En Route with Hank in Japan and the Westerdam

[Hlitner]

Greetings,

This is the first time I have ever tried to blog a trip/cruise in real time.  But we know there is an interest in Asia/Japan and its recent reopening to tourists and crusie ships.  So we start now.  Kathy and I flew (Business Class) from Washington Dulles to Heathrow and changed to a JAL flight to Tokyo (Haneda).  We booked that strange route because HAL had a terrific Business Class deal at the time we booked.  It turned out to be a bargain because of recent air fare increases.  Our flights turned into a stressful adventure because of a 1:45 delay on our flight to Heathrow which left us with about 1:20 to change from Terminal 5 to Terminal 3 for the JAL flight.  Suffice it to say that we topped the old OJ Simpson commercial of him running through an airport.  But all ended well when we landed at Haneda this morning (on time).  Immigration/Passport Control was quite easy since we had properly completed (before the trip) the Welcome Japan web site requirements.  Not having that done (in advance) would have created some delays.  Once we had our luggage we walked over the JR East ticket office to pick-up our previously purchased (online) JR Rail Pass (which we are using to ge to Kyoto and later back to Yokohama to join the Westy.  The queue at the JR office (in Haneda) meant we spent about 45 min picking up our rail pass.  But we thought this made more sense than later dealing with even longer queues at the Shinjuku Station (not far from our hotel).  I should mention that I spotted a back ATM ,in the Haneda luggage pick-up area, that accepted foreign ATM cards and limited withdrawals to 50,000 Yen.. We has also planned on buying two SUICA cards (pre paid cards good on most transportation systems) but the SUICA terminals at Haneda where all out of order.

 

To get to our hotel we opted to use a taxi, because we had two large suitcases and two heavy carry-ons.  The taxi cost about $75 and Japanese taxis do take credit cards.  Once at the hotel (by 11:15am) we dropped our luggage and went out to explore a nearby park/gardens and find a place for lunch (we decided to enjoy various Yakitori at a decent looking restaurant.    So now, DW and I settle down to 4 days in Tokyo before heading to Kyoto for 6 days.  

 

I will add some additional comments about business class.  Yes, it is a financial splurge.  But we were on that British Air A380 for about 7 hours and than quickly transferred to the JAL B787 for a flight that lasted just over 13 hours.  Folks, that is just over 20 hours sitting on aircraft and doing it in Economy would be akin to mild torture.  In Biz Class, we took advantage of the comfy lay flat seats to get a few hours' sleep on the flight to London and over 5 hours sleep on the long flight to Tokyo.  The result was that we have been out and about this first day without being exhausted.   Another nice surprise was that passengers were not wearing masks on the JAL flight, and even the flight attendants were maskless during the first part of the flight.  Apparently, JAL dropped their mandatory mask rule this past Monday (the Japanese government has also dropped nearly all of its masking rules).   While masking is still the norm, here in Tokyo, you do see plenty of unmasked folks on the streets and even in some indoor venues.  A desk clerk in our hotel told me that it will take some time for the Japanese to get over their masking habit but from what we saw today, there is nothing loke a gorgeous spring day to get folks to unmask and breath-in all that wonderful 

 

Yes, we do understand that CC is about cruising, and we are on our way to join the Westerdam on March 27 (for 42 days).

 

Hank

[daisybertie]

Looking forward to your reports. This is the trip we really want to do. Maybe next year. Enjoy your cruise.

[Mtn2Sea]

Thanks for taking the time to report on your trip.  Hope your cruise is amazing!

[Aitchgeye]

Thanks Hank for your post.

 

We will are planning to cruise on  the Westie later this year and would be interested on your insights on the cruise and shore excursions.  Great to read the details, like the cost of taxis etc.

 

Helen 

[roberts2005]

Looking forward to your posts.  Especially your time in Tokyo.  We board the Quest next month.   Really interested in your time in Tokyo . Everything to meals to day trips.   We have 6 nights there, pre-cruise.

