Catlover54

Also just saw your Douro cruise video. Once again, totally enchanting, professional quality cinematography. I noticed there were what looked like some drone shots in Portugal (unfortunately not allowed in Antarctica) My DH is the one who does the photography (he is not a professional, but he primarily travels to take pictures). I will have to start stalking, err, I mean "following", your trips 🙂

Simply stunning video. Brilliant editing, timing, haunting and mesmerising music. Thank you so much for sharing this.

One of the two pools on Rotterdam is supposed to be either for adults only (so no kids), or no kids under 16 unless accompanied by adult (I saw several interpretations when I was on a few months ago, depending on which staff were working). At that time there were almost no kids on board (but it was not break time -- will you be on where there is spring break?). Both pools were full during nice weather and not at all serene during prime time (i.e., afternoons and sea days). Off prime times (e.g., mornings when people are just heading off on excursions in port, and after dinner it was quieter, i.e., just after opening and just before closing, though music continued to be pumped in. The serenist places during nice weather and prime time were in my cabin, or walking on the exercise loop deck. It is still a lovely ship in other ways , however, and is popular with seniors, so that tells you something. With proper strategy (i.e., doing things at atypical times -- like staying on board when people go into ports), you will likely be happier than on RCL. You could also consider a semi-luxury cruise (e.g., Silversea or Seabourn ), where the atmosphere is usually *very* quiet, but even there people jockey for position at the pools in prime time (they just spend more money doing it). Have a wonderful time next spring!

I am glad you are finding SS very good (though the newer ships are better). I avoid minestrone wherever I cruise as there are so many other wonderful dishes on HL, so I cannot relate to your minestrone disdain (reminds me too much of a certain American canned soup, though I realize some minestrones are better than others -- but the cream of cauliflower or mushroom is delightful) 🙂 There are certainly some things on HL which could be more luxurious, but especially on Europa, I stick with simpler well-prepared dishes (in the main restaurant and not the Yacht Club except for the Bavarian fest) or maybe a European meats and cheese breakfast outside. My tastes are probably more old-fashioned than the more elaborate ones you prefer (e.g., I usually avoid lobster and crabs and instead focus on a large serving of that lovely Prunier or Aki caviar they have, with key trimmings, and fish dishes in sauce. Hot soups and mains are always hot, cold dishes are always cold (unlike on SB), the service is well-organized, and I love to just sink into the soft seats in the calm dining room and let my mind wander as I gaze out the window as we quietly sail, enjoying such luxuries that most people on board who are my age never imagined they would ever experience when they were children. There is also no loud and obnoxious pumped in music playing everywhere you go (like on way too many lines), which helps raise my appetite 🙂 , and the base rooms have easy tubs so I can soak my sore muscles after an excursion. Reception also answers the phone in less than 10 seconds if not 5. On my cruise last month, I also noticed many of the Tunisians (who were decently trained) are gone and some German and east European waiters are back, as before (equally decently trained), which makes light conversation easier.. As for the "extremely rough wine prices" you saw on Explora, am I imagining it or have the wine prices on HL also gone up quite a bit the last two years on the premium wines, out of proportion to the increase in cruise prices? I think 2x is reasonable (though many wines on HL were just 1.5x before) for a cruise, but 2.5-3x or higher markups irritate me a bit so I may then stick with one of the open wines for 250cc only, which are decent enough when paired well.

1. Yes! It is indeed important to know if positive reviews and glowing comments about a cruise line are made by TAs and influencers, and/or people getting special attention (as happens for various reasons on other luxury lines) or by "ordinary punters" paying luxury prices out of their own after-tax pockets, i.e., people who are not in the luxury food and beverage/hospitality sales industry and who also make their status known to ship staff so they get more attention. This is true not just for reviews and comments made on the more famous social media, but also comments made on CC. Ethically, I think people full of praises should disclose if they are in the TA or similar business. I have been on the same cruises as such people when the glowing experiences they have reported defy my own objective experiences and observations (especially when they choose to omit glaring negative facts). It leads me to be skeptical of anything else they post, when I already know everything they say about a ship will be described as wonderful, e.g., where you could pre-write the review. 2. I have held back on booking Explora until it has a solid track record because I have had too many other wonderful options at sea and on land (I mix and match). I had hoped to book a cruise with Explora for 2024, but I dislike crowded and loud buffets and close quarters, which some are describing. So if it turns out, after the initial break-ins, that mere mortals won't be able to regularly get seated for relaxing meals without stress and schemes and strategies like people have to use on some lines to fully enjoy their cruises, Explora will not get my business. So far, my Hapag Lloyd cruises, despite some minor esoteric issues (like how to get staff to properly coordinate delivery of my selected wines with my food pairings) , remain my gold standard for comparison of luxury at sea experiences, with SS running second overall for me and first for an English language line. The "ship within a ship" or similar concept also has a lot of appeal to me (i.e., pay more, and expect to get better service). 3. Some other things I don't like on the Explora layout I see is that you have to get a higher level cabin to get a bathtub (the modern trend is anti-tub) , and just like many other modern lines, they have an abundance of chairs that are low semi-circles, i.e., go half way up your back (so they press), and have no arm rests. I know that is stylish, (the new Crystal also has it), but I don't like it. As for food and beverages -- well, it will depend on how everything offered tastes, and what wines will be available for extra charges (and some high end soft cheese offerings wouldn't hurt either :).

