Live from Silver Origin in the Galapagos July 6th to 13th (with pre and post-voyage adventures in the Amazon and Andes)

[RyanJCanada]

On 7/4/2024 at 1:27 AM, drron29 said:

I guess the bird flu might have caused some problems the same as Antarctica. I am currently in Sapporo Japan and visited their Botanical Gardens today. They had a sign saying bird flu has been confirmed as the cause of death of many of their crows.

So far, so good - it looks like we've lucked out with being largely past bird flu in Galapagos, and having arrived after the switch from El Nino to La Nina.

[RyanJCanada]

On 7/7/2024 at 5:33 PM, Jim_Iain said:

Wanted to thank you for your well written and photo documentary.    I just discovered it today and have been engrossed for the past hour and still only beginning page 2.  All I can say is your kids are the luckiest kids in the world.    What an adventure and you haven't even begun the Galapagos portion of your adventure.   I'm an Orphan... please adopt me... LOL

You're very welcome! Glad you're enjoying it. Sad to say that we're not currently taking any new applications for the position of child as the world seems designed for a family of four, but we'll be referring our children to your post should any of them wish to resign from our parentage... I think they know how good they have it, but I also expect they'll have occasional doubts once the teenage years arrive.

[RyanJCanada]

On 7/7/2024 at 8:17 PM, Host Jazzbeau said:

Government regulation:  Meat coming into Galapagos must be par-cooked.  Even if they served it to you cold, it would still be medium.

 

On 7/7/2024 at 7:22 PM, alithecat said:

Thanks from me too. I am enjoying reading about your adventures. We were on the Silver Galapagos in 2017, before the Origin, and enjoyed the trip. The wildlife was amazing and very unique. In case you don't know this, all food must be sourced from Ecuador or Galapagos. I believe that the beef is frozen. It is recommended that you stick to fish and seafood, which is wonderful, and forget the steaks.

Thank you, @jazzbeau and @alithecat - that makes complete sense, and is probably one of those details that we should have know before we arrived.

 

We've been keen on the Ecuadorian beef since our time in Quito but I agree that this is a good time to switch to seafood. We did so earlier today (after reading your comments) and are glad we've done so.

 

We keep trying to convince our daughter to do the same, but I pity anyone who tries to get between her and a tenderloin.

[Host Jazzbeau]

8 minutes ago, RyanJCanada said:

I pity anyone who tries to get between her and a tenderloin.

It may be a loin, but it isn't tender...

[RyanJCanada]

20 minutes ago, Host Jazzbeau said:

It may be a loin, but it isn't tender...

I’ll take “Rejected Silversea marketing phrases” for $500, Alex…

[lincslady]

You have got your children at that magic age when they are interested in everything, and will remember what they have seen and done, but before the bored, parents are a pain, years of teenage.  Although some teenagers remain fairly civilised, girls growing up a lot sooner than boys, I noted from my own twins.

Fascinating posts, thank you.

[highplanesdrifters]

7 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

I’ll take “Rejected Silversea marketing phrases” for $500, Alex…

 

It's a Daily Double!  😃

[Ciaranaman]

Just discovered your "live" and wow, oh wow, oh wow!  Thank you for taking us along on your family's journey.  I can't wait to read/see more!

~Bernadette

[RyanJCanada]

11 hours ago, lincslady said:

You have got your children at that magic age when they are interested in everything, and will remember what they have seen and done, but before the bored, parents are a pain, years of teenage.  Although some teenagers remain fairly civilised, girls growing up a lot sooner than boys, I noted from my own twins.

Fascinating posts, thank you.

That's our thoughts exactly... get this in while we can, and before the kids have to deal with the demands of high school. We've got two more big trips planned over the next couple of years, and then we'll have to scale back for a while.

[RyanJCanada]

19 minutes ago, Ciaranaman said:

Just discovered your "live" and wow, oh wow, oh wow!  Thank you for taking us along on your family's journey.  I can't wait to read/see more!

