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Whisper Barcelona-Athens, 18-30 July 2019


Tothesunset
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31 minutes ago, rosepark said:

33 degrees? TTS- you wuss. It’s going to be 38 here in the Smoke on Thursday.  The Tube is going to be such fun!!

Rp

 

Surely not. By then Boris will have an air-conditioned hypertrain operating for every citizen. 

 

Used to get to that temperature on the Shankill - at least until the petrol bombs burned out. 

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Thanks for this great ongoing report! We decided (not without trepidation, I must admit) to switch onto a Mediterranean cruise out of Barcelona on the Spirit for next June after our Cuba dreams were ended, and I am enjoying both remembering previous visits to this part of the world and looking forward to future ones. My husband and I spent a week staying on the Amalfi coast as part of our honeymoon in 2008 and it is really a lovely region. 

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In answer to a (much) earlier post, the Captain is Chavdar Georgiev (you've no idea how much trouble that caused my spellchecker) and the CD Adam Wright. 

 

On the question of crew, this might well be the best crew we have sailed with. Which is not to say that we have had any difficulties previously - we haven't - it's just that this crew seem indefinably more gelled or something. 

 

I'm afraid not all the passengers are such a pleasure to be with. There's a few self-entitled ubermenschen (at least in their own minds) , a couple of drunks (aren't there always?) and a very few individuals that evolution seems to have forgotten. However, of course, most of the guests are just folk like you and me who want to enjoy the company of others and have a great trip and I salute us one and all. 

 

Oh, Rp - as far as I can make out I'm the only one on board from Norn Iron. 

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I wish I could join you, TTS. We are off to Llandudno next week- not quite the same ambiance but hopefully fewer self aggrandising gits than you are having to put up with. 

Did they show anything of the Open on board at the weekend? Royal Portrush did a grand job by all accounts. 

Rp

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Thanks so much TTS  for all the pics! It looks very nice, can’t wait to get on board, unfortunately it will be a very long wait.😔. The menu  for the MDR , I assume , looks like we should have plenty of great options to choose from , mouth is watering just looking at it! 

 

Once again i cant thank you enough for all your posts. Will continue to follow your adventure along with the others. 

 

P.s if it’s any consolation, our weather in the states has been pretty miserable too! 100+ degrees for almost 4 days. Thank goodness you are on the cruise and not in a European hotel, I hear AC is not always available in hotels.....

 

enjoy! 

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Just noticed you listed Adam Wright as CD.....

 

Something I never found out but always curious.... And probably something he would remember.

 

About 3 or 4 years ago on the Wind, we had an overnight in Monaco. Manfredi had Prince Albert on board (I remember walking the red carpet well when we got back from the casino!)..... We saw Eddie Jordon arrive the same time we did and we know there were lots of drivers on for Dinner in La Champagne.

 

Could you ask if he remembers any of the other drivers attending?

 

It was all very secretive at the time! 

 

 

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Today's report will be photo-free thanks to the low WiFi upload speed. 

 

Pompeii was today's goal, as it also seemed to be for every other human being in the Northern Hemisphere. By crikey, it was busy. Very hot too - 38 degrees and quite humid again but the 2 hrs on the ground passed quickly. And isn't Pompeii just wonderful? It seems strange to use that adjective to describe the result of such a natural disaster but it is, it's wonderful. 

 

Often places that I've always longed to visit have been a bit underwhelming. Tahiti? It's OK. Angkor Wat - impressive but not totally Wow. On the other hand we happen on little gems that deserve better - Peterborough Cathedral (go there now), the North Dakota plains, Greenwich Ct (about as perfect a little town as you could imagine). So I was hoping Pompeii was going to be arresting but prepared to be disappointed. Man, it's breathtaking. The excavations alone are a work of genius but the historical context, the looming presence of Vesuvius and the sense of a 2000-year-old city so well preserved as if in amber just stuns. Even the appalling crowds can't ruin that.

 

Again we took the ship's tour and just as well we did. The appalling traffic got us back to the ship half an hour after it was due to leave. Not something we would want to happen on a private tour. 60 hot and weary passengers descended on Terrazza like a wolf on the fold and cleared out the buffet. Very good of them to keep it open for an extra hour. 

 

Venetian party tonight. We always go, mainly to be shocked by the number of days some people have achieved. Are they homeless? Then it will be the MDR for dinner. The food's been excellent so far in all venues. 

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If you liked Pompeii, go to Herculaneum next time, unless you have already been. I agree that Pompeii is magnificent, and it does seem odd to refer to site of death and destruction in that manner, but Herculaneum-much smaller, more compact  and more immediate -human and so very poignant. We went by train from one of the ports and were able to avoid traffic.