Good to know that there are no toilets on this excursion. Practical issues like that often tend to be omitted by the likely young and healthy people writing the excursion descriptions (not just on Viking, but on most lines). Guests can wear Arctic style clothing and use hand warmers and even bring a thermos with their own drinks to stay warm. But unless they have bladders that can expand to the size of cantaloupes (or are men capable of moderate stealth) 4+ hours without a toilet or even an outhouse opportunity (even if drinking absolutely nothing beforehand the day of the excursion) does not work for many women, especially senior women.

Thank you for taking the time to answer my many questions. I hope your wife's surgery went well, and that she is appropriately recovering. As we are now able to travel more in retirement (Covid didn't slow us down too much), both on land and sea, with tours and independently, I wonder how we're supposed to find time for all our pesky medical appointments and procedures -- couldn't they just go away and stop bothering us until we're finished :)? I spent another couple hours looking at your recent Patagonia trip, including the many beautiful nature pictures, thank you! I appreciate that you reported the few downsides there were (so travelers can be prepared) along with the many upsides, and the net balance. I also enjoy your dry, observant humor. If I am correct, you are booked on the SS Whisper in Australia. That is an older ship, without a lot of the upgrades (especially on foods and ambience) that the Moon and Dawn have (and presumably Nova will also have). Though some love her, don't give up on SS if you are disappointed about a few things there -- SS has many great itineraries. I also wouldn't worry too much about the dress code (within reason), unless you feel you have to eat a full meal in the main dining room every single night and don't want to bring even one jacket and tie. If they are in the mood for enforcement, you can order course by course for your suite, or eat at the alternative venues. DH and I were not crazy about the double Prestige suite on Ponant with the couch. We enjoyed the closet space, but mostly we just kept bumping into oddly placed furniture, and didn't think the extra cost was worth it, and it may not be worth it to you either as you don't have a lot of stuff you to store. Also a word of caution about Classic Journeys. We did a Greece trip with them a few years ago, and we were underwhelmed. There was a tremendous amount of surreptitious cost cutting and the guide we were stuck with was horrible and arrogant and made clear he hated having to 'serve' on affluent Americans. Worse, their response to my 8-page letter outlining my concerns was pathetic and unapologetic. We throw their catalogues straight into the recycler. Hopefully things are better now (Italian Lakes are lovely).

Thanks! Good to know that you can drink local wine you buy if you pay corkage. How do the logistics work getting it on and to your room, e.g., when there is a line of tired people trying to get back on the ship, do you declare your wine to the guy scanning your cabin card, or are you sent somewhere on the side where they count how many bottles you have and make a record of it before letting you on? Or do they take the wine and promise to bring it back that night once they get the charges onto your account? Can you do the same $20 corkage for other liquors (e.g., local brandies or local rum), or only wine?

(Relative newbie here): Is it correct that wine you buy in ports cannot be drunk anywhere on the ship, not even if you pay a big corkage fee, unless it is one bottle from a ship's winery tour? If so, do you bring a special wine caddy (a protected wine suitcase you can check) to fly your wine home? It would be fun (for a fee, of course) to be able to drink local wines while one is in the local area where one is traveling, e.g., and drink it with the local cheese and other goodies brought back to the ship (but not a requirement for us -- I was overall pleased with the Rotterdam's wine list on the one cruise I have done on her so far). Thanks to everyone for providing so much information and detail about your experiences!

Can the windows in the berths be opened (e.g., through which to take photos?). And how is the air conditioning -- can it comfortably keep up with Australia's high temperaturees?

That style is 'hip and in'. Anyone who doesn't like it is a hopelessly dated unstylish and biased senior. That would include me 🙂 I prefer heavily cushioned seats with arm rests. However, much as I dislike such spartan chairs, cruising isn't just about the chairs (despite my not being as fit as some posters here). The chair status is just one small contributing factor. Itinerary remains #1 for me, and #2 is whether or not I will have daily battles and headaches getting basic service in restaurants and at guest services (i.e., if I will have to be a VIP ot travel agent to enjoy my cruise). I like mixing and matching my cruise lines, and it is wonderful to have so many choices.

