture than a croissant. I ordered one filled with pistachio cream and one filled with lemon cream. I now need to go searching for these delectable delights closer to home.

 

 

 

Pro Loco in Italy are volunteer organizations that promote a particular place and in this case…Portovenere. 

 

 

 

The Grand Hotel Portovenere

 

 

 

To be continued...

 

[Sugar Magnolia]

Day 8 Livorno (Florence/Pisa) - continued

 

After spending about two hours in Portovenere on our own, we hopped back on the rubber boats to return to Lerici.

 

 

 

Here again is medieval fortress Castello di Lerici.

 

 

Arrivederci to our capable and handsome pilots.

 

 

 

 

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi in Lerici

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oratorio di San Rocco

 

 

 

 

 

 

Church of San Francesco d'Assisi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perhaps a bard in training awaiting inspiration

 

 

After spending an hour and a half on our own in Lerici, we boarded the minibus for the one hour drive back to the ship.

 

I had a great time on the Ligurian Coast visiting the villages of Lerici and Portovenere. They had all the charm of Cinque Terre but without the crowds. I can't wait to return.

 

[Sugar Magnolia]

Day 9 Cannes, France

 

I did not book any excursions while porting in Cannes as I prefer to explore the Côte d'Azur region on my own. I wrote about my day in Cannes in Posts 237 to 248.

 

[dexddd]

Rubber boats?  If only they had some good 'ole NCL marketing they'd call them zodiacs but there might be trademark issues.