Whisper Barcelona-Athens, 18-30 July 2019

[rosepark]

10 minutes ago, Observer said:

 

I am a great Mary Beard fan and was not aware that she had made any recent programs on Rome or Pompei.  Some quick web searching turned up nothing helpful.  Do you know whether this program consisted of new material or was a (summer?) rerun?   Thanks.

 

BTW: I learned today that Prof Beard debated Boris Johnson several years ago on Rome vs Greece, moderated by Andrew Marr.  It should be a lively event to watch on YouTube.

I think it is a repeat - Mary Beard's Ultimate Empire, I just hadn't seen it before. ~sorry to have got your hopes up.

Rp

 

[Tothesunset]

Hands up anyone who knows what, where or who Syracusa is? Yeah, me neither. So when we arrived at this port in Sicily today we had no expectations at all. Did the usual thing of staying aboard in the morning to get the ship almost to ourselves while most passengers were on excursions, had lunch then set off to explore. 

 

Well let me tell you, this is a quite charming town - at least the part we explored. The old area of Syracusa is the island of Ostigia reached by a bridge across the very narrow strait, maybe a 5-minute walk from the ship. Walking to the end of the island is about 2 miles and takes in the rather splendid Piazza del Duomo before depositing you at a Fort-like structure which although shown is, curiously, unnamed on my Google map image. All this by way of quaint streets and few tourists. 

 

The stroll back along the waterfront marina area through an avenue of trees really is quite delightful. Even in the oppressive heat. 

 

No pictures, of course, they need to wait until tomorrow when we get the 4g phone signal back in Malta. The ship's WiFi has been the source of much irritation. It's really slow but hasn't actually disappeared at any time that we know of. 

 

Although we had a reservation at The Grill we cancelled it because it's just too hot out there so I am not going to get photos of that menu. Sorry. Dinner in the MDR was as good as ever and I repeat that the front of house staff on this voyage have been marvellous. 

 

Not sure we will be getting off tomorrow. One of our sons lived in Malta from 3 years so we know it very well. Valletta is very interesting but when you've been there many times - not so much. I expect those that do the tours will find much to admire in the capital and also around the islands. 

 

This is tranquility base saying goodnight. 

[Silver Spectre]

1 hour ago, Tothesunset said:

 

This is tranquility base saying goodnight. 

That made GG smile.

 

11pm and it’s still 30c here. Enjoy Malta and hope the Whisper’s a/c is working well.

[Tothesunset]

Piazza del Duomo:

 

 

The Fort thing:

 

 

The harbourside avenue:

 

 

Who wouldn't want to live behind a doorway like this:

 

 

Or this:

 

 

A very hot person beside a very cool ship:

 

[Tothesunset]

Why is it that on a sea day we wake up early yet if we need to get an excursion  we oversleep and have to rush? Yesterday was Malta, tomorrow is Hydra and today is a sea day - yippee! No photos for the usual reason - I promise not to mention the achingly slow WiFi in this post. Damn. 

 

Valletta is a pretty spectacular place, most particularly it has an impressive natural harbour enhanced by the city's walls and fortifications that rise from the shoreside. There's no finer-looking harbour - bigger? Yes. Busier? Yes. More iconic? Indeed - but none finer. 

 

Didn't do much other than stroll into Valletta and back to the ship via the lift from the dockside to Upper Barraka Gardens (photos tomorrow). Malta has benefitted from significant EU investment which has not only improved the Islands' infrastructure and boosted its economic performance but has also partially-funded the lift which saves a long climb in the heat and that's much more important. 

 

Malta has the dubious distinction of having Europe's most obese population - that's quite something, beating the UK into second place. It also has a government heavily influenced by the RC Church (although that influence is waning as the nation prospers) and has leaders that are never far from controversy. It's also got a complicated past.  Our son lived there for 3 years and couldn't wait to get away. The orthodox, conservative, insular society gets a bit suffocating. 

 

Most people from the ship seemed to be out on tour in the morning leaving us to enjoy our private yacht experience. Pictures tomorrow when we have 4g rather than glacial WiFi. I did it again, didn't I? 