I don't know what S/2/0 is, but thank you for your input. I think post #111 tried to address the question. I would be less likely to give a generous cabin attendant tip in cash if I knew it was just going into a generic pool (and I definitely understand all the "back of the house works just as hard" arguments). There's something about one-on-one interactions/work/reward that appeals to many of us.

If pax do *not* remove the daily service charge from their bill, are then waiters, bartenders, and cabin attendants allowed to keep tips for themselves, or must they go into a pool? Does it matter if the tip is cash or charged to the ship account?

I sailed on this ship last January but it was only 10 days, so didn't get to try everything I wanted to try. I have another booking, and to properly plan, have a few questions: 1. Caviar: What kind of caviar is offered on Rotterdam? Are there several kinds? How big are the portions (30 grams, 50 grams?) , and what is the charge (if there is only one kind)? Do you have to order it in the restaurants, or can you order it for elsewhere on the ship (lounges, cabin, pool area, etc.)? 2. Is there a limit to how many times one can dine in Pinnacle for lunch? I understand there is a charge (and that has gone up), and availability is only after one boards. 3. I managed to get to the Dutch cafe a couple times, and loved the food offerings, but was confused about the hours and the best way to optimize strategy to use it. I had gone by a couple other times but lines were very long and it was hard to figure out how things were supposed to work (especially if there was no seating). Can one order Dutch cafe items to be sent to one's cabin (for a charge), perhaps on the app., or by phone, especially when it is crowded? 4. Where can one get freshly squeezed juices (like grapefruit)? Thank you in advance for any replies!

What is a "floating pontoon", and why is it a better way to board zodiacs? Does anyone have a picture of one and how it works?

A few comments and questions: 1. You mentioned you had a cheese selection on the ship. I had been disappointed with the cheeses on our Ponant cruise out of Ireland, but then thought it was a one-off. On Hapag Lloyd recently I had choices of several dozen fine cheeses on board (including some of my soft favorites). A sampling of one night's cheese board offer included "L'Ami du Chambertin, Bleu des Basques, Brie, Geramont, Gorgonzola, Morbier, Munster, Pont-l'Eveque, Reblochon, Scamorza, Stilton". Another night offered Camembert, Comte, Epoisses, Geramont, Langres, Picandou, Scamorza." How was your cheese selection on this cruise, compared with those on HL that I listed? I'm not going to pick a cruise just for cheese, but considering I can make a meal (repeatedly) out of wonderful baguettes (like on Ponant) and a good cheese (if offered), nice cheese offerings can help me forget about other culinary failings that may happen on a cruise. I've only had one Ponant cruise, and don't know if other than on Commandant Charcot one can usually get good cheeses. 2. Did you use a pedometer, and if so, about how many miles did you walk per day, on average, with the itinerary you had (ups and downs). I'm trying to compare fitness levels and plan (or reduce) my itinerary accordingly. I have trouble going up hills (have to go slow, but can make it as long as I don't have to take near vertical high steps that would require very strong thigh and pelvic muscles), which is why I can't do Backroads anymore, and you mentioned you have trouble with Backroads now too. Would you say your fitness level is about at the Backroads low end exertional level 2 right now, or higher? 3. At the beginning you said that in hindsight, there may have been too much of a good thing, e.g., too many volcanic scenes, but your series of photos suggested they were all special in their own ways. Maybe you just did great editing, but I found your description of Azores even more titillating than I hoped! 🙂 4. I like having detailed narrative and pictures, as you provided, and I know *it is a lot of work*. One small suggestion: I (and perhaps other readers) might find it easier and even more enriching to have a little text, then a few pictures, then a little more text, then a few more related pictures, and so on, so one could follow along more easily as to what is where and when, rather than a lot of text, then a lot of pictures. I thought I was missing out on quite a bit by the time I got to the pictures in some of the sections. I managed (kept hopping up and down in the thread, which gave my internet some challenges), and still thoroughly enjoyed your report, please don't get me wrong. Maybe it's just a personal quirk of how I process and retain information and I'm out of line even suggesting this as an option. I also realize that since your DW did the writing, and you the photos, doing more alternation with smaller bites would likely have been even more work for you, and as it is, it looks like you spent many, many hours on this. 5. It was not encouraging to hear that you also had an 'Anglophone second class' problem, as my DH and I also did on our cruise (so we know it was not a one-off). When I book another Ponant cruise, I will not book unless it has a specific English subgroup (or maybe if it is Commandant Charcot) 5. Were you in a base cabin? Did you have any storage problems (or are your tiny wife's clothes so small they took near zero space :))? 6. It was good to hear that there was at least one classical music entertainer on board (even if she wasn't dynamic -- however, given she is Ukrainian, she may have had a few other things on her mind 😞 You have created a wonderful travel guide of Azores and your Ponant cruise, and I congratulate you. Thank you, thank you, and merci! May I ask when and where are your next cruises (Ponant or otherwise)? My DH and I would enjoy meeting you on board, if our paths ever cross.