[cruisemom42]

Good to hear you're on the ground in Tokyo. Last time I was in Japan (independent land trip with DS), we stayed in Shinjuku and found it very handy for getting around Tokyo.

 

Thanks for your report. I have plans to pick up a Suica card at Haneda also -- did it seem like the terminals were just temporarily down?  I think there is also a desk where one can get a card with a pre-set amount. I'll have to go back and look at the details on that....

 

See you onboard Westie!

[Sir PMP]

Good start.

[geer55]

Thnx for taking the time to write the blog. As we are interested in taking this cruise we look forward to your experience and tips.

[ncgolferette]

I will really enjoy reading and looking forward to your reports.  I leave June 15 to board the Insignia in Tokyo for the ships last leg of its world voyage. Like you I will spend 4 nights in Tokyo before boarding the ship. At the present time I have my air booked with Delta for premium select and am deliberating as to whether I should upgrade to business - additional $3900 for the 14 hour flight from Atlanta to HND and not counting the flying time to get to Atlanta and the five hour layover.  

[Bostonjetset]

8 hours ago, Hlitner said:

Greetings,

This is the first time I have ever tried to blog a trip/cruise in real time.  But we know there is an interest in Asia/Japan and its recent reopening to tourists and crusie ships.  So we start now.  Kathy and I flew (Business Class) from Washington Dulles to Heathrow and changed to a JAL flight to Tokyo (Haneda).  We booked that strange route because HAL had a terrific Business Class deal at the time we booked.  It turned out to be a bargain because of recent air fare increases.  Our flights turned into a stressful adventure because of a 1:45 delay on our flight to Heathrow which left us with about 1:20 to change from Terminal 5 to Terminal 3 for the JAL flight.  Suffice it to say that we topped the old OJ Simpson commercial of him running through an airport.  But all ended well when we landed at Haneda this morning (on time).  Immigration/Passport Control was quite easy since we had properly completed (before the trip) the Welcome Japan web site requirements.  Not having that done (in advance) would have created some delays.  Once we had our luggage we walked over the JR East ticket office to pick-up our previously purchased (online) JR Rail Pass (which we are using to ge to Kyoto and later back to Yokohama to join the Westy.  The queue at the JR office (in Haneda) meant we spent about 45 min picking up our rail pass.  But we thought this made more sense than later dealing with even longer queues at the Shinjuku Station (not far from our hotel).  I should mention that I spotted a back ATM ,in the Haneda luggage pick-up area, that accepted foreign ATM cards and limited withdrawals to 50,000 Yen.. We has also planned on buying two SUICA cards (pre paid cards good on most transportation systems) but the SUICA terminals at Haneda where all out of order.

 

To get to our hotel we opted to use a taxi, because we had two large suitcases and two heavy carry-ons.  The taxi cost about $75 and Japanese taxis do take credit cards.  Once at the hotel (by 11:15am) we dropped our luggage and went out to explore a nearby park/gardens and find a place for lunch (we decided to enjoy various Yakitori at a decent looking restaurant.    So now, DW and I settle down to 4 days in Tokyo before heading to Kyoto for 6 days.  

 

I will add some additional comments about business class.  Yes, it is a financial splurge.  But we were on that British Air A380 for about 7 hours and than quickly transferred to the JAL B787 for a flight that lasted just over 13 hours.  Folks, that is just over 20 hours sitting on aircraft and doing it in Economy would be akin to mild torture.  In Biz Class, we took advantage of the comfy lay flat seats to get a few hours' sleep on the flight to London and over 5 hours sleep on the long flight to Tokyo.  The result was that we have been out and about this first day without being exhausted.   Another nice surprise was that passengers were not wearing masks on the JAL flight, and even the flight attendants were maskless during the first part of the flight.  Apparently, JAL dropped their mandatory mask rule this past Monday (the Japanese government has also dropped nearly all of its masking rules).   While masking is still the norm, here in Tokyo, you do see plenty of unmasked folks on the streets and even in some indoor venues.  A desk clerk in our hotel told me that it will take some time for the Japanese to get over their masking habit but from what we saw today, there is nothing loke a gorgeous spring day to get folks to unmask and breath-in all that wonderful 

 

Yes, we do understand that CC is about cruising, and we are on our way to join the Westerdam on March 27 (for 42 days).