Glad the ship waited for you, there would have been a mutiny on the board if you had been forced to leave us dangling!

Rp

 

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3 hours ago, Tothesunset said:

On the other hand we happen on little gems that deserve better - Peterborough Cathedral (go there now), the North Dakota plains, Greenwich Ct (about as perfect a little town as you could imagine). So I was hoping Pompeii was going to be arresting but prepared to be disappointed. Man, it's breathtaking.

2 hours ago, rosepark said:

If you liked Pompeii, go to Herculaneum next time, unless you have already been.

 

TTS,

 

Thoroughly enjoying your posts about your voyage!  As someone who lives relatively close to the North Dakota plains, I have to ask, what brought you to that neck of the woods from the UK?  And, what in pray tell was it about them that so captivated you more so than Angkor Wat?

Lastly, great advice by Rp.  During our last Silversea visit to Sorrento, we spent several hours one morning at Herculaneum with a private guide and virtually had the entire place to ourselves.  I doubt we saw more than two dozen people the entire time.  As remarkable as Pompeii is, Herculaneum will knock your socks off, especially when you consider where the Gulf of Naples was at that time.

 

Looking forward to your next port!

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Agree, Herculaneum is fun; it's a seaside resort town while Pompeii is a big city. But the trick to Pompeii is to arrive late. And start by wandering the outskirts. You will have it almost to yourself.

 

That's what we did a few years back from Sorrento. We got the first tender off the ship and took the Circumvesuviana train which cost a few Euros each. We rode to Herculaneum first, walked there, and got in relatively early. It started filling up later but the first hour or so was nearly private. 

 

Then we made a long lunch stop, and took the train partway back, jumping off at Pompeii around 3PM. The big tour groups were heading out already, so we went in. It was so empty in places, it was spooky! We had visited before with a ship's tour, but this second visit was much more enjoyable!

 

As closing time approached, even the popular sites got empty. We left around closing time, and took the train back to Sorrento and the ship. So, the timing avoids crowds and the train avoids traffic. Loved it.

 

Enjoying your TR - looking forward to pics when upload speed allows!

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1 hour ago, Stumblefoot said:

As someone who lives relatively close to the North Dakota plains, I have to ask, what brought you to that neck of the woods from the UK?  And, what in pray tell was it about them that so captivated you more so than Angkor Wat?

I think it's largely about expectation. I had no sense of Angkor Wat as a living, breathing entity and while the achievement of the Khmer civilisation is astonishing for its time I just couldn't get a handle on the history. Yes, the Wats are remarkable but didn't move me. 

 

I'm something of a fan of Roman history, most particularly of the Claudian dynasty from Augustus through to Nero, an era when Pompeii was at its most active. So to see a Roman city frozen in time at more or less that period was fascinating - not just the obvious things like the forum or whatever but the little things like the stepping stones in the roads, the nature of the shops, houses and so on. I could imagine life there, the language, smells festivities etc. Sometimes something just clicks to make a place special. 

 

As for the North Dakota plains. We did a road trip 3 years ago starting and ending in Chicago taking in Illinois, Wisconsin, the Dakotas and Iowa. As we drove from Fargo to Pierre we found ourselves on a long stretch of road without having seen another living soul for miles. We stopped at the roadside one place where there were no people, no breeze, nothing but open plain in all directions. But most of all there was a complete absence of sound. Not just quiet but no sound whatsoever. When you come from Europe that just never happens. The barrenness is quite awesome. Almost elemental. 

 

Sometimes there's the exceptional to be found where one least expects it. 

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So I mentioned a few days ago about some of our shipmates who play it fast and loose with the dress code. Nothing's changed. It's not going ruin my life but to me it's just plain bad manners by the few. 

 

It was the Venetian Society cocktail party tonight. I can't remember the numbers but a couple of people got to free laundry, another couple to 250 nights and there were 3 couples with 250+,the highest being somewhere round 1000.  Obviously we got nothing with a paltry 201 nights but I do think we deserved something just for being jolly good people (and for knowing what formal dress is!). Excellent dinner, too. 

 

Tomorrow sees us in Syracuse, Sicily somewhere about which we know very little beyond its status as being historically important. 

 

Anyway, 2 tired British Islanders are off to sleep the sleep of the righteous. 

 

Ciao. 

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24 minutes ago, Tothesunset said:

So I mentioned a few days ago about some of our shipmates who play it fast and loose with the dress code. Nothing's changed. It's not going ruin my life but to me it's just plain bad manners by the few. 