I just spent the last 2.5 hours reviewing your blog and pictures, and that is just my first pass. I am sorry I somehow missed it in recent weeks, because I had been on our Ponant trip in Ireland, and was then on a Hapag Lloyd cruise, and in between were doctor appointments, home repairs, planning our next trip due to an upcoming deadline, etc.)A trip to the Azores has been on my list for quite some time now, so I am carefully filing the link for information to reference in the not too distant future. Thank you so much for including specifics about which local tour services and guides you used, and the pros and cons of the restaurants, and some of the hotels. You and your lovely, petite and fit DW seem to have been able to 'consume mass quantities' of food along the way without a concomitant expansion of your BMI, so I am envious. I doubt I would have had that kind of discipline or result. I am also pretty sure that even if I had taken hiking sticks (which I tend to do lately if the path is steep), I would not have had the courage to continue on that muddy hike uphill in the rain and fog where you had water running into your shoes from above. (cont'd)

Was he in there alone?

For strikingly interesting European towns, it may be worth booking a private land trip, and off season -- perhaps a week in LIsbon in late fall or winter. The crowds are gone, the wind is changing, and the imagery is striking.

Thank you for taking the time for your detailed and balanced post, which I find quite useful in my planning. It seems almost all cruise lines (we mix and match) are struggling with inability to deliver good customer service relating to flight arrangements (though of course some people are happy and/or lucky), so for now I am going to maintain control of our own flight arrangements, despite the higher risks and sometimes higher costs. We will also continue to have good travel insurance, to cover potential gaps and surprises (which are increasingly common when traveling). We also more than understand the additional struggles that health problems create when trying to follow the cheerful but generic Rick Steeves type advice to only travel with carry-ons (it just doesn't work for us and many others, with all the stuff we need to have, especially on longer trips). We can also relate to your justifiable annoyance with people who board excursion buses while ill, with or without "masks". I hope your next Viking cruise runs a bit more smoothly, and wish you well.

My husband always complies with the suggested rules of attire when we cruise, be it on SS or elsewhere, and looks terrific when he does. But I know he would prefer not to haul the black "cruise suit" he owns (that would leave more space for extra camera lenses and other tech toys he loves to bring on trips :). Dressing up makes that evening a special occasion, however, and we both enjoy the eye candy of looking at a room full of beautifully and/or creatively dressed up people in a tastefully decorated dining room or other venue. However, he easily gets hot and uncomfortable, especially when the venues are not cooled well enough in warmer climates, or high protein hot foods are served. Some people's metabolisms are simply different, i.e., some are more heat sensitive. So to avoid unaesthetically sweating up the place, he may then take his jacket off and put it on his chair. We think it is better to sit wearing a beautiful designer shirt and tie, cool and dry, rather than have beads of sweat pouring off his forehead. There are also no SS prohibitions on jacket-removal-when-seated so far and none of our dinner companions has been horrified (though we have not cruised with Mr. Luxury). That is a possible compromise for people who find a suit jacket uncomfortable (though if it's a formal night, the tie stays on). Frankly I doubt SS is headed for any kind of formal announcement about a change in dress code to be more like that on Regent, which we have also sailed (liked the dress code, but didn't like other things). The latest SS website photo I see when I log on, shows the photo below -- a clear implication that to fit in at SS, men should wear jackets (this might theoretically be people in a lounge on an "informal" night). Of course these are just models, but the photo suggests to customers that SS wants men to wear jackets.

Yes, there is a paywall, and for most guests here that is probably a blessing. But I saw the story elsewhere. There is an indigenous peoples tradition in that area of periodically killing these animals (they are "pilot whales", a form of dolphin), even though they no longer need to do so to eat and survive. The cruise guests just got accidentally caught up in viewing a reality different from what they are taught and understandably were horrified.

DH and I actually enjoyed Kaiseki, both for dinner and lunch, on the Moon, but it was months ago. We thought it was worth the upcharge then, but perhaps it has gone downhill. The steak was definitely a highlight at the time.