 

Hank

Following along. We honeymooned in Japan (land trip) and I love reading about other peoples’ adventures in this amazing country. Thanks for posting. 

[bennybear]

Will happily follow along,  we loved our trip to Japan and our circumnavigation before the pandemic.    Don’t envy you those flights, we flew Business class from Vancouver and it was about 11 hours, which was a very pleasant flight.  Make sure to enjoy the lounge on return,  ANA had a sushi chef and a ramen bar.  I’m sure JAL will be comparable. 
 

We too stayed in Shinjuku area, where our hotel had an amazing top floor view of Fuji San.  So keep your eyes open.  
 

Enjoy! 

Edited March 16, 2023 by bennybear

[Ichiban Nekko]

@Hlitner Hank - Looking so forward to following this. Japan is such an interesting place and Tokyo is an amazing city. What a great time of year to visit. Thanks so much for taking the time to include of all us tagging along.

[floridatravelersforlife]

Hank please keep at it.  The more detail the better.  We are cruising Japan in October and you are our forward point man.  A couple questions: What time did you arrive at Haneda? Was customs crowded?  What cell phone option did you choose for Japan?  Are you ?using or planning to use mobile based  apps such as Google maps.  Are most citizens on the street waring masks?

 

Thanks in advance

 

   

[red4lisa]

Looking forward to hearing all about your trip. I will be on Westerdam for the first time this summer. Can't wait to hear about the ship too.

[ncgolferette]

Thanks to Hank I went ahead and completed the Welcome to Japan website requirements.  I received QR codes for customs/immigration.  I would not have known about this if Hank hadn’t mentioned it.  Thanks. 

[GlennG]

Hank,

While I'm not a big participant in the day-to-day commentary in Cruise Critic, I'm an individual who has developed a respect for your observations and experiences with the travel industry.  I particularly value your opinions and reviews of Holland America Line.  Like many people, I've become a little skeptical and disappointed with cruising, particularly  after the dark days of Covid.  I'm hoping that you will find time, in your busy schedule, to comment, specifically on HAL's Westerdam ship.  For me, it would be nice if you good share both the "good and the bad" of your upcoming vacation.

[REOVA]

Sounds like a good start (could've been worse). We always fly business if single flight time is over 6 hours. Much easier on the body (and mind). We are booking the "legendary voyage" R/T from Seattle and looking forward to your insights on the Westy and Japan after covid. 

[LAFFNVEGAS]

@Hlitner Hank I am definitely looking forward to your review, Sounds like you have a great start. Brings me back to when we cruised Diamond Princess in both 2017 and 2019. I agree that Business Class is truly the only way to fly to Japan. I look forward to hear about some of the changes in cruising, I already learned something new from you about the registering on line inadvance. That is new since 2019. We will be doin the Noordam in March 2025 so very much interested in everything you have to say.  Thanks so very much for bringing us along!!

[alanstarr]

10 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

I have plans to pick up a Suica card at Haneda also -- did it seem like the terminals were just temporarily down? 

 

I think it was just temporary. I flew in on March 6th and bought a SUICA card at a machine in Haneda. And I used a US credit card, didn't have to be cash. 

Edited March 16, 2023 by alanstarr

[avalon1025]

Looking forward to your reports, joining Westerdam on April 24th

[Hlitner]

19 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

Good to hear you're on the ground in Tokyo. Last time I was in Japan (independent land trip with DS), we stayed in Shinjuku and found it very handy for getting around Tokyo.