~Bernadette

Thanks for joining us, Bernadette! Glad you're enjoying the trip report, and please let me know if you have any questions the Origin or the Galapagos cruise.

[CardowMD]

I like others, just discovered your “live” review! I was going to go to bed about 2 hours ago, but like a good book, couldn’t put down my iPad! This is an amazing journey for your family, and your kids are very fortunate to have these opportunities to see the “other side” of the world that most will never experience.

 

Plan to hit the sack so I can get up at 530 tomorrow morning😊look forward to the next chapter.

[RyanJCanada]

Day 12

 

I have a confession to make – despite my best efforts, I’m only managing to capture perhaps 10% of what’s happening during this cruise through the Galapagos. There’s simply too much – too many animals, too much natural beauty, too many facts and insights from the expedition staff. I feel like a monkey making scribbles during a quantum physics lesson.

 

Even so, I think it’s still worth doing. So I’m going to keep on keeping on. But please bear this in mind – you are only seeing the very tip of the iceberg of what these islands represent.

 

Anyway – we had a late start today, and we managed to sleep in until 6:30 am.

Off to the Restaurant, where we had another delicious breakfast that included both the buffet and made-to-order eggs. I’ve shown the eggs before, so here’s more of the buffet:

Then off to the Zodiac which would take us to North Seymour island, where we hope to spot some blue footed boobies.

 

And we were in luck:

What’s more, we managed to spot some marine iguanas:

And land iguanas:

Land iguanas are not native to North Seymour, but were introduced to the island by US military personnel for no particular reason around the time of the Second World War. Fortunately, this population acted as a reserve for the species after they went extinct on the island of Baltra, following the arrival of cats to the island. The species was also re-introduced to the island of Santiago, where they were extinct until 2019.

 

We also saw frigate birds engaging in their mating ritual:

And – of course – the ever-present sea lions:

Back to the ship for a quick change so that we could go deep sea snorkelling.

 

The video I took would firmly break the Origin’s internet, but I will upload it once we get home.

 

In the mean time, here’s a teaser:

The dive was really well-organized – we took a five minute Zodiac ride around the coast, got our masks and fins on, and then jumped over the edge into the cool water. Our guide led the way, and we stuck together using the buddy system. The Zodiac followed along and picked up divers whenever they decided they no longer wanted to continue.

 

It lasted about 30 – 45 minutes, which was plenty of time. It’s tempting to be disappointed that we missed the octopus, but overall we’re thrilled with all the marine life we saw in our first deep-sea outing.

 

Back to the Origin to get out of our wetsuits and shower, and then head off for a delicious lunch.

I started with the snapper ceviche:

Followed by the giant Ecuadorian prawns with truffled mac-and-cheese:

While my daughter had the penne cacio e pepe pasta:

As well as red velvet cake and white chocolate Ecuadorian mousse:

Then off to visit the future cruise manager – they do it a bit differently here, so it was simply a matter of purchasing a blank booking for $100 per passenger. This would then allow us to get a 10% discount off a cruise when returned home – anytime within the next month.

 

And what if we decide not to carry on with our booking? The full deposit would then be refunded. It’s a simple but effective system given the limited staffing on the Origin.

The other upside is that it left me enough time to go and have a nap.

 

But not for too long, because we had reached Sullivan Bay, on the island of Santiago.

 

There were two excursions available this afternoon – one was a Challenging hike along the lava fields, while the second was an optional and very brief lava field visit followed by some snorkelling and beach time.

 

We opted for the lava field trip:

This eruption took place in 1897, so it’s still very new. And yet life is still finding a foothold in this hostile terrain:

It happens slowly at first. Earthquakes break up the crust of the lava flow:

Birds drop seeds, which find thin purchase on the rocky terrain – but enough to start making headway.

 

Contrast this to a nearby area, which has a head start of perhaps several thousand years:

As the terrain has softened, life has a greater opportunity to establish itself:

Though there was little in the way of animals – and the sun bore down on us as we walked the hot lava fields – this offered a fascinating look at how a volcano can grow new land, and how that land can become inhabited by a wide range of life.