OVERVIEW: I have done multiple cruises with Hapag Lloyd's (HL) small luxury ships over the last eight years, the MS Europa (German is the on-board language) and the Europa 2 (German and English are on board languages). This Baltic cruise was 12 days, and featured the annual Ocean Sun classical music festival. Amazingly, even since Covid, unlike on some other "luxury' lines, food, service, ship condition, and overall organization have remained outstanding on the Europa, nearly flawless. They are not making "Blame Covid" excuses, as some luxury lines continue to do. Classical music offerings remain top tier, itineraries are interesting, and food/service are terrific. DEMOGRAPHICS, GERMAN: The ship has a capacity of about 400 guests, and was 85% full, overwhelmingly with older German, Austrian, and Swiss guests. The official on board language is only German (other than for emergency announcements and basics). But most frontline staff can speak and understand varying degrees of English (not just those higher up in the chain, but also the mostly Filipino cabin and restaurant crew and other staff who interact with pax). I am fine with a German language ship for various reasons (even though I am not German) but guest performers who do not speak German, as well as the handful of adventurous English-only guests on board, can be adequately accomodated for basics with some planning. There is no international hostess position anymore on the Europa. HL steers "international" non-German speaking audiences (what little there is of them) to the "international" sister ocean ship the Europa 2, and its international luxury expedition sister, the Inspiration, where on board languages for all functions are both German and English. Though you can get by for food, cabin and general service, unless you understand at least high school level German, however, you will miss out on understanding enrichment lectures, German-only comedy shows, non-emergency captain announcements, German-only excursions, and detailed colorful verbal musical and cruise director introductions. Certainly between English speaking waiters and an off-line translation app, and some planning, you can figure out what to eat, where, and when, you can go to the spa, the pool, the gym, and you could in most cases (depending on the port) organize independent shore excursions in English. The safety drill is, of course, offered in both German and English, as are no smoking warnings and emergencies. The doctor also speaks English. Quite a few (I won't say most) of the German passengers on the Europa understand and/or speak tourist English (or better), but they may be hesitant to tell you if they don't understand what you're saying in English, especially if you speak quickly and use slang. The older German pax way of interacting with strangers, even other Germans, (especially for those from certain parts of the country) is also a bit unfriendly (superficially polite, but generally stiff and not particularly outgoing, so don't count on making new BFF on this ship, you don't just go up to them and start trying to immediately get on a first name basis, as is often done on English luxury lines. For the handful of those on CC who are still interested despite the German barriers, read on. AMBIENCE: PEACEFUL is one word that sums up the experience. Sedate, reserved, conservative, calming, and quiet are other descriptors. There was only one young child on this Baltic cruise. This ship offers a perfect low pressure atmosphere for spending quiet time listening to the sea and mostly classical music, relaxing, eating, reading, drinking, and exercising (in the beautiful gym or on the deck walk loop), while touring scenic port locations, a place where you can just recharge in luxury. BEHAVIOR: Germans usually respect rules, and I appreciated that they were always on time (if not early) for everything, (especially concerts and excursions). They expect precision in information given to them by staff, (rather than wishy washy vagueness, which is what I often get from reception and other staff on other luxury ships). They mostly stick to the people they were traveling with, or have very limited attempts at interacting with others not in their group. This suits me just fine, as I do not cruise to find new BFF and dislike contrived small talk and artifice. Friendly Americans seeking to socialize with the Germans who speak some English might find the we-mind-our-own-business and reserved style unfriendly and lacking in curiosity. There were some organized attempts to get guests to socialize more with strangers, e.g., there was an invitation for solo passengers, an invitation for a doctor/dentist/veterinarian passenger get-together, an offer to join a "socialization" table for dinners (new) and even a block party (also new), like on English language luxury lines. Solos were not overtly discriminated against, which can sometimes occur on other lines (e.g., no one ever tried to steer me to the table near the crew work area, and if I came early enough, I was given the window or other desirable seat I wanted, rather than seeing it unofficially reserved for couples, regulars, or people who secretly tipped). DISABILITY accomodation: There were a few pax using canes, walkers and wheelchairs on this Baltic, port intensive voyage. The level of assistance they received from staff on board appeared to be comparable to other luxury lines (i.e., very little), but excursions level 2 effort or higher (on a scale of 1-5), will *not* allow significantly disabled pax to try and participate: cruise information specifically states that staff have the discretion to refuse to allow pax on an excursion who are clearly unfit to keep up with the group. Though I am no longer super fit and frisky, I