 

Thanks for your report. I have plans to pick up a Suica card at Haneda also -- did it seem like the terminals were just temporarily down?  I think there is also a desk where one can get a card with a pre-set amount. I'll have to go back and look at the details on that....

 

See you onboard Westie!

Thanks for the encouragement to continue the saga.  We had not planned on gourmet meals in Tokyo, and dinner last night was at a nearby Udon restaurant.  Many restaurants in Tokyo have eliminated waiters.  Once seated, you scan a QR code (at your table) which gives you an ordering menu from which you make your selections.  After a period of time the food/drink is brought to your table.  Efficient but somewhat impersonal with no waiter to answer questions.  Dinner was simple Udon fare, which is similar to ramen with thicker noodles and various extras (I had tempura items).   DW and I went to sleep by 11 and had a terrific night's sleep (no jetlag issues).  

 

Today, it was cloudy and cool.  We walked to the huge Shinjuku Train Station where I bought us two SUICA cards (a true God send for tourists ).  These cards are loaded with money (at machines in the train stations) and can be used for most transportation.  We took the Yamanote Line over to Ueno where we changed to the Ginza Line (subway) to Asaksua.  Despite having been to Tokyo a few times this was my first visit to the Asakusa area where you might get lucky and see a real Geisha walking in the street (we did not see any).  We walked over to Sensoji Temple and its surrounding area.  This is one of the top tourist destinations in Tokyo and it was an enjoyable morning.  I imagine going there on a busy day would be crazy.  The cherry blossoms are just beginning to bloom and I imagine it will be about 2 weeks until they are at their prime.

 

Later we hopped back on the Ginza Line for the short ride back to Ueno where we stopped for lunch in a decent Chinese restaurant for lunch.  We than walked over to Ueno Park (an old favorite of mine) where we visited a couple of museums.  All around a good day.

 

So, let's talk about masking.  On public transportation, although it is no longer mandated, everyone (99%) do wear masks.  I have always loved Japanese public transit since folks are quiet, respectful, no blasting music, nobody talking on their phones (it is frowned upon).  The cars are clean, stations clean, no graffiti, etc.  This is a country where folks should not hesitate to ask for help.  We got lost in Shinjuku Station (it is the busiest train station on earth) and walked over to a few police to ask for the best way to get to Asakusa.  Several of them looked at a nearby map, talked among themselves, and then gave us their suggestions.  This is the Japan I loved 54 years ago (when I lived here) and that part has not changed.  

 

Hank

P.S.  For Cruisemom....I do suspect that the SUICA machine outage at Haneda was temporary.  The only thing you can buy at the ticket office is the Welcome SUICA which is slightly different than the regular SUICA.  The 28 day limit on the Welcome SUICA does not fit our plans.

[Beejay4016]

We are doing the 14 night crossing from Yokohama to Seattle, with a few days in Yokohama pre-cruise, so I am loving your reports and look forward to the next ones. Enjoy your time there.

[Aitchgeye]

In 2018, we spent a few days in Tokyo, also staying near the Shinjuku station.  We purchased a data only sim, which was very handy as we used our phone apps to guide us, and translate.

 

If you  feel inclined,  see if you can book a walking evening tour of  the Golden Gai.  This neighbourhood in Shinjuku is filled with closet-sized bars where each bar has a theme with interesting bar tenders and drinks.  

 

Also visit a Japanese supermarket.  You will be surprised how it differs to your own.  We tried to locate bread and butter which we eventually found.

 

I agree that ordering in a regular neighbourhood restaurant is an experience,  No no need to worry about gratuities 😉 . We found the staff gracious, and accommodating.

 

Just my thoughts. 
 

Helen
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Cruising Is Bliss]

Really looking forward to whatever you want to share, thank you for taking us along!

[Alphen]

Very interested to follow your cruise, we opted out this years Japan adventure and cancelled our long planned stay on Westerdam, but still on our list, so following your report, thanks in advance and have a great cruise!