Also, as a small bit of trivia – this area is near Pinnacle rock, which was one of the filming sites for the film Master and Commander:

The terrain was harsh, but striking:

We also ran into a few cruisers that had been on our past cruises in Greenland and the British Isles – they had been part of the ‘pole to pole’ group. It was great having the chance to catch up, and compare notes on past and future travels.

 

Back to the Origin, where we asked our butler to kindly bring up two bowls of ice cream for two very hot and tired kids. It arrived in under 5 minutes.

 

There were also some delicious appetizers:

We then had a bit of time to relax before heading to the Explorer’s Lounge for the evening lecture on how the ocean currents affect the Galapagos. I was surprised to learn that there are both regular warm and cold currents that have brought different wildlife to Galapagos.

 

The penguins, for instance, were brought in from the Humbolt current from Antarctica.

Each current lasts for roughly six months before switching. El Nino causes an extended warm water period, while La Nina created a cool water period. Few parts of the world are as affected by these changes as Galapagos.

 

It was then time for the activity brief – we’ll be heading to Fernandina early tomorrow, where there will be a Zodiac cruise on offer, followed by deep water snorkeling where we might be so lucky as to see turtles or even Galapagos penguins.

 

But also – kayaking. Would I be able to participate as a lowly singleton? I suppose there was only one way to find out.

 

Tempted as I was to dash to the back of the room to sign up, there was still the rest of the briefing to listen to – in the afternoon, we would be headed to Punta Moreno, on the island of Isabella. This would be a good opportunity to see marine iguanas, and our last opportunity to see the Galapagos penguin.

 

The briefing wrapped, and I dashed to the back of the room to sign up for kayaking. The kayaking guide was swamped, but he was willing to entertain the notion of taking out a lone boater. He asked me to give him a few minutes, which I gladly did – as he was then promptly swamped by many other potential candidates.

 

We then went off to dinner at the Restaurant:

Shortly after sitting down, I went back to Base Camp to check on the status of my kayaking application, and... success! I will be going kayaking tomorrow, regardless of whether they are able to matchmake me with another singleton.

 

Back to the Restaurant, where I started with the Mosaico de Salmon Crudo:

Delicious. Like a series of mini sushi rolls.

 

Followed by the paiche, which we’d already enjoyed while in the Amazon:

So good that we’d already taken a few bites by the time we remembered to take the photo.

 

For dessert, the chocolate mousse:

And a wee dram of Diplomatico rum:

I think they took me literally when I asked for a glass of rum

 

And then once more time to head out to our verandah with a bottle of wine to watch the world float by:

Edited July 10 by RyanJCanada

[RyanJCanada]

Tomorrow’s Chronicle:

 

 

[Port Power]

I didn’t think I would want to go the distance and pay the premium for a visit to the Galapagos.  However, I have been follow your current trip as well as reading @twangster’s trip report from September 2023.  A good comparison between a family’s experience and a solo photographer’s experience that combines to relate such a good experience.  
 

I cannot reconcile having to wear a wetsuit when snorkelling at that latitude, so will look at my future booking when slightly warmer.  Love that ship!  Meanwhile I’m heading back to the zoo to spend the day with Perth’s Galapagos tortoises!

[Ciaranaman]

21 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

Thanks for joining us, Bernadette! Glad you're enjoying the trip report, and please let me know if you have any questions the Origin or the Galapagos cruise.

We are booked on the Flora for April 2026 so I am soaking up all your pics and notes.  You mentioned that your report is only the tip of the iceberg but I'm finding it so thorough that I have no questions!  Just enjoying everything about it!

~Bernadette

[Host Jazzbeau]

4 hours ago, Port Power said:

I cannot reconcile having to wear a wetsuit when snorkeling at that latitude, so will look at my future booking when slightly warmer.  Love that ship!  Meanwhile I’m heading back to the zoo to spend the day with Perth’s Galapagos tortoises!

