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Royal Caribbean Cruisers -- How Are Things Where You Are? (was "Routine" ​ 😁 ​day in lockdown... how was yours?)


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Just now, xpcdoojk said:

Our bill is determined by April and October usage by the city.  

 

Many cities and water operators are installing wireless meters on gas, water and sewer usage.  Cheaper to just drive by and have the meter read by a computer.  

 

I can’t imagine adding to the rest of that conversation.

 

All of ours have been wireless for years.

 

I like it on electric. I can see my usage in real time

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3 minutes ago, xpcdoojk said:

I think it is perfect for flying for drinking someone else’s nice wine.  Not like you have to be there a specific weekend.  

 

Good point. I'll have my girl check my calendar and get back with you

 

I'll even spring for some cashew chicken 

Edited by John&LaLa
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12 minutes ago, John&LaLa said:

 

Good point. I'll have my girl check my calendar and get back with you

 

I'll even spring for some cashew chicken 

 

Nothing better than Springfield cashew chicken.

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56 minutes ago, lenquixote66 said:

TSOTD :Abbey Road from the Beatles Collection

My TSOTD is a bright pink over-sized tank top from St. Thomas I am using as a cover up for Bathing suit.    Heading to the beach soon.     

Edited by Sunshine3601
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Tankless water heater commentary:

We have one at the house I moved into last year.  The hall bathroom used to have a huge whirlpool tub (it got torn out to put in the elevator to the basement), and I could fill that thing with piping hot water in a flash and never run out of hot water.  Lawdy, I miss that tub!


Water/sewer commentary:

Where I used to live, the sewer charge was based on your water usage on the fourth and first quarter bills, so filling a pool and watering your lawn didn't count against you for sewer usage -- they just based the sewer portion of your bill on the water you used in the off months.

 

Don't get me started on the concept that you shouldn't have to pay for water that you wasted .... let's just say that OB and I agree on that one.

 

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1 hour ago, xpcdoojk said:

I have a Rinnai, that is 18 years old this year.  I love it.  I love having unlimited hot water.  It is on Natural Gas and it is far more efficient than the tanked heater we replaced.  Since we typically don’t use all that much water as a family of two, I expect our gas usage to be at least 30% less.  I can’t think of any disadvantage.  

 

JC

I was going to do it when my previous tank heater failed but I had not done any research at the time and needed a replacement fast so put in another tank. But if (when) this one goes I will most likely make the conversion.

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10 minutes ago, Ocean Boy said:

I was going to do it when my previous tank heater failed but I had not done any research at the time and needed a replacement fast so put in another tank. But if (when) this one goes I will most likely make the conversion.

Same here , and cost to install was going to be a few thousand more. 

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25 minutes ago, Ocean Boy said:

I was going to do it when my previous tank heater failed but I had not done any research at the time and needed a replacement fast so put in another tank. But if (when) this one goes I will most likely make the conversion.

Where we live in the country, we don’t have access to natural gas.  Does anyone have experience with the electric tankless ones?  Our house (and the water heater) is 13 years old.  Luckily in the basement with a drain.  I also got an alarm that blares if it detects water.

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3 minutes ago, ATG said:

Where we live in the country, we don’t have access to natural gas.  Does anyone have experience with the electric tankless ones?  Our house (and the water heater) is 13 years old.  Luckily in the basement with a drain.  I also got an alarm that blares if it detects water.


I'd recommend propane (LP) gas rather than electric for a tankless water heater.

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29 minutes ago, ATG said:

Where we live in the country, we don’t have access to natural gas.  Does anyone have experience with the electric tankless ones?  Our house (and the water heater) is 13 years old.  Luckily in the basement with a drain.  I also got an alarm that blares if it detects water.

 

We don't have natural gas here.  We have a large propane tank buried in our yard.  Our tankless heater runs on propane, although it needs electricity also for the electronics to work.  

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37 minutes ago, ATG said:

Where we live in the country, we don’t have access to natural gas.  Does anyone have experience with the electric tankless ones?  Our house (and the water heater) is 13 years old.  Luckily in the basement with a drain.  I also got an alarm that blares if it detects water.

Can't help. We have natural gas service.

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4 minutes ago, bobmacliberty said:

 

We don't have natural gas here.  We have a large propane tank buried in our yard.  Our tankless heater runs on propane, although it needs electricity also for the electronics to work.  