 

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bed. The shorthand version of the perfect day. 

[spinnaker2]

 

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bed. The shorthand version of the perfect day. 

 

Yes, so true! I would add nap and a few glasses of vino and a view of the sea...

[Lois R]

Good morning...…...catching up here.…...we were in Siracusa last summer! And I enjoyed it as well

Great photos!!!

[MrToblerone]

I am enjoying reading your trip report ,we are hoping to do another Med cruise next year after our first river cruise recently.

[les37b]

We had a few days away in Sicily in February to Catania and took the train to Syracusa. I noticed the "fort thingy" photo.... Did you pass the fountain in a big square with horses and fish squirting?  We had to pass that to get to the fort thingy! 

 

Did you see the 3 cows in Valletta?

[Tothesunset]

22 minutes ago, les37b said:

We had a few days away in Sicily in February to Catania and took the train to Syracusa. I noticed the "fort thingy" photo.... Did you pass the fountain in a big square with horses and fish squirting?  We had to pass that to get to the fort thingy! 

 

Did you see the 3 cows in Valletta?

 

 

 

Not sure what you mean by the 3 cows in Valletta but there were some chunky tourists that would fit the bill. 

Edited July 28, 2019 by Tothesunset

[Tothesunset]

18 minutes ago, les37b said:

 

Don't know where that box came from but can't delete it. 

 

Upper Barraka Gardens and lift:

 

View of harbour from gardens:

 

 

Entrance to Mdina:

 

[Master Echo]

Hi TTS 

 

So enjoying your reports of your adventures, which obviously brings back many personal memories.

 

Madame had to smile at one of your pictures from Pompeii.  When she first went there back in the 60s with her mother, neither were allowed to enter the building where the specialities of the women who worked inside were displayed on the walls to assist clients to make their choices.  A subsequent visit in more enlightened times enabled her to see how such practices compared with those of the present day, to Sir's amusement.

 

Kindest regards,

 

Master Echo

 

 

[les37b]

10 hours ago, Tothesunset said:

Upper Barraka Gardens and lift:

 

 

Impressed you found the lift. We walked the scenic route from the Cruise terminal all the way up the hills to find the lift entrance at the top. It was on that walk we saw the 3 cows...

 

 

 

Probably not quite what you expected! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 28, 2019 by les37b

[Tothesunset]

Doesn't getting back to real life really intrude?  9 days ago we got back, but I digress.

 

I think I left you in Malta as we headed to Hydra.  Our first time in Greece.  Never heard of Hydra - at least not the island - and I expect SS weren't really taking us to a multi-headed serpent.  But you never know.  It's an odd choice of destination because there didn't seem to be a whole lot there.  A pretty little harbour, expensive souvenir shops (it's the souvenirs that are expensive, I've know idea what the shops go for) and. em, nothing really.  There are no motorised vehicles on the island other than the ambulance and the traditional form of transport is the donkey.  Thoughtless tourists can pay silly money to ride one for a while before the donkey returns to its position in the heat of the direct sun where it spends the day.  If you are part of that then shame on you:

 

[Tothesunset]

So having despatched Hydra to the miscellaneous section of the file entitled Where was that again? the final port of call sees us in Santorini which is somewhere I actually had heard of.  Even more, was excited to visit.  We thought it wise to take the ship's tour which included a trip up the side of a dormant volcano, Oia village and then a couple of hours on the beach.  That doesn't sound too shabby at all, does it?

 

I quite enjoyed the time on the coach, mostly 'cos it was air-conned but also because of the very splendid scenery.  Until we got to Oia.  You know, the place with the white buildings, blue roofs as seen in any publication, advert or movie that has any direct or even tangential connection with Greece.  Well let me tell you, I can see why this became an iconic sight but it's utterly ruined by the overwhelming number of tourists.  Do not go there.  Google Oia, Santorini click on images and be content to get the view without the needless scrimmage.  I did manage to get a couple of photos but only by clearing the tourist masses out of the way with a 50 cal machine gun (not really, just wishful thinking).

 

 

The 2 hours on the beach was lovely, though.  While the sand might be black volcanic stuff, it's very soft and we had a bed, parasol and cooling breeze.  Super.