Weather conditions in Galapagos vary quite a bit from month to month.  We were dead-set on seeing certain animals do certain things [blue-footed booby mating dance], so we had to take the weather that goes with that period.  But if snorkeling without a wetsuit is important, you can choose your month based on that and take whatever the animals are up to.

[RachelG]

Just catching and loving your reports.  We have been to Ecuador 5 times and the Galapagos 3 times (before current issues in Guayaquil). We love it and would certainly go back.  But Guayaquil was really sketchy last time we were there in 2021.  We walked around some during the day, and it felt ok.  I am fluent in Spanish so that helped.  But at night, the area around OroVerde Hotel was downright scary with drug dealers and prostitution on every corner.  

[RyanJCanada]

Day 13

 

A leisurely start to the day – up at 6:45 am for another delicious breakfast, having just arrived at Punta Mangle at Isle Fernandina.

 

I switched it up a bit this morning, adding in some toast, salmon and cream cheese to my usual eggs-and-sausaage:

My wife and kids had to rush off for their Zodiac tour, but my morning was a bit more leisurely – I had an extra 15 minutes before the start of my kayak trip. No extra coffee, though, again because of the kayak trip – the guides on our trip to Greenland recommended going into that slightly parched, and I think that’s sound advice. (Though a bit trickier to balance out in the warmer climes.)

 

The prep was simpler this time around – no bulky drysuit to put on, just a bathing suit, T-shirt, and a guide-issued lifejacket. (A regular one, not the compact models they use for Zodiac cruises.) Then we were loaded into the Zodiac and headed off for our start point.

There were no other singletons by the time we set off, so I was left to wonder how this would work. Would they pair me with a guide? Everyone started to load in, but the guide asked me to hang back a bit. I guess I’d have to wait and see.

 

The process for getting into a kayak via Zodiac is relatively straightforward – two guides bring the kayak alongside the Zodiac, and then the passengers slide their feet in one at a time, keeping their weight over the cockpit, staying low and easing themselves inside. Simple – but not necessarily easy. Thankfully, everyone managed it without incident.

 

At this point I was asked whether I’d prefer to go with a guide or go on my own. “Whatever is easiest for you,” I replied. And that’s how I ended up solo-kayaking in the Galapagos:

 

It was completely different from kayaking in Greenland – whereas before we were surrounded by icebergs and pack ice, here the emphasis was deservedly on the wildlife. What’s more, we were shallow – to the point where I scraped the bottom on several occasions. (Though I never did managed to beach myself.)

 

First, we came across a huge number of marine iguanas:

And quite a few sea lions:

Cheeky bugger, headed for my rudder:

A group of flightless cormorants next to a pelican:

And even a frigate bird with a fresh kill, being chased by a group of pelicans:

Harried to the point of exhaustion, it eventually dropped its prize.

 

All-in-all, we were out for almost two hours, and kayaking for roughly an hour and a half. It was a good length of time – not too long, not too short. But deeply memorable:

One of our group did see a Galapagos penguin swimming nearby, though I sadly missed it. I tried not to be disappointed – Galapagos penguins are high on my list of animals I’d like to see this trip, but you could drive yourself mad comparing your animal sightings to those of other members of your group. “Comparison is the thief of joy,” it’s been said – and that is doubly true on a Galapagos cruise.

 

I repeated this to myself when my wife and kids returned from their Zodiac cruise having also seen Galapagos penguins swimming in the water. We would try again later this afternoon, and my fingers were firmly crossed that I too would see this rare and elusive bird.

One of our guides had said, “The Galapagos is the only place where you can find a penguin next to a cactus.” It seems ridiculous to even imagine, but after being here only a few short days I can now imagine it.

 

And… I’d also like to see it.

 

But there wasn’t much time to ruminate on might-have-beens – it was time to go deep sea snorkelling again.