Just like with a gas furnace and hot water tank. When the power goes off you still loose your heat and hot water. The gas fireplace will still throws off some heat but not like when there is power for its blower to work.

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28 minutes ago, Coralc said:

Oh. Are they yours? Do you have a hutch somewhere for them? 

They look real but were specially made with crushed granite and resin.

We have  had pet rabbit's in the past as well as cats and dogs.

Edited by grapau27
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16 hours ago, Vibe said:

Sometimes the pipe for the drain gets clogged causing the drain float to rise turning off the switch until it starts draining again and the float goes back down. Using a shop vac to suck out the end of the pipe outside by the compressor will usually clear it.

 

You win Cruise Critic today (yesterday).  Or at least you would have won if I had listened to you.  That was exactly our problem.  For those who don't understand what @Vibe is talking about, the air handling unit (the blower that moves air throughout the house where your air filter is located) has a drain line to keep condensation out of the system.  If the drain line gets plugged, condensation will back up in the line.  There's a little chamber near the top of the drain line with a float switch in it.  If condensation backs up enough to cause the float switch to rise, it sends a signal to shut off the system so that you aren't blowing condensate through your ductwork.  When the switch gets tripped, there will be no power on the Rc wire at the thermostat.  When the condensation slowly drains, the float eventually drops and the system turns on again. 

 

As @Vibe said, my A/C guy hooked up a shop vac to the end of the drain line to suck out the water and the slime/gunk in the line that was causing it to drain slowly.  It was clogged enough that he had to also blast the line with compressed air on the other end to push to clog through.  We are no set up for twice a year service checks which include cleaning the condensation drain.  Costs us $165/year for two system checks/cleanings per year.  Good peace of mind.

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16 minutes ago, Ocean Boy said:

Just like with a gas furnace and hot water tank. When the power goes off you still loose your heat and hot water. The gas fireplace will still throws off some heat but not like when there is power for its blower to work.

Our previous house near Atlanta had natural gas for heating and hot water.  One bad ice storm we lost power for 3 days.  The only warm room was the bathroom where we kept the bathtub filled with hot water.  That and the gas fireplace meant we didn’t have to go to a hotel.  We cooked on the outdoor grill.

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16 minutes ago, bobmacliberty said:

 

You win Cruise Critic today (yesterday).  Or at least you would have won if I had listened to you.  That was exactly our problem.  For those who don't understand what @Vibe is talking about, the air handling unit (the blower that moves air throughout the house where your air filter is located) has a drain line to keep condensation out of the system.  If the drain line gets plugged, condensation will back up in the line.  There's a little chamber near the top of the drain line with a float switch in it.  If condensation backs up enough to cause the float switch to rise, it sends a signal to shut off the system so that you aren't blowing condensate through your ductwork.  When the switch gets tripped, there will be no power on the Rc wire at the thermostat.  When the condensation slowly drains, the float eventually drops and the system turns on again. 

 

As @Vibe said, my A/C guy hooked up a shop vac to the end of the drain line to suck out the water and the slime/gunk in the line that was causing it to drain slowly.  It was clogged enough that he had to also blast the line with compressed air on the other end to push to clog through.  We are no set up for twice a year service checks which include cleaning the condensation drain.  Costs us $165/year for two system checks/cleanings per year.  Good peace of mind.

Is your air handler in the attic? That is usually the set up for attic units.

Our air handlers are in the basement, if the line going outside is clogged ours would just overflow on to the basement floor and not turn off the AC unit.

We do have a little condensation pump for each handler that pumps the water up one flight to the outside.

 

Your drain is gravity fed and more likely to clog with dirt and grime. When our condensation pumps come on the water comes out with a good amount of pressure from the pumps.

Edited by Jimbo
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28 minutes ago, Jimbo said:

Is your air handler in the attic? That is usually the set up for attic units.

Our air handlers are in the basement, if the line going outside is clogged ours would just overflow on to the basement floor and not turn off the AC unit.

We do have a little condensation pump for each handler that pumps the water up one flight to the outside.

 

Your drain is gravity fed and more likely to clog with dirt and grime. When our condensation pumps come on the water comes out with a good amount of pressure from the pumps.

 

Our AHU is on the main (only) floor of the house, in a little closet off of our laundry room.  The condensate drain is gravity fed.

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