 

 

[Tothesunset]

At last, the end is near and I must face the final posting.  What do you mean, 'bout time too?

 

We docked at Piraeus on schedule and had booked the tour of the Acropolis with Airport transfer.  The Acropolis being one of those iconic images that is implanted in everyone's mind I was again thinking that we could be heading for a bit of an anti-climax here.  Boy, was I wrong.  

 

 

If anyone asked me about the history of the place they would be rewarded with a blank stare and a simpleton's grin.  But who cares when it's this spectacular.  It really, really is astonishing.  OK so the entrance and walk up was very busy and, yes, it was hot, but the crowds then spread out somewhat and there was plenty of room to stroll unhindered.  There's even a free set of restrooms and some drinking fountains.  Very civilised, these Ancient Greeks.

 

Actually this isn't the last posting because I need to tell you about the journey home.  You don't need to read about it but I'll get it off my chest later anyway.  It involves much wasted time, petty rules and a damning review of Heathrow (which, to be fair, is the only sort of review it should ever get).

[Tothesunset]

The journey home, then.  There were 2 choices of flight back: 15.30 and 19.55.  On the grounds that Athenian traffic can be biblically awful we were concerned that we could miss the 15.30.  Hah!  We actually got the airport at 1300  (Or 1 pm in fahrenheit).  So I went to the BA desk to ask if we could get seats on the 15.30.  ''Oh, yes, we have lots of seats''.  Unless you had a reward booking in which case you have to stick with what you've booked or pay about a bazillion Euros to change.

 

So 4.5 hours later we joined the head of the queue to drop off the bags.  Some places are really pleasant places to wile away a few hours.  Athens airport is not one of those places.  Very few seats, hot, stupidly expensive cafes and a small intercontinental expedition to find the restrooms.  I mean, really, are airports designed just to sap the last vestige of the human spirit.  How can it be possible to design spaces that are so inimical to the human existence.

 

Of course the flight was delayed but at least we got to spend the time in the Emirates lounge (long story; don't ask).  Well, not so much a lounge as a sauna with tables.  Curiously one of the snacks on offer was Greek Yoghurt.  You'd think, in Athens, it would be called yoghurt.

 

The plane was only half an hour late and picked up 15 minutes of that on the flight which was immediately cancelled out by parking up at a coaching stand which I'm not even sure was in the same time zone.  God, it took forever to get to terminal 5.

 

Heathrow designers clearly looked at the Athens airport and thought ''Amateurs - we can make a much worse airport than that.''  If you fly out of one terminal and into another but have used the Heathrow long stay car park things get awfully complicated.  We had parked at Terminal 2 and 3 long stay so went to get a taxi to take us to the car park.  Oh no. '' Not allowed to drop off there mate.  I can take you to terminal 2 and you get the shuttle bus but there's roadworks and it will take forever - quicker to get the free train shuttle from 5 to 2''

 

So we went to get the free shuttle.  A short walk of about 100 miles with all the luggage.  At this point it's 10.30 and we have to leave the car park by midnight or pay for another full day.  You'll recognise my congenital inability to part with cash so the race was on.  What they don't tell you is that when you get off the shuttle at 2 it's at least - and I'm not exaggerating now - a mile to the shuttle bus area where there are 15 stops, none of which are indicated so you then have to spend another 10 minutes looking at the tiny close-printed sign at each stop to find the one you need.  Which is, of course, the last one you get to - in our case just as the bus was pulling away.  Next one in 8 minutes but it was now 11.25 and they stop running at 11.30.  I know!

 

We got the final shuttle and were into the car and out of the car park at 4 minutes to midnight.  So screw you, Heathrow, you didn't get that £16.50 overstay charge.  One other little tip - if, like us, you want to get from the long stay car park to the M25 DO NOT expect any road signage for the first couple of miles, just enjoy the lottery of wondering where the hell you might be (as it happens we know the area well but I'm sure I saw a Ford Escort at one roundabout that was there 3 months ago when last we came through).

 

Mind you, at that time of night the 110 miles home passed much more quickly.

 

Th-th-th-that's all folks.