 

It was colder and murkier this morning – perhaps 19 Celsius in the water, though warmer amidst the reefs and at the very top layer of the ocean. Warm enough to make a go of it, though perhaps not for the full 45 minute trip.

 

With my GoPro exhausted from the kayaking trip, I elected to instead borrow my son’s underwater camera. So we have more than teasers available this time around, starting with marine iguanas eating under water:

 

 

And followed by Pacific sea turtles:

 

Not to mention schools of colourful fish:

Along with a range of starfish:

Cold and tired as we were, we got out roughly 5 minutes before the tour ended – at which point our group promptly saw wingless cormorants diving after fish. But we didn’t mind missing that – seeing the marine iguanas underwater was a true highlight.

 

Back to the Origin to change for lunch at Restaurant:

I tried the shrimp with rice noodles:

While my daughter had a salami pizza:

Artfully shot to hide the fact that I can never remember to take a photo before we start eating

 

And for dessert, both the Alfajor and the wet chocolate cake:

I was just about ready to put my head down for a nap when a call came over the ships’ PA system – whales had been spotted, and the ship was diverting to get a closer look.

 

We spotted some dolphin fins:

As well as a rarer find, a blue whale:

There was another whale spotted too, but difficult to tell whether it’s a fin whale or something very similar.

 

I finally put my head down for a quick nap, and then it was time for a Zodiac cruise around the mangroves and rocky shoreline of Punta Moreno on the Isle of Isabella.

A blue heron in its nest:

A marble ray lurking beneath the surface:

And… penguins!

Plus iguanas:

But more importantly… penguins!

But soon our Zodiac cruise came to an end, and it was time to head back to the Origin:

We settled down for our lesson on Darwin (fascinating, and very entertaining), which was made all the better with a capairinha:

More good news from the briefing – we’d be heading to the Isle of Santa Cruz tomorrow, and we’d get the chance to see a wide range of Galapagos tortoises. But as we’d no longer be sheltered by the islands, and the seas were expected to get rough.

 

We then went off to the Grill for dinner:

We were glad for the forewarning as the swells began to build. It was rough, but not as bad as what we’d experienced in the North Atlantic on our way to Iceland, or heading on to Greenland.

 

I started with both the shrimp roll and the mushrooms ajillo:

Followed by the chicken Francese:

And finished with apple croquette:

All truly delicious, though the apple croquette really stole the show.

 

It has been another busy day, so it was time for a few drinks indoors – too cold and too wavy to enjoy our balcony for once – and then time for bed.

Edited July 11 by RyanJCanada
Spacing issue

[RyanJCanada]

Tomorrow’s Chronicle:

 

[liptastic]

Thanks for another wonderful live thread. Your daily updates from the very start are a must read and excellent. This looks an amazing experience. Thanks for taking us all along. Best wishes to you and your family, Jean. 

[Ciaranaman]

What a great day!  Whales and penguins - the best!

~Bernadette

[highplanesdrifters]

On 7/10/2024 at 7:36 AM, Port Power said:

I cannot reconcile having to wear a wetsuit when snorkelling at that latitude

 

Although there are slight seasonal variations,  the Humbolt Current brings up water from the south and keeps the waters chilly year round.

 

 

 

[jpalbny]

Thanks HPD. It's not the latitude, it's the water currents.

[highplanesdrifters]

37 minutes ago, jpalbny said:

Thanks HPD. It's not the latitude, it's the water currents.

 

Mini hijack, sorry @RyanJCanada

Interesting bit.

We were in Arica, Chile a few years ago.  Its a beach town and the water is a bit warmer . Why? No answers to be had on the ship. A little research - take a look at the map.  Although The Humbolt Current does pass by, the inlet allows the water to heat up enough for some fun.

Fascinating place.  It is is also a free port for Boliva and a jump off for Atacama Desert.  JP, Not sure if you were there on your trip.

 

 

 

 

[RyanJCanada]

Bag tags have arrived… sad…