 

It was the Venetian Society cocktail party tonight. I can't remember the numbers but a couple of people got to free laundry, another couple to 250 nights and there were 3 couples with 250+,the highest being somewhere round 1000.  Obviously we got nothing with a paltry 201 nights but I do think we deserved something just for being jolly good people (and for knowing what formal dress is!). Excellent dinner, too. 

 

Tomorrow sees us in Syracuse, Sicily somewhere about which we know very little beyond its status as being historically important. 

 

Anyway, 2 tired British Islanders are off to sleep the sleep of the righteous. 

 

Ciao. 

 

Ah, Syracuse is both historically important and quite nice to visit! We enjoyed it very much on our stop there last year and have kicked around going back for a longer land stay sometime. Assuming you dock at the same spot we did, when you exit the small port area head right over the bridge to have a wander in Ortygia, the oldest (and quite charming) part of the city. There is also an archeological park a couple of miles in the other direction that is worth a visit, if for no other reason than to experience the delightfully named Ear of Dionysius. 

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TTS I am enjoying your photos and narration!

 

I agree with you about Pompeii. When we were in Costa Rica swimming in a pool heated by the volcano looming above us, which occasionally belched smoke and uttered thundering rumbles, all I could think about was Pompeii and Herculaneum. 

 

(Another site to visit in the future is Paestum, though no volcano, it likely was the mosquito that took down the population)

 

 

 

 

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Have you been to Ostia Antica, TTS? I think you would enjoy it though you have to use your imagination a lot more than at Pompeii. And you are missing Mary Beard doing one of her Roman things on BBC4, it was on last night but I exact being on the Whisper might help you get over your disappointment at missing her.

Rp

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On 7/23/2019 at 4:21 PM, Tothesunset said:

In answer to a (much) earlier post, the Captain is Chavdar Georgiev (you've no idea how much trouble that caused my spellchecker) and the CD Adam Wright. 

 

On the question of crew, this might well be the best crew we have sailed with. Which is not to say that we have had any difficulties previously - we haven't - it's just that this crew seem indefinably more gelled or something. 

 

I'm afraid not all the passengers are such a pleasure to be with. There's a few self-entitled ubermenschen (at least in their own minds) , a couple of drunks (aren't there always?) and a very few individuals that evolution seems to have forgotten. However, of course, most of the guests are just folk like you and me who want to enjoy the company of others and have a great trip and I salute us one and all. 

 

Oh, Rp - as far as I can make out I'm the only one on board from Norn Iron. 

 

Thanks for the info—those are certainly new names! I assume they will all stay on thru August? Nice to hear that you have a wonderful crew onboard.

 

 

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21 hours ago, Tothesunset said:

I think it's largely about expectation.

 

As for the North Dakota plains. We did a road trip 3 years ago starting and ending in Chicago taking in Illinois, Wisconsin, the Dakotas and Iowa. As we drove from Fargo to Pierre we found ourselves on a long stretch of road without having seen another living soul for miles. We stopped at the roadside one place where there were no people, no breeze, nothing but open plain in all directions. But most of all there was a complete absence of sound. Not just quiet but no sound whatsoever. When you come from Europe that just never happens. The barrenness is quite awesome. Almost elemental. 

 

Sometimes there's the exceptional to be found where one least expects it. 

Thanks for sharing TTS!  It's always nice understanding another's personal perspective.

 

What you experienced, with the lack of wind, is very, very rare.  Normally, the plains have what some would describe as a perpetual breeze.  And, of course, many a times it can be a gale.

 

Hope you had fun in Sicily today!  That is a destination we have not been yet.

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3 hours ago, rosepark said:

 And you are missing Mary Beard doing one of her Roman things on BBC4, it was on last night ....

Rp

 

I am a great Mary Beard fan and was not aware that she had made any recent programs on Rome or Pompei.  Some quick web searching turned up nothing helpful.  Do you know whether this program consisted of new material or was a (summer?) rerun?   Thanks.

 

BTW: I learned today that Prof Beard debated Boris Johnson several years ago on Rome vs Greece, moderated by Andrew Marr.  It should be a lively event to watch on YouTube.

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11 hours ago, Tothesunset said:

A random selection of photos from Pompeii:

 

Appreciate the nice pictures comments and follow-ups for Pompeii.  Keep it coming. Great sharing.    Brings back very good memories from visiting there and Herculaneum.  YES, a debate with Boris Johnson on Rome vs Greece would be interesting.  Doubt one would be falling asleep in boredom. 

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

 

Barcelona/Med: June 2011, with stops in Villefranche, ports near Pisa and Rome, Naples, Kotor, Venice and Dubrovnik. Great visuals with key highlights, tips, etc. Live/blog now at 248,061 views.

www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1426474

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