[mysty]

50 minutes ago, Tothesunset said:

The journey home, then.  .......

Th-th-th-that's all folks.

TTS, you are a gifted story-teller!  Thanks for the entertaining reports you provided.  It has been a treat!

[Master Echo]

Dear TTS

 

Many thanks for your consistently informative and amusing posts, and lovely photos.  I know from experience how time consuming it all is!! 

 

I must concur with you regarding Hydra, it appears to be purely a tourist haunt, but that begs the question how do the locals manage.  Unless of course there is a "local" price which differs substantially from that offered to tourists.

 

I am so pleased at your comments on Santorini.  I was fortunate to go there in the 60s, and despite the numerous times since, when the ship has visited again, I have used is as a "sea day".  On my last visit, see 'Echo-ing' round the Mediterranean on the Shadow, I gave an up to date state of affairs from returning passengers.  It is such a shame as it is really is a beautiful place, ruined unfortunately by too many of "us"!  Apparently they have even taken away all artifacts from Akrotiri, and relocated them to Athens!.

 

Thanks again

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo  

[JohnGinPBG]

On 8/8/2019 at 8:23 AM, Tothesunset said:

Well let me tell you, I can see why this became an iconic sight but it's utterly ruined by the overwhelming number of tourists.  Do not go there. 

 

21 hours ago, Master Echo said:

It is such a shame as it is really is a beautiful place, ruined unfortunately by too many of "us"! 

 

I've always thought it was impossible for a first-and-only-time visitor to Santorini not to go to Oia, but you two are scaring me off. We'll be there on October 24 of the Spirit, but so will 10,000+ other cruisers. The idea of a human scrum just to get a few photos does not appeal to us. So I'm on the verge of cancelling our Oia tour and switching to the volcano hike, where we'll get views of Santorini from afar.

 

I'm wondering if it's possible to get some nice views of Oia from the ship at sunrise or sunset, which is when we sail in and out. My zoom lens should be able to get some good shots.

 

TTS, you're a gifted humorist. By the way, we fly though Heathrow on our way home. I'll toast you in the BA lounge and give thanks for only having to experience it for 3 hours.

[Tothesunset]

Thank you for your kind words. 

 

As long as you are in the lounge at LHR you will escape all the small irritations that add up to a thoroughly depressing experience. 

 

As for Oia, I suppose we should be grateful for having had the privilege of visiting but would never go there again - at least not without a gun to my head. We saw Oia at the sail-in but I'm not sure the iconic view as seen in magazines etc is visible from the ship. 

 

I'd hate to sway you one way or the other and I should really add some small print to the effect that all opinions expressed are solely those of the management who take no responsibility for the actions anyone takes as a result of these postings. 

 

Whatever you decide, have a great trip. 

[Stumblefoot]

54 minutes ago, JohnGinPBG said:

I've always thought it was impossible for a first-and-only-time visitor to Santorini not to go to Oia, but you two are scaring me off.

Don’t be scared off.  Oia is awesome.  You don’t need a tour either.  Just grab a cab and walk at your leisure.  Best gyro of my life was had Oia, as well as some of the most beautiful fresh fish too.  Oh, and the vistas are stunning too.

[JohnGinPBG]

25 minutes ago, Tothesunset said:

I'd hate to sway you one way or the other and I should really add some small print to the effect that all opinions expressed are solely those of the management who take no responsibility for the actions anyone takes as a result of these postings.

 

Disclaimer noted.

[les37b]

 

Glad the Heathrow gremlins didnt get you... and you fared better than we did on our journey home from our last!

 

Thanks for the commentary..... great as always....

[Daveywavey70]

I was very lucky when I visited Santorini in April. Even though ours was the only ship in port that day and it wasn’t yet season, it was packed. The line for the cable car was very long. I went on the boat trip to Oia for €25. No waiting. Oia itself was absolutely stunning and in my view well worth braving the crowds. Not sure if I would with 10000 passengers in port though. The Chinese visitors especially were unbelievably rude, clambering onto people’s roofs and going into their gardens to take a ridiculous amount of photos. My patience was at times tested. I’m Glad I ticked it off the list though.