appreciate not having the entire group signed up to do a "moderate" excursion over cobblestones and stairways slowed up by people with walkers who can barely move, as not uncommonly happens on non-German luxury lines. DRESS CODE was officially resort casual during the day, and this is what people stuck with. Evenings people typically voluntarily took it up a notch for the MDR (though resort casual was still appropriate). On the two formal nights for the captains' welcome and good-bye, people dressed up even more in varying ways, but no tie was required. I only saw a couple tuxes even on formal nights. No one wore T shirts with provocative message writing on them, much less backwards or team sports caps, and only a couple people wore jeans during the day (unfaded and without holes). Middle-aged and elderly ladies, mostly with coiffed white or silver-grey hair and manicured nails, dressed with muted elegance, and had the good sense to rarely wear unflattering shorts except at the pool (this was when weather was in the mid to high 70's). The boutiques sold name brand casual cruising outfits, Wempe jewelry, and varyingly priced purses (and some practical things behind the scenes, like batteries). I didn't experience a single bus ride where anyone was rowdy or facetiming without headphones. I never saw anyone visibly drunk. This not a party ship. I saw small groups quietly talking in bars (there is even a smoking lounge, called Havana), and a few people even sometimes laughed loudly, e.g., at the block party, at the "pool party" , at the Bavarian festival, and when free vodka was poured accompanied by a free portion of caviar ( usually alcohol has a charge). People had a good time without being boorish or inconsiderate. TEMPERATURE and physical comfort : The public areas run a bit warm for me (measured by me on my portable mini-thermometer, 73-75F, or more) by American standards. This is because many older Germans still worry greatly that they will get sick and die if AC is on strong (be it in a dining room or a bus). I brought my own little personal fans to help keep me cooler in venues, avoided sitting on the sunny side of dining rooms, and spent more time in my cabin with AC on max if a day was particularly hot. Most pax loved the sun, and many would sit for hours baking in it. I would sit in the dining rooms with short sleeves, fanning myself, still sweating a bit, while many pax would have on long sleeves, vests, and designer scarves, and still be comfortable. SUITE: I was in a basic very comfortable immaculate veranda suite which is very similar in size and style to the veranda suites on Seabourn, Regent, and Silversea, low 300's square feet. The bathroom had a tub and separate shower, one sink, a walk-in closet, a small TV (which had several German stations plus CNN international), a sofa, chair, and a mini-fridge (stocked with in-room complimentary sodas, juices and beer, customizable). There was plenty of overall storage space and drawers, even for two heavy packers. Beds, which are *very* comfortable (I did not need a topper to sleep like I do on Seabourn) can be set up as twin or as a German style double (hemisected into two separate matresses-- many Americans do not like that). The spacious veranda had one chaise lounge, two upright chairs, cushions, and a small table. This is an old ship, and though very well-maintained, there was only one 240 charging plug in my suite, at the desk. There were also a couple USB outlets. There was no self-laundry (other than a drying line over the tub) but laundry fees (though higher than last year) were still reasonable e.g., 1.50 Euro, for underwear, and laundry service is good (2 day official turnaround though you usually got things back the same day, with nothing lost, shrunk or shredded). The bathroom is well-stocked with pleasant smelling though not hypoallergenic Hapag Lloyd brand toiletries, which are replenished even without request, and even includes dental floss and refresher wipes. There was also a very welcome espresso machine. FOOD: There is a formal MDR (Europa) and a casual in/out Lido buffet (all open 3 meals a day every day) for dining with open seating, plus there are three specialty restaurants by limited reservation but no upcharge: Venezia (upscale Italian), open most lunches, and dinner; The Globe (an 8 course creative small courses meal by specialty chef Kevin Fehling; and Pearls, a caviar-oriented indoor/outdoor venue. I did not care for the fussy and Asian-oriented Globe or Pearls food menu, but the food in the MDR and the Lido by chef Tillman Fischer was generally very good, internationally oriented (i.e., not focussed on German cuisine though there was usually one special typical German dish each day), well-prepared, and well-presented, as it should be on a luxury ship. There were a few misses (e.g., the roast pig at the Bavarian festival was too dry, and some of the liver fegato in the Italian venue was a bit tough). I never had any food brought to me cold that was not supposed to be served cold, which was impressive. Desserts were ok but the weakest courses, with the special cream desserts and gelatos the best choices. Croissants, sweet rolls and afternoon teacakes were sadly mediocre (not enough butter, sugar or overall flavor ).Though the little rolls ( Broetchen) were still crisp and tasty, they only had them in the morning, and at lunch and dinner instead I saw mixed bread baskets with too many breads that had rubbery crusts, but also nice hearty country bread. But overall, food was excellent (especially given the competition) soups (cream or clear) were always hot and exceptionally flavorful, salads were crisp, misc. fish (some very fresh and never frozen , e.g., even purchased during the cruise at local fish markets) were very flavorful and well-prepared. Consistency of proper food preparation and service was/is better on HL than I have ever seen on any luxury cruise line, even before Covid. The lunch meats offered at the breakfast buffet, with the exception of prosciuto equivalents, were unfortunately a lot leaner than on my pre-Covid sailings, (which is the trend everywhere), so I missed the older style. Fruit, cereals, cheeses, yoghurts, and a variety of bread options, plus a "healthy choice" special plus made to order hot eggs and bacon, eggs benedict, and pancakes were also options. There was a special Bavarian lunch festival offering (once per cruise on a sea day) which was quite popular, with southern German traditional fare and free-flowing beer and spirits. Very little of the food offerings on other days were what you'd call "German food", though if you tire of the fancy food, you can still get an excellent fluffy Wienerschnitzel with cranberrry or Frankfurter sausages with potato salad, either in the MDR or as part of efficient 24 hour room service. Drinks outside the suite (and alcohol anywhere other than beer in the suite) are not included in the base fare, and only beer is free alcohol in the suite. There are no come-on packages either. However, the mark-up is reasonable (e.g., most single shot cocktails were about 8 euros). For the food and beverage gourmet or zealot, there are hundreds of excellent wine and spirits offerings, both medium and high end, and you do not have to pull out the suite card to get served, you just verbally state your suite number. At the end of the meal you are presented with a bill for the extra cost beverages, which you sign for (at lunch and dinner), with a line for an optional but not expected TIP (my understanding is that most people ignore it because tips are included in the base fare and are neither required nor expected -- HL pays their staff well). Several dozen good wines (many of them German) were offered by the glass (0.1 liter or 0.25 liter), for easy sampling and pairing. There was no "free" caviar other than as part of the two formal special meals, but you could buy several different brands at a reasonable price. I enjoyed their base offering, Prunier, 30 gram portion was 39 Euros, with all the usual sides, but other varieties were available. In the base suite, I did not have a butler to cater to my whims like I did on Silversea, e.g., there is no server running back and forth with afternoon cocktails and canapes. But the front desk (which picks up almost immediately) was quickly responsive to requests I had. Penthouse suites, however, have butlers. Ice and fruit can be regularly supplied by the stewardesses on request, or you can go pick fruit of your choice up at poolside. The Europa has several dozen fine cheeses on board (including some of my soft favorites). A sampling of one night's cheese board offer included "L'Ami du Chambertin, Bleu des Basques, Brie, Geramont, Gorgonzola, Morbier, Munster, Pont-l'Eveque, Reblochon, Scamorza, Stilton". Another night offered Camembert, Comte, Epoisses, Geramont, Langres, Picandou, Scamorza. I frequently chose cheeses for dessert with specially paired wines. SERVICE: The suite was well-maintained by generally well-trained and competent international staff (Ukrainian and Filipina in my case, both of whom spoke both traveler German and traveler English -- the Filipina better than the Ukrainian.) The diverse dining rooms' international staff workers (German, Filipino, Tunisian, and misc. east European) generally tried to be helpful and responsive and were usually successful. There were no comical order errors or missed deliveries. There was a real sommelier on board, (guests are given information about key staff on their TVs when they board, and there is also a formal introduction), but I usually did not see him around (I think he was mostly in the Globe supervising pairings). I mostly just made my own wine selections from the long wine list (I had pre-copied it to my iphone so I could study it in peace in my suite and while looking at the menus in advance, available on my ipad and TV) . My one dining service criticism was that there was sometimes a disconnect between the food server and the wine server (each had separate assignments), aggravated by some understaffing at busier meals. For example, getting my special champage served close to the same time as my special order caviar could be a challenge (I did not want to drink my extra charge champage that had gone flat due to standing around too long waiting for the caviar to come). And when I ordered a special wine, selected for appropriate pairing, it not uncommonly took longer to bring than was optimal, especially when the food courses were already coming. I managed to only partially train my busy servers to bring my wine in time so it would be there when the food came. In hindsight, I should have spoken to the dining room manager about the issue earlier in the cruise. Many of the wait staff I saw were new since Covid, some new even since 2022 when I was last on board, and were not native German (much less English) speakers. But all were still better trained and skilled in luxury service than the average waiter on Seabourn and Silversea I have encountered since Covid. They were also not intrusive, e.g., I witnessed NO plate-snatching, no asking questions right when I had put food in your mouth, and no awkward interruptions of pax conversations. In contrast, the higher level positions and bridge officers were staffed by Germans (and a couple Austrians, plus one American "entertainment manager" , though he did not introduce the music groups, the German cruise director did that). The crew manner was almost always friendly and polite without being overly chummy. ENRICHMENT There was a charming Austrian music expert on this classical music festival, and a less than charming "culture" historian on board who gave a couple lectures (in German, as previously noted ), and also led a couple excursions. The talks and accompanying slides were available on suite TVs. As noted earlier, non-German understanders would totally miss out on the lectures. ENTERTAINMENT AND ACTIVITIES The classical music offerings from the intense Ocean Sun Festival (on ship and on land) were of course the main point of this classical music festival cruise, and as noted above, were beautiful and usually well-organized. No other cruise line has such a classical music lineup (though Ponant can come close on selected cruises). Artists this year included Jan Lisiecki (pianist); Chaarts (string group); Shira Patchornik (soprano); Niklas Liepe (violinist) with the Muenchner Rundfunkorchester and Nils Liepe (cembalo for the main on-land performance, directed by young Patrick Hahn; Duo Aliada (unique accordeon and sax); and Duo Circiu-Gologan (four-hand piano). . Other than classical music, for entertainment there was one pool party, a bar where a band played popular tunes and people could dance, two performances by talented dancers/acrobats, and two caberet shows (of course in German). There is also a good-sized mostly empty well-stocked gym with a nice ocean view, a large popular lap pool with a jacuzzi next to it (that unfortunately is barely warmer than the pool water), and a 180 meter loop outdoor walking track, and an upper deck sun deck. There was a young man offering various free fitness classes which I did not go to, and a spa and beauty shop with assorted offerings I also did not go to. Passenger space (close to the highest in the cruise industry on HL, even when full) was abundant everywhere, so there were no chair hog issues on a full ship, but certainly on a sunny day, one should plan ahead. I liked the many chairs which faced out to sea. In-room TV offered a handful of airline quality non-controversial German language movies, and only a few in English (so BYO movies). There is a library, which was physically pretty but too hot for me to sit in. The high deck forward view lounge called Belvedere was underutilized, e.g., it hosted a couple of the concerts, but during the day its space stood empty and was mostly wasted other than when artists rehearesed. The only bar area during the day other than at the pool was in the main reception area, not very cozy, or the smoking lounge. Internet was slow but generally ok (pax got one free hour per day and an option to buy more data). I would not want to be on this ship if I absolutely needed good internet to get major work or conference calls done, and sadly this is true for most small luxury ships I have been on lately. There was an organized gin tasting and a high end champagne tasting offered, for fees. An "open bridge" morning was also offered. The last night of the cruise, there was a crew singing show, and a lottery benefitting the crew. PORTS Ports visited (mostly new to me) included Gdansk, Visby, Riga, Tallinn, Helsinki (overnight), Turku, and Stockholm (overnight). None of these ports had what I would call striking scenery, but they were rich in history and ambience and are worth visiting (we had warm weather and no rain, but there are plenty of museums and indoor restaurants if it rains). Private English guides were available online (with planning) everywhere except Visby and Turku, but the populace in those ports also mostly understands English and is friendly. The ship provided excellent port maps, as well as specific DIY and dining suggestions (Seabourn and Ponant should take some lessons), and a concierge service was available for individualized planning (for a fee). Most German language port excursions I went on were well-organized (sadly, other than those led by the brusk "culture" expert). Walking groups typically had 15-25 polite people who also valued being on time. Buses were comfortable and not packed like they typically are on SB. Just as on most other luxury line excursions, there never seemed to be enough time for having a relaxing local lunch after walking around a lot on a hot day. All of these ports can be visited independently, in most cases by walking, some (like Gdansk) with a shuttle. IN SUM: The MS Europa is a quiet small luxury ship which is very well-run, a real class act. It provides overall excellent food and service. Nothing was broken and everything flowed smoothly. Negatives are off course that the on-board language is German, even though uninhibited English speakers can get by (especially with good planning). The AC was often too weak for me (both on the ship and on the excursion buses chosen), and I wish they would get a better pastry chef and figure out a better way to time and coordinate special wine orders with foods. I think the Europa is ideal for couples who want to spend quiet time with each other in relative luxury, and solos who want to be left alone while going somewhere interesting or beautiful, (and on this cruise , listening to classical music in a small, comfortable venue). If the space, food, and good service of the Europa appeals to you, but the lone German language does not, Hapag Lloyd's Europe 2 ( which is bilingual German and English) may be a good choice as long as you don't expect to meet many English speaking new friends to have a good time (because even there, most pax are German).

I just picked up on your thread (was busy on Hapag Lloyd's MS Europa Ocean Sun classical music fest). Thank you so much for sharing and posting. It sounds like you are having an extraordinary and positive experience on Ponant's star ship. I will keep following. Enjoy the remainder